Food for the big boys

Tucked away from the din of the traffic and incessant activity of the more popular Quezon City diner strips is Merkato. An ideal and tranquil foodie sanctuary, it’s a momentary getaway from the bustle of Quezon City where one may fully be immersed in the chow-down experience.

I find it to be elegant and casual at the same time, a place where one can choose to dress to the nines or dress down in comfortable jeans. For me, this bistro is perfect for men with huge appetites in the literal sense of the word. Merkato succeeds in appeasing one’s deep lust for food with offerings such as Omaha rib-eye, adobo lamb shanks and bistek fillet mignon. They are culinary creations that come in hefty portions — so big that single servings can be shared by two.

Merkato looks pristine, with its classic black and white decor. Big open spaces make it perfect for large families with wide floors for young tykes who enjoy running around a lot or for small intimate affairs where the food and atmosphere are sure to kindle the flames of amorous relationships.

The latest addition to Quezon City’s dining establishments, Merkato is the baby of four big men. so you could also say this article can be called “Four Men and a Baby.” These guys are big in every sense of the word. Big in spirit, dreams and possessing hefty bellies which indicate their obvious love of food. They are Vic Barreiro, Ed Bugia, Chito Contreras and Gil Manalastas — the happiest bunch of men I’ve ever encountered and their positive energy is deliciously infectious. They have been close friends since childhood. They were Boy Scouts together, met their first loves together, copied each other’s assignments, fended for each other and covered each other’s backs throughout school. They are loyal San Bedans through and through and have been a tight barkada since their elementary days. So it makes perfect sense that they eventually ventured into business together. I met them through my husband Benny who is a fellow Bedan.

Benny and me, together with our daughters, enjoyed dining there a few weeks back. I noticed that the menu featured no-fail classic dishes yet presented with a delightful nouveau twist. I was happy to find light selections as well and opted for grilled halibut which was served with the yummiest, thickest camote fries. The flavor actually had a hint of cinnamon in it. It was yummy, and I would not mind having that again. My youngest daughter, Carmela, had Pinoy home cooking with an elegant Merkato flair: kare-kare pork belly was ingeniously served on a bed of bagoong. I took a taste of her choice and stopped myself from picking from her plate too often. It was too delightful to resist. I observed the waiters: they were always alert, refilling our drinking glasses, always attentive. But they were discreet enough not to disrupt our private moments.

Upon the waiter’s suggestion, on our next visit I must try the blackened steak caesar Salad which he describes as tender strips of well-seasoned steak charred black outside to perfection. I commend their chefs — bright upstarts who know how to liven up classic dishes with just the right amount of tweaking.

Right now the bistro is enjoying a regular turnout of patrons but the owners joke that if ever the business does not turn out well, their families would make up for the lack of customers. They would actually pack the place!

Quezon City has always been a major dining destination. Main thoroughfares like Tomas Morato, Timog, E. Rodriguez and Araneta Center have always been peppered with restaurants to suit almost any taste. Some disappear as soon as they are built, some enjoy popularity for a while and gradually vanish but it is gratifying to know a lot of establishments have stood the test of time like Mario’s, Alfredo’s Steak House, Annabel’s Fine Dining, Alex III and Dulcinea. Just goes to show that with the diner’s ever-fickle taste in the face of an industry always looking for nouvelle cuisine they will always go back to what I call “the dependables.” Time will tell but Merkato’s has that kind of feel. A cozy atmosphere, dependable cuisine and big servings. Looks like I might take a trip back there pretty soon, if only to check on the big boys who finally have a place of their own.

Merkato is located at Casa Pura Apartelle, 55 Scout Santiago corner Scout Rallos St. Quezon City. Call 416-9159. Open Tuesdays to Sundays.

You may e-mail the author at henysison@gmail.com or log on to www.henysison.com.