The future of world cuisine is green
MANILA, Philippines - Widespread use of locally grown produce that is grown in a sustainable manner is the future of world cuisine,” says chef Eric Chauffour of Institut Paul Bocuse, the prestigious French culinary institution founded by one of the modern pillars of French cuisine. “There is a growing global consciousness on the importance of the concept of sustainability. People are more aware of the health benefits of naturally grown foods, and this is a good thing.” Chauffour has spent more than 20 years working in various first-rate establishments throughout the world. He is convinced of this: “Organic is our future.”
Chef Chauffour was invited to the Philippines by the Center for Culinary Arts, Manila (CCA, Manila) recently, to conduct a four-day series of cooking demonstrations and lectures. The program is in keeping with the school’s goal of keeping its students abreast of the best and latest in the culinary field. Now in its 13th year, the Philippines’ pioneer in formal culinary education has forged an alliance with Institut Paul Bocuse, named after one of the most famous chefs of the 20th century. “We are honored to partner with one of the world’s foremost culinary institutions,” says Ma. Veritas F. Luna Ph.D, managing director of CCA Manila. “This will enable our students to learn from the best and imbibe industry-required skills to excel in the global culinary arena.” The activities conducted by Chauffour and CCA included several classic French cuisine demonstrations, a culinary hands-on workshop for both CCA faculty and practicing professionals, plus a gala dinner.
One of the most anticipated dishes prepared by chef Chaffour was nage de legumes aux escargots-Grenouilles en persillade, or snails and frog legs on a bed of vegetables. “Frog” is a term sometimes used to refer to Frenchmen and is commonly believed to be derived from their culinary enjoyment of that particular amphibian. The term is not necessarily pejorative and, in fact, was a complimentary appellation. During World War II particularly, members of the French resistance were much admired because they easily blended into the natural environment, thereby evading Nazi troops. At the same session, chef Chauffour also prepared monkfish tail with oyster emulsion and the traditional French dessert crème brulee with vanilla lemon zest.
Chef Chauffour’s rich and tasty frog and escargot dish was also much admired and complimented. No less than Filipino culinary icon Nora Daza pronounced it délicieux. The personal friend of Paul Bocuse, owner of the three-Michelin-starred Aux Isles Philippines restaurant in Paris during the 1970s, and special guest of CCA Manila, said, “I am glad to be here with my friend Annie Guerrero who founded CCA. She has done so much to improve the cuisine of the Philippines.”
What can be done to elevate Filipino cuisine so that it will be more widely known throughout the world? “Go to your roots,” suggests chef Chauffour. “The different islands are a good source of variety.” And the panel of respected Filipino chefs and food entrepreneurs who attended the activity agreed wholeheartedly. “The most important factor for cuisine is that it should maintain tradition as it evolves,” says Bistro Filipino owner Rolando Laudico. “It is the responsibility of chefs to preserve the integrity of culture. For Philippine cuisine to be more recognized, it should go through a progression where it strives to become more refined, while maintaining its essence.”
As an advocate of organic farming, Jacqueline Haessig Alleje adds, “It is not just about taste and originality; but it is also about the appropriate combination of food choice and quality. The composition of French cuisine — fresh vegetables, steamed fish, less deep-frying — can help us embrace a healthier lifestyle. As professionals in the culinary arts, we have the responsibility to make people aware that you are what you put into your mouth to eat. If you eat junk, your body will be junk and your thinking will be junk.” She suggests that locally-grown produce can be used for innovative dishes. For example antioxidant-rich camote can be combined with green mango and celery as our version of potato salad. Chef Jacqui has also been known to serve a bagoong cocktail crepe with singkamas and mango. “We have great produce in the Philippines. Healthy gourmet cuisine is like organic farming. You want to keep things as close as possible to the natural state. Without sustainable consumption, we will leave a very big burden to future generations.”
Global warming has tangible effects on the culinary scene. Successful food entrepreneur Filipino entrepreneur Raymond Magdaluyo relates that the changing of the tides has affected the supply of seafood and there is the reality of hyperinflation. “There is also the globalization backwash of negative externalities like contaminants and hazards in food. This has made us to contract a bit and buy local.” But perhaps, this is an advantage for the worldwide “green” effort because less fuel is burned to transport food. “There is a clamor for healthier food and new techniques allow you to be more creative to and protect business margins.” Thus, the French classic curriculum remains pertinent because its structure explains the dynamics of flavor and how cooking affects food. “The attitude of openness where chefs were willing to share continues to be relevant,” wraps up Chef Paul Huang.
But what are the possibilities for world-class Filipino cuisine? Nora Daza, who served the much-applauded kuhol in coconut milk with luyang dilaw and bagoong in Paris, says with authority: “We know how to taste and balance our food. The only thing we need to learn is to make it more presentable. But flavor-wise? We’ve got it.” As a matter of fact she tells the story of how movie star Brigitte Bardot enjoyed fresh lumpiang ubod so much that she planned to go to the Philippines. That is, until she found out how far away it was from France.
But that was in the 1970s. Today, we are ready to bring Filipino cuisine to the world.
