The artisan baker

Charge it to friendship.”  Those were his exact words and I will never forget them.

Twice he has come to my rescue and saved me from what could have been disastrous occasions — the first time when I needed a sourdough starter for my artisan bread class; the second time when a chef instructor in my school requested for a Kaiser roll press. I was so grateful that he immediately responded to my call for help without any hesitation or fuss, and when I asked how much I would have to pay him, he said, “Charge it to friendship.” 

I thought to myself, how much of a friend was I to him to be accorded such treatment? What have I done to deserve this? It was such a humbling experience. And maybe the best way I could repay this was to pay it forward. Spread the kindness around and it comes back to you. Perhaps that is why Johnlu Koa stays on top of his league, the consummate craftsman who refuses to rest on his laurels, a man always in pursuit of excellence as well as a person who is genuinely giving of himself. These are the hallmarks of great individuals. And he has certainly made

In Barcelona, a street performance by kids is fun to watch

his mark in the Philippine baking industry.

It pays as well to just linger around him because his energy is infectious, and you are bound to be swept away. I am glad to have had this chance a couple of weeks back when I visited his famous bakery, the Lartizan Boulangerie Française, a cozy, wood-and-brick bakery adjoining Mickey’s Delicatessen, located along Jupiter St. in Makati. Here one can truly satisfy his fix for authentic European bread. Word of mouth has turned this charming, rustic bakery into probably the only place to go to for serious bread lovers. A usual scene in the afternoon is expats lining up at the counter for their regular ration of sourdough baguettes. Lartizan is also the place I’d recommend for people who want to make sure they eat the best and healthiest food, as they regularly offer large loaves of six-cereal bread and 100-percent wholegrain bread. The assortment of treats is freshly baked daily in full view, to the delight of its constantly growing patrons.

If not for his Asian eyes, I’d swear Johnlu was French. He would always wax romantic about his frequent trips to France to talk about the culture and the food. He lives, breathes and is consumed by it. And so, French Baker was born in 1989 and now has over 26 branches.

Graduating cum laude in Business Administration at UP Diliman, this visionary foresaw a trend towards French pastries and grabbed the monkey by the tail, where he dreamed of bringing the neighborhood bakery to a higher level and let every Filipino enjoy freshly baked quality breads at an affordable cost. Since then, French Baker has been one of the most successful and longest-running bakery chains in the country, true to its commitment to serve the freshest, healthiest and affordable European-inspired baked goodies to its loyal and still-growing clientele. Thanks to French Baker and Johnlu’s vision, baguettes, croissants, crepes, bagels, sourdough and ciabatta are now as familiar to us Pinoys as pan de sal, monay and ensaymada.

And yet his detractors would contend that French Baker is not French enough because of three things: (1) It is owned by a Chinese, (2) It is not in Rustan’s, and (3) It is not in Makati. Before, Makati was considered the barometer of the aristocratic class, the elite, the high and mighty. Ouch. Johnlu was challenged by these words and indeed he ultimately realized he still had to tap the high-end triple-A market. He took stock of French Baker’s strengths and weaknesses. He found that artisanal breads such as ciabatta and sourdough were slow movers among the baked items on sale. He realized that this served a different market and a more sophisticated taste. This understanding, coupled with the fact that around the world there is a growing trend towards slow food, back-to-basics and a fascination with artisan bread — promoting the use of natural ingredients and traditional techniques as opposed to commercially processed product.

Artisan bread has been carefully made by hand by an artisan craftsperson trained in the art of mixing, fermenting, shaping and baking a loaf of bread. My definition of this type of bread is bread with character and personality; rustic, crusty bread with a chewy texture that is satisfying and addictive. And this serves a market driven by a refined, sophisticated taste, finding satisfaction in the subtle nuances of bread, from the fissures of the chewy crust once sliced or torn and in the magnificent aroma of grain, caramelization and fermentation even before that first bite. It’s glorious bread that nourishes our bodies and our imaginations.

Hence the birth of Lartizan Boulangerie Francaise, the name a play on l’ artisan, meaning “the artisan” in French. Lartizan specializes in traditionally baked European breads that do not use chemicals or artificial flavors. Johnlu only sources the finest ingredients from abroad, from his butter, which is purchased from Normandy, to a specially milled flour ordered to his specifications. The intimate bakery showcases its breads and other baked goods, which are reliably superior in flavor and texture. During my visit, I spied on the bakery’s well-trained staff stretching and folding the dough on an open wooden counter-top. A baker was dusting a couche, a proofing cloth (which literally means “bed” in French) with flour. Before transferring the loaves onto the cloth, he bunches up the fabric between the loaves to make walls to support the dough. This is especially helpful with soft dough; the bunched-up walls prevent the dough from spreading sideways or flattening.

In an open cabinet, bannetons were neatly stacked. These are baskets that provide structure for dough as it proofs. The bowls need to be twice as large as the dough going into it. These traditional baking tools are costly and can be improvised, but Johnlu refuses to compromise. He

The author Ernest Gala at Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia church in Barcelona

wants everything to be authentic as it can be. The aroma in the bakery is incredible! And Johnlu, who worked in the kitchen that afternoon, had me sample shards of almond tuile crisps freshly baked from the oven — their delicate sweetness made my heart sing! I so loved it I ordered extra to go to munch on. Other bestsellers besides the sourdough bread and baguettes are their miniature quiches, almond croissants and raisin bread. French Baker fixtures like their signature muffins are also baked here but here the muffins are bigger. 

Johnlu Koa amazes me. He is fully involved in everything he does, he’s an in-the-moment person, immersed and focused. It’s no wonder he is consistently on top of his craft. Which is why somehow one experiences the love and dedication that goes into every artisan loaf Lartizan bakes.

Bread is the cornerstone of good food. It is a basic staple of life that not only nourishes the body but also inspires passion in the soul. Johnlu Koa celebrates the goodness of bread, the staple of life, honoring the process, the crust, the crumb, the aroma, the texture, color and taste … examining and exalting each and every aspect of bread, its ingredients, and surely he will discover new ways to serve it better.

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