Hong Kong hungry
Recently,I needed a breather; I needed to re-source myself and find inspiration. Hong Kong was the perfect choice. It’s conveniently near, almost like flying to Davao. A mini-Asian New York City, fast-paced, packed with cultural variety, authenticity and the avant-garde. And best of all, apart from incredible shopping, it’s a food lovers’ Shangri-la. A mecca for all kinds of cuisine. Gourmet and street food stand side by side, holding hands, singing Kumbaya to my grumbling stomach.
Hong Kong. It’s actually quite a funny name and somehow always makes me think of King Kong — that misunderstood giant gorilla, wreaking havoc across the city, looking for his hidden prey. I was King Kong in Hong Kong: always on the hunt for that perfect gem of a dumpling, to snatch up and gobble down greedily. As soon as I stepped out of the plane, my belly let out a mighty roar! Hong Kong, watch out; Stephanie is here to feast.
My flight departed late and to calm my gastric moans and groans, I gingerly chowed down on awful plane food. I normally like plane food. I just love how everything comes in cute little trays and it’s all somewhat bland and comforting. But this was just awful. We were arriving too late for a proper dinner and I knew that tonight was going to be a liquid diet. In any case, it didn’t matter. I was in for a fabulous food-orgy weekend.
The next day: hung over and very hungry. The worst combination ever. You’re willing to eat just about anything. Cheap noodles, potato chips, a burger… My mind wasn’t thinking straight and waiting painfully for the magical effects of caffeine, it suddenly dawned on me. I had a vision: small, white, perfectly formed xiao long baos were calling out to me telepathically from food heaven. Magic pearls that would make time stop and everything better.
“Where, O where art thou, my lovely xiao long bao?” The only place I knew of was Crystal Jade in Harbour City. I’d have to cross to the other island to find my sweet, beloved soup dumplings. It was nearing three o’clock and for dim sum connoisseurs, that means last order. “Woe is me… Wait for me, my sweet…” It seemed an impossible task. Then, a saving phone call from a friend told us to rush into a cab and eat at Maxim’s at City Hall. And in this palace of strange European chinoiseries, bright lights and a fantastic view of the harbor, I found my treasure.
Carts and carts of dim sum were suspiciously inspected, approved or rejected. I knew what I wanted and ordered à la carte. After what seemed like hours, many Lost in Translation moments, and the pressure of a lady calling out “Last call for order…” two steaming bamboo baskets arrived. I opened them and after the steam cleared, like shining pearls in the mist, there appeared five of the most perfectly formed Shanghai soup dumplings I’d ever seen. Perfect size, and that shape! There was a little hole to pour that juicy gingered vinegar in. The anticipation of letting it cool, to the pleasurable explosion of soupy goodness in the mouth was tout simplement parfait.
Xiao long bao comes from the Nanxiang district in Shanghai as breakfast food. I guess it’s sort of the Chinese version of a sandwich, a meal on the run. Pork, carbohydrates, soup all in one small, neat package.
This xiao long bao experience set the mood for my “King Kong in Hong Kong” experience. I was hooked on Chinese food. I snubbed the Michelin Star-ry sky and delved into the rich local cuisine. I had the most amazing roast duck at the China Club. A friend of ours squished all 12 of us around one round table, surrounded by the most impeccably curated collection of Chinese modern art, ordered a horde of things and notably three very beautiful roast ducks. Silly me had no camera on hand, but this experience will forever be imprinted in my memory. The thinnest Chinese crêpes, the softest meat and the crispiest, juiciest skin ever. No need for that much plum sauce. It’s a very solemn moment in your mouth when you bite into your handmade rolls.
I also love Hong Kong street food and eating in these random noodle shops in shady corners. While everyone else had a business meeting, my friend Abhisheck and I decided to explore strange food places around Sheung Wan. This large building had “Cooked Food Center” emblazoned on it. I was so excited thinking it would be the most exciting hodgepodge of our favorite Cantonese food. It turned out to be a food market that was closed and kind of smelly. After entering several holes-in-the-wall, and more of those Lost in Translation moments, we finally found the very elusive wonton noodle soup. Ordered this comfort food with the help of two friendly Filipinas eating beside us. Twenty Hong Kong dollars: the most sulit meal I’ve had there.
Our last lunch there was at Crystal Jade in IFC. (Yes! There is one, Hong Kong side.) Of course I ordered xiao long bao and we also discovered the fried soup dumpling! You fry anything up, it just tastes five times better. I finished my trip with a new favorite and rode the train to the airport, feeling utterly satisfied. I had calmed the monster in my stomach. King Kong was now a small little chimp, purring ever so slightly while gently rubbing his belly. As we were rushing to our gate, out of the corner of my eye I caught the Petrossian caviar stand… I looked at my boyfriend: “Shall we…?” As if we hadn’t eaten enough, the trip ended on a luxurious moment with a tiny spoon of caviar and a shot of Champagne. Cheers!
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