What makes a great dish? For some, it involves quality ingredients, meticulous planning, and preparations. But for the country’s top chefs and restaurateurs, it’s all about for whom they prepare it and the passion that goes into the preparation that make the difference. Get to know their most memorable dishes and their most memorable guests.
Claude Tayag of Bale Dutung, chef, artist, writer:
The most memorable dish I prepared was for Anthony Bourdain. It wasn’t so much because of any dish I served him (pako salad, bulanglang Kapampangan with bangus, adobong pugo, and ox-tail kare-kare) but because of his genuine appreciation of everything served him, coupled with the great conversationalist and ever-inquisitive person that he was. This was most evident when I brought him to the goat shack where he devoured the goat’s eyes and brain, drank the papaitan to the last drop, even after the cameras were long turned off. No one would do this just for show.
Gilbert Pangilinan, chef patron, Cerveseria and Kai:
My most memorable dish was US prime cowboy steak with wasabi coconut which I prepared for Manny Pacquiao.
One of my most memorable dishes was burong talangka with calamansi served like a sashimi, which we offered during Cabalen’s 14th anniversary and the blessing of our newly renovated Cabalen Restaurant in West Avenue, QC, on Aug. 8, 2000. Our guests of honor, then Vice President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo and Senator Loren Legarda, loved it.
My husband Christopher George Yatco loves burgers. And so when he celebrated his birthday last Tuesday, I prepared a five-pound Birthday Angus Burger — with candles to boot — instead of the traditional cake.
My most favorite dish is a toss-up between two fresh pasta dishes — spinach ravioli with Negros cross crab and papparadelle panuelos. It’s very difficult for me to choose one over the other. The first one is a spinach ravioli with Negros cross crab in a calamansi cream sauce, drizzled with taba ng talangka. This was inspired by a seafood ravioli I had in Venice in 1985, when I went to Italy to study Italian cuisine for the first time. After tasting the ravioli, I imagined what a crab version would taste like with my most favorite Pinoy ingredient — taba ng talangka — drizzled all over it! I served it the first time when my brother, Oye, got married to Malou Montano in 1988. (They are now the successful owners of Mamou in Serendra, and the newly opened Mamou Too! at Rockwell.) Tita Glenda Barretto of Via Mare, our mentor in the industry, catered their reception at our home in Cubao. I prepared only a fruit and cheese table under the big mango tree in the garden and this ravioli to add to her awesome spread ... my first participation at a wedding reception, ever!
The second dish is fresh pappardelle panuelos with itlog na maalat, asparagus, and truffle oil ... celebrating the famed marriage of the egg and the truffle in Italian cuisine, but carried further by the depth of flavor of the red egg yolk. This was a staple on Pepato’s menu from 2003, and was a favorite at the reception of my cousin Secretary Mar Roxas’ wedding to Korina Sanchez in 0ctober 2009.
I have always thought that these recipes were probably whispered into my ear by God in a dream, because I don’t think I could have thought them both up all on my own.
It is always a delight on my end to prepare dishes that bring smiles to the faces of my guests. Having the opportunity to serve big names and well-known personalities, important people who shape the history of our country and who comprise the who’s who in our society, I try my best to “catch” and “grasp” the favorite food of the person I concoct the dish for. Oftentimes I hit it right in the eye! And the creation becomes part of our restaurant’s story! The dishes become a bond between my guests and I, dishes that stood the test of time, dishes that build friendship beyond the confines of my restaurants.
Chef Jessie Rockwell Club is taken to be a lucky charm for Governor Vilma Santos-Recto. She comes to the restaurant whenever she’s up for negotiations on new projects and signing for contracts. “. . . because the deal gets done!” Governor Vi’s taste for food is so upscale and sophisticated, but she is a creature of habit! If she likes something, she would have it over and over! This salad that I did for her is a “must have” every time she visits. Our waiters don’t have to ask, she is sure to have her favorite soup and her salad that we call Salad ala Governor Vi.
Chef Jessie is in Rockwell Club because of the invitation of somebody who is highly respected in the Philippine business circle. He would always visit the restaurant for dinner after a super hectic grind of meetings the whole day and would always ask for something light and healthy to eat. This highly esteemed business tycoon is now our very own selfless, dedicated and hardworking Ambassador to Japan. We call his dish Ambassador Manolo Lopez Salad.
I will never forget cooking for White House executive chef Cris Comerford in Washington D.C. What a chance of a lifetime! I cooked kare-kare, lumpiang sariwa, sinigang na rock fish, mechado, and leche flan cheesecake. It was also memorable because I ran out of oxtail for the kare-kare and they were looking for more!
The most memorable dish I have served which remains an icon of Kamayan restaurant is our lechon de leche. The traditional lechon used to be the large ones, but we pioneered in serving the young suckling pig which is more tender, has less fat, and is definitely more crispy. We started cooking it in our own kitchens with tanglad leaves and when we served it with not just one, but three different sauces — the basic lechon sauce, another slightly sweeter, and the third one slightly spicier, it became our instant bestseller which no other restaurant can match in taste and availability.
I believe Kamayan’s lechon de leche has made millions of Filipinos happy and I am extremely proud to have made it a staple dish for important occasions of celebration.”
The Plaza’s signature dish is the Plaza Corned Beef. We prepare it boiled, roasted, smoked, and as pastrami. A culinary innovation developed by my dad Joe Reyes, it is now considered one of The Plaza’s premium products. It’s the favorite of Nedy Tantoco, Mario Katigbak, Mel Meer, and San Juan Mayor JV Ejercito.
Karla Reyes, business development manager, The Plaza Premium Baked Ham:
The Plaza Premium Baked Ham is, to me, the most memorable dish I have ever served and it never fails to get raves. It was a seasonal product which my late grandma Imelda Reyes would market during Christmas but now, it’s not only a special occasion ham, it’s practically an everyday fare. The Plaza Ham has become a byword. It is the center of attraction at weddings and special celebrations, and is a favorite Christmas giveaway for prosperity and for some families, a tradition. Lucy Torres swears by it. Vivian Yuchengco gives it as birthday presents to her special friends.
My most memorable dish I made was during my time in Culinary School at the Academia de Gastronomos, Madrid, Spain, in 1964. Traditionally roast stuffed chicken was deboned by slicing through the skin at the back, but since I didn’t know how to sew, I invented a method to cut the chicken and remove the bones inside without sewing, which astonished my chef instructor, Señor Jose Sarau, one of the best chefs in Spain at that time. So impressed with my creativity, ingenuity, and skill with the knife, he awarded me the gold medal, the highest honor and a feat that I will never forget. To this day, I continue to teach the technique in class on how to debone chicken without sewing to my students.
It’s balsamic beef adobo. I don’t know how, when or why I made this dish. I can no longer remember where the inspiration came from. All I know is I wanted to try to make an extremely refined version of the Pinoy classic. How could I make it extra special? I used really great quality short ribs, the balsamic vinegar made a nice caramelized color and flavor, plus the French strain, and I reduce the sauce techniques, and made it something really rich. My father never really liked any of the crazy concoctions I used to invent. Too many spices or ingredients he didn’t really like. He used to invite all his friends to try my food, but I’d have to make something simple that he’d like. When he tried this and proclaimed it the “Best Adobo in the World,” having seconds and thirds, it meant so much to me to finally feed him something he truly enjoyed! He has also proclaimed my turon the “Best Turon in the World” and that I should close my catering and open a palengke stall — “Stephanie’s Turon!”
Bali Chicken is one of the memorable dishes I have prepared. It debuted on the first episode of my television show titled Heny’s Kitchen, shot on location in Cabugao, Ilocos Sur. Ilocos Sur Vice Governor DV Savellano, a school mate from UP, was my guest. The dish was inspired by Ilocos Sur. The ingredients for it all came from the province and I dedicated it to the people of Ilocos Sur. At that time, I had not yet come up with a name for it and DV suggested “ Bali Chicken” since balikutsa, a hard pulled taffy-like sweet made from molasses and flavored with native lime (dayap), was an important ingredient in the recipe. During the shoot, he helped me prepare the dish and he made a little spiel: He mentioned that the bamboo used to secure the chicken came from Tagudin, the alambre (wire) from his house in Cabugao, the balikutsa from Santa Maria, garlic and shallots from Sinait, and salt also from Cabugao. Therefore, in the Bali Chicken recipe, four towns of Ilocos Sur were highlighted
Buddy Trinidad, owner, Park Avenue Dessert; president, Pastry Alliance of the Philippine:
I used to make this dessert called the “Health Bar” torte named after the candy bar. It was an 8x3” cake, which consisted of caramel custard, chocolate ganache, and caramel mousse wrapped in dark chocolate. It’s memorable to me because it was the favorite of my wife Rita Trinidad when she was pregnant with our first son Christopher.
Jill Sandique, lead trainer, US Culinary Theater:
I feel it’s not a dish that makes anything memorable. It is the person I sit at the table with that makes the meal remarkable. As a chef, I build much of life’s memories sharing meals with family and friends. Though I enjoy and cherish them all, it is being with my teacher, mentor, and friend Nick Malgieri that makes any meal more than just satisfying and nourishing. It is the feeling of being in the comfortable and inspiring presence of a mentor-turned-friend that makes the simplest or grandest of meals special. All worth remembering because I am with him.
Penk Ching, cake stylist; COO, Pastry Alliance of the Philippine:
My most memorable dish is banana walnut cake. It’s a simple dessert but what makes it special is the person I served it to — Rachy Cuna, an idol, an icon, a very down-to-earth man, and the one and only floral architect in the Philippines.
Badjie Guerrero-Trinidad, CEO, Cravings Group:
My most memorable dish is the pastel de tortillas, which I always prepare on my mom Susana P. Guerrero’s birthday. It is a tradition for us to serve this for breakfast together with Spanish hot chocolate and ensaimada.
To date, I still consider fish head, the specialty at Chin Chin’s, our first restaurant on Pasay Road, as my most memorable dish. And the most memorable person I served it to over the years was SM’s Henry Sy Sr. (Tatang to many). He has been an inspiration and a great example to many, and I am proud to say he is my idol. He first stepped into my restaurant (Chin Chin) 25 years ago and ordered our fish head specialties. Since then, I’ve been him the same dish every time he’s in the restaurant.
My favorite dish, which I crave when I’m abroad is pasta chorizo. I can have this daily for two weeks straight. It is also one of my most memorable dishes because it happens to be the favorite dish of President Noynoy Aquino.
Raymund Magdaluyo, president/CEO, The Red Crab Group
My most memorable dish is Blackbeard Seafood Island’s boodle feast. The resto’s theme is “Seafood, Sarap, Saya.” Sarap because it’s fresh seafood cooked well in different ways; saya because eating boodle is fun, it develops togetherness and barkadahan. This is what I serve my friends, among them Moymoy Palaboy, when they dine in the resto.
In the span of my long culinary career, I have had the honor and pleasure to cook for many people — from the brightest in the fields of art and culture, to the most influential and powerful in business and politics. I have cooked authentic French cuisine for the most discriminating gourmands in the Philippines at my restaurant Au Bon Vivant; and in 1972, introduced Filipino cuisine to the French at Aux Iles Philippines in Paris. (Brigitte Bardot enjoyed our lumpiang sariwa very much.) But I would have to say that the most memorable meal is not one that I myself cooked. The biggest privilege was that Paul Bocuse cooked for me in Manila in 1978. He had, by then, been awarded the Légion d’honneur by French President Valery Gisard d’Estaing.
Jay Gamboa, executive chef, Cirkulo:
Our most memorable dish at Cirkulo is the slow-roasted US beef belly. This dish came about quite by accident and necessity. Our former chef at Tsukiji asked me to help him order US beef belly for the gyudon beef rice at Tsukiji. I asked one of my suppliers to place a special order for me for the minimum quantity, which turned out to be one ton. When the US beef belly arrived, I told my Japanese chef and he was very happy to have the beef on stock. A few months later, my supplier was bugging me about the beef, saying that I had 950 kilos still in stock! Pressure was on to find a new use for the US beef. After a few weeks, we came up with the slow-roasted US beef belly served with horseradish creme. It has been a Cirkulo favorite ever since, especially during Christmas for noche buena take-out and parties. My mom Julie Gamboa was a big fan of beef. Mom liked to eat roast beef, burgers, prime rib, and the like. She taught us that everybody should always try to eat well.
Chef Ariel Manuel, chef/owner, Lolo Dad’s:
One of my most memorable dishes is the baked oyster with foie gras. It was actually an accidental dish. My son Justin (who was two years old then) loves anything with foie gras. This boy has a very expensive and sophisticated palate. I was in the kitchen experimenting with baked oysters with angel hair pasta, served it on its own shell, and made my wife Mia tried it. When Justin saw her eating the oysters, he hurriedly approached and asked me if he could have a serving, too. So I made a few pieces and topped it with some of our left-over seared foie gras since it’s his favorite. When the guests saw him eating oysters with foie gras, they asked one of our waiters if they could order it, too. I actually sold two dozens of the gourmet oysters at that very moment. From then on, it became a hit.
Rolando “Mac” Macatangay, executive pastry chef, Manila Hotel:
It is a known fact that I started my career at Manila Hotel and it is here that I have discovered my true passion. The hotel was the place where I honed my culinary skills. But more importantly, Manila Hotel inspired me to be the best in everything I do. The recognitions I received from my creations, I owe it to Manila Hotel. The Strawberry and Polenta Chocolate Le Robusta, one of my winning cake creations at the Hotel and Restaurants category of Fonterra Pastry Challenge in 2010, is one of my most memorable creations, perhaps the best. It is only fitting to dedicate the best to the place that took me in when I was just starting.
Fernando Aracama, executive chef and partner, Republiq and Café Republiq; My Thai Kitchen; Canteen@Trilogy Boutique:
My Mama Elvira Aracama lives in California now and I see her twice a year — for Christmas and for her birthday in August. I make each visit extra special by throwing a party for her with my other siblings and our closest relatives in attendance.
Mama loves it when I cook up a storm for these parties. Her favorite dish — galantina, whole deboned chicken stuffed with chorizos, smoked ham, green olive relish, eggs, ground meat, and basted with a potent olive oil, tomato, and rosemary sauce. I make a robust and heady sauce from the drippings laced with white wine, giblets, and a homemade punchy side dish of pickled shallots, green olives, sweet paprika, and bread crumbs. A little difficult to execute, but I’ve had good practice. I remember doing this dish for the first time when I was 18 years old. Since then, this has become our family’s most memorable dish.
I’ve had the good fortune to have dined in the most prestigious, top-rated restaurants in the world with the most respected chefs in the kitchen. Illuminating experiences and flavors that have inspired and enriched me in so many ways. But nothing compares to coming home to my family and taking my rightful place as a son, brother, uncle — who loves to cook. Constantly rediscovering that singular joy of cooking for my family is what makes me want to be the chef that I have become today.