Henry's Place is our place

MANILA, Philippines - What does it take to achieve originality, freshness, and flavor in Chinese cooking?  Many would say that this combination could already be found in most restaurants in this country with strong Chinese influence and presence. Yet it is the seeming lack of decent Chinese food that pushed a couple who have practically founded their lives on the freshest of sea bounties to embark on a brand-new voyage as restaurateurs.

Reynaldo “Chito” Sy grew up in Divisoria, literally surrounded by fish since his mother was an ambulant tinapa vendor. It is not surprising that when he started on his own, he would deal in fish and other products of the sea. Several decades from those humble beginnings and with invaluable assistance from his wife Annie, Chito Sy’s Seachamp is now one of the biggest fish exporters in the country, with fully independent processing plants in Pasay City, Palawan, Surigao, and Zamboanga.

Over lunch one Monday, Annie said they were dismayed that they could not find Chinese restaurants in the city that served good food at good prices. They were already in the seafood business so why not set up their own restaurant? It was an idea that did not immediately fly because of one big problem: Who will do the cooking?

Fortunately, Chito knew someone, a close friend and golf buddy for more than a quarter of a century, in fact, who could not only cook well but also had the experience to back him up — renowned fusion chef Henry Cheung.

Chef Henry was a New York-based interior designer before finding love and his true calling in the Philippines. His uncle, an equally celebrated chef in China, Hong Kong, and Taiwan who had cooked for Chiang Kai-shek, was his inspiration when he opened his first restaurant in the Philippines 20 years ago.

Chinese food lovers who have always enjoyed the dishes served at the Good Earth Tea Room will surely relish this latest venture of chef Henry. So confident was he of the potential of a partnership with his friend Chito that he staked his very name on it.

Henry’s Place by Good Earth is a concoction made in heaven, spiced up by the complementary strengths and joie de vivre of these two men.

As Chito confessed, “I don’t know how to cook, but I have the freshest seafood in the country, while Henry is a great chef who relies only on the freshest seafood that the local markets can offer. We are a perfect match.”

Even the selection of the site for Henry’s Place was deemed providential by Chito and Annie. They were searching for a suitable place when — on separate occasions — they chanced upon the then undeveloped Forbes Town Center.

Nestled across the tree-covered roundabout of Burgos Circle a few meters from St. Luke’s Medical Center at The Fort, Henry’s Place opened in July this year and has since attracted a growing number of patrons.

We had a belly-busting sampling of the house specialties and no longer wondered why people just keep coming back for more, even during the lean hours (customers are still arriving beyond 2 p.m.).

For starters, we tried the best-selling Lily on the Pond, eggplant rounds with a sumptuous filling of shrimp meat, water chestnut, and shiitake mushroom in curry sauce. Sunshine Bean Curd is chef Henry’s new dish that gives fried bean curd an entirely new twist. The fusion of old and new as well as of the east and west was evident in Tunaquitos (sashimi tuna from Mindoro served in a taco shell and topped with wasabi and caviar) and Duckquitos (shredded duck served in a taco shell and topped with duck sauce).

Whatever meat Henry’s Place has is, of course, cooked the Chinese way, with a twist. Roast duck and prawns in lychee sauce leaves a tingling sensation on the tongue, while the Hainanese chicken, specially prepared by chef Henry, is fast becoming one of the most popular items on the menu. The crispy duck rolls are a gustatory and visual feast. Chef Henry was not content with simply serving the dish; he added a bit of romance by including an image of the moon (in wasabi sauce) on a semi-cloudy evening.

A further sampling of the main dishes was like a virtual tour of the Philippine seas — tender squid cooked in stewed tomatoes and spinach from Palawan, Coco Racha (coconut crabs) from Zamboanga, and pan-fried sea mantis (alupihang dagat) from Surigao. I have never tried any more tender squid, fresher coconut crab, or bigger sea mantis in all my years as a seafood lover.

This is not your typical Chinese food at all, folks. Sure, they’re tasty, but they do not use MSG (vetsin) that usually makes us drowsy at the end of the meal. It is healthy with plenty of greens incorporated and none of the usual oil so characteristic of wok cooking. The preparation of the food is not hurried, so chef Henry is able to create works of art when presenting his dishes. The Tunaquitos, for example, are served with the Chinese characters for “raw fish” written in wasabi sauce.

As an exclamation point to our feast, we were served some of the house’s best-selling desserts. Coco Grass is a jelly-coconut mix perfectly combined in a semi-sweet cream. Those who prefer fresh fruits are in for a real refreshing treat with the Frozen Delight — not just any kind of ice cream but a blend of the fruits in season served frozen. The Icy Hot Banana, on the other hand, is a new manner of presenting a traditional banana dish. The bananas have a light dough mix topped with vanilla ice cream. Surprisingly, it’s light on the stomach.

Even if you are willing to pay a bundle to try this delectable selection, you will be happy to discover at the end of your meal that the prices on the menu are some of the most affordable in its class. Add to this the Zen-like ambience of Henry’s Place and your dining experience becomes truly magical.

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Henry’s Place by Good Earth is located at Burgos Circle, Forbes Town Center, The Fort, Taguig City, Metro Manila. It is open daily from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m., except Fridays and Saturdays (Pica Tica days) when it is open from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. For reservations and inquiries, call 393-5915 and 359-8277, or e-mail henrysplacebygoodearth@gmail.com.