The Accidental Food Stylist meets the International Food Fashionista

MANILA, Philippines - Fashion is synonymous with style and recently I have been given a shot of inspiration via my latest encounter with the diva of food styling, the internationally renowned Delores Custer, a freelance food stylist and culinary educator since 1978. During her 30 years of experience styling for advertising, magazines, books, television and film, Delores has created stunning visuals making food look its best for the camera — visions that feed the eyes and the imaginations of hungry foodies worldwide. Make no mistake: her work influences what one buys, cooks and eats.

This woman is truly a marvel. I came to realize this as I sat in a workshop she conducted at the Oceana Restaurant last Friday. Imagine, at her age, she is still afire, doing what she loves to do; that is, teaching and becoming an ambassador of her craft. This is how I want to see myself 20 years from now, still blazing trails and fueling other people’s dreams by sharing a knowledge richly acquired through experience.

Looking back, I never thought I’d dabble in the edible arts. I am, you could say, a “food stylist” by accident, or maybe it was destiny. I studied food styling at the California Culinary Academy in 1994 under Denise Vivaldo so I could offer the class in our school. Back then, the craft offered more challenges and taught us the virtue of patience. Years ago, food would wilt under the studio lights, as one waited for results after each shot. Since pictures were shot on actual film, the production team was dependent on the film developing and drying before knowing the outcome. Before the magic of Adobe Photoshop, shots had to be redone if the results fell short of expectations. At that time there were just a handful of serious food stylists, and not much interest in the field. I never realized that food styling would be my second career — until five years ago, when a friend who consults for an advertising agency asked me if I wanted to try food styling for a TV commercial. I never thought I would fall in love with the entire process — from being involved during brainstorming sessions where the craziest ideas are thrown out to having the storyboard come to life. Recently, I was part of a commercial shoot for an instant spaghetti brand in Vietnam. The shoot required that the talent eat the spaghetti inside a mock-up of the Leaning Tower of Pisa, with everything askew! The scenes were shot to look like everything was slanted: plates were slipping off the table and the lead actor seated by the table enjoying his plate of spaghetti was sliding towards the window as well! It was fun to watch how the effects were executed on the set. 

For me, food styling was a welcome break from my daily routine. Unexpected things can happen, and I experienced the adrenaline rush that comes with troubleshooting on the spot. Food styling is often problem solving — for example, finding a way of thinning down a thick sauce or a dressing like mayonnaise; or in another instance, the director asked me how to make a bar of chocolate sink down into liquid when it is lightweight. What I did was insert a piece of lead in the bar so it would be heavy enough to sink. Once I was required to come up with a giant peppermint candy two inches in diameter and make it glossy for a close-up shot of its center (I painted it with nail polish).

A food stylist is indeed crucial when time is limited. One has to be really alert and resourceful to get the job done. But I love the challenges it presents. I enjoy being a part of a busy set, interacting with the most creative and sometimes crazy people who I deal with: the celebrities, director, writer, art director, cinematographer, etc. And of course, when regular offers came in, I take them because it has been a source of shopping money!

There are a lot of valuable insights I picked up during the recent workshop. Delores noted that today, in the world of food marketing and advertising, the natural look is ideal. Whereas before, photographed images strived for perfection — say, if one featured an apple pie, there would not be a single crumb on the plate — these days, the corporate preference is for a more imperfect, more accessible and casual approach. Today, there is beauty in imperfection.

 Simplicity in lighting is more favored. Fewer props are used, observing the mantra, “Less is more.” Delores presented one dish served in different plates to point out that simple plating highlights the dish as opposed to a printed plate. The doyenne of food styling impressed upon us the importance of writing a recipe from scratch when preparing the food for the camera. In one exercise, she demonstrated how to make French toast come alive visually for us, without using words: she asked us to write down the process step by step, the rationale being that when you read the recipe you should visualize the food. She presented and stylized the French toast in four different ways, depending on the market. For kids she coated the French toast with confectioner’s sugar and called it “Snow Toast”; for a Gourmet magazine photo shoot targeting the upscale adult, she added butter curls to the plating for a touch of elegance. She emphasized the importance of knowing your market when formulating the recipe.

During the latter part of the workshop, the participants asked her questions. One that particularly struck me was her answer to how she would handle demanding clients, e.g. a tough director or an advertising client who wants to interfere with the creative process.

Her answer was a revelation to me. She said she encourages the food stylist to be open to suggestions, regardless of one’s level of expertise. Delores answered with a rhetorical question: “What if those ‘what ifs’ by the client are the best solution after all?” I agree with her “What if?” approach. She adds that it is not a serious, life-or-death situation akin to surgery — it’s only a food shoot, after all. Suggestions should always be welcomed; it is a collaboration, not a “my way or the highway” solo project. And in the end, the client must be satisfied with the services rendered.

I was glad I made it to the workshop. I wasn’t expecting to learn much that I did not already know or have encountered from experience. I never thought I’d come out a humbled, more enlightened, fired-up food stylist! Delores’ energy is infectious and she is such a giving person. Generous to a hilt, she shares her trade secrets in a book she has written entitled Food Styling. Personally, I find it to be the definitive book for aspiring and seasoned food fashionistas alike! You can find Food Styling at National Bookstore.

That day, it was a joy to meet the awe-inspiring Delores Custer. She has elevated food styling to an art form. Having said that, I believe food styling should be given its due recognition. Awards have been handed to critically acclaimed films; scholarships granted to talented painters and musicians, recognition has been given to chefs… Well, how about the artists behind every mouthwatering image of food? When do we get our share? Is it because we are actually food’s best-kept secret? And what lies ahead for food styling? I have witnessed its evolution from Polaroid photos to the magic of digital photography, making images so appetizingly real. Can Smell-o-vision be far behind, I wonder? Well, nothing is impossible these days, and so there lies the challenge.

One thing’s for sure: Delores gave me a glimpse of my future. Now it’s clear to me what I’ll be doing when I hit my ’80s. As long as I’m standing on my own two feet, I will be sharing my all-consuming love of food in all its glory. It’s my delicious raison d’être!