Still high on Thai
I said it last week and I will confirm it again. Thailand is a veritable spectacle in every sense. And my five-day stay (courtesy of Thailand Tourism Authority) was not even long enough to explore its infinite wonders. Bangkok’s sidewalks alone will eat up a tourist’s time as one falls captive to an endless variety of irresistible, mouth-watering delicacies being offered from stall to stall. Tasty options like sweets, ready-to-eat fruits, savory snacks and cold drinks are available to visitors or locals, who just can’t resist a quick bite. And with more than enough food for every taste, I surmise that Bangkok must be a city of happy, happy people — well-satisfied appetites make for joyful and ultimately fulfilling lives.
And from a happy disposition my mood just kept elevating. By our second day in Bangkok, we were dining at the top of the world. A high-speed lift whizzed us right to the top floor — the 55th to be exact — of the swanky Centara Grand Hotel. And there we were treated to sophisticated dining amid a commanding view of central Bangkok at night. Red Sky describes itself as a chic urban bistro and wine bar where you can eat indoors or dine al fresco if you plan to sweep your date away with a romantic view of the stars that seem almost within your grasp. And indeed, it was a starry night as light talk was spiced with food that’s utterly divine. A lot of “Ooh” and “Aah” moments for me as I had crispy crab cakes and chilled soup of roasted bell pepper and corn for starters. Melt-in-your-mouth Australian grain-fed tenderloin with foie gras butter was the main course but I made sure I left room for dessert: oven-warmed Scottish bread and butter pudding with whiskey ice cream (the price of happiness I am sure will be measured in my thighs). Dishes were artfully presented. It was a visual — but more importantly a delicious — feast for the discriminating palate.
Fine spirits enhance the dining experience. And Red Sky takes its wine seriously. Philip Lecluse, food and beverage manager, is proud of their extensive wine list, which he says carries over 200 labels of the finest wines from both old and new world countries. In the midst of conversation I thought I was seeing things when an angel flew past me from above. And I hadn’t even finished my first martini! Strapped in harnesses and wings was Red Sky’s resident Wine Angel, who is assigned to fetch the wine from a huge circular two-story wine cellar, then swoop and descend upon diners who have ordered each bottle. I do believe Red Sky must be doing well with an angel watching over its shoulder! Novel and entertaining gimmicks such as this, beautiful interiors, not to mention excellent food and a premium wine selection, make Red Sky one of Asia’s hottest night spots.
On our third day it was time to move north. We took a flight to Chiang Mai and stayed in the serene Rarijinda Wellness Spa Resort. I love going to spas. I consider it an indulgence because work does not allow me the luxury of pampering myself very often. So I truly appreciated the opportunity of staying in this world-class resort. I haven’t felt so much at peace in a long time as I did in this haven. Just waking up to a breathtaking view of the Ping River and the majestic Doi Suthep Mountain from one’s veranda is priceless. A first for me was having my aura chakra read by Dr. Sushil Rahul who is Rarinjinda’s holistic physician. He explained to me that there is nothing really mystical about this science. From what I understand, aura is the energy that one’s body gives off. It is said that this energy contains information about one’s physical, emotional and spiritual self. Aura is said to be visible in different colors. The dominant color of my aura is blue, which means that I am generally calm and collected. I had to laugh; I don’t think it would be hard to figure that out, but coming from someone who does not know me at all, it was quite an accurate picture of my personality. He also dispensed practical advice: take time when eating. Learn to chew slowly for better digestion of food. I cannot agree more. From a food lover’s point of view, there’s no other way to savor food to fully capture its flavor! I was given a tour of the spa’s latest facility, and shown a sauna cubicle which can shed 600 calories per visit, as well as a machine that facilitates detoxification, purging us of all sins of gluttony and greed for pizza, hamburgers and other forms of wickedly delicious temptations.
To visit Thailand and not get a massage is like going to the beach and not taking a walk upon the shore-line. It would be senseless not to indulge in the age-old tradition that the Thais are most famous for: dispensing the magical gift of touch through massage. For an hour I drifted into another space and time as I had the most relaxing treatment ever. I tried the volcanic stone massage wherein tension and stress is released through heated stones put on various parts of my body. It was just what I needed! On my next visit, I would like to try their heated hydrotherapy pool, which is supposed to relax and soothe tired and aching muscles. It looks fun to take a dip, like a water wonderland. And next time, I’m bringing my family along!
Khan means “bowl” and toke means “low round table” — a traditional way of taking a meal, in the northern region. This is how we enjoyed our dinner that night in Chiang Mai, as we were introduced to Lanna culture through a lavish show of spectacular dances and great food. That night I understood how food is intrinsic to ones preservation of culture. It made perfect sense, as the performances chronicled the grand history of the Lanna Kingdom and we partook of the dishes marking that glorious era. Our dinner spoke of the delicate flavors of a traditional Khantoke Dinner, the customary dishes that have enlivened the cuisine of the Lanna for generations. Lanna means “a million rice fields,” reflecting the agricultural bounty of the northern region. So we delighted in the khao nieo sticky rice which is first soaked and then steamed in conical bamboo baskets, formed into small balls and eaten by hand to dip into curry or chili paste. Yummy! Northern Thai (Lanna) dishes are somewhat influenced by Burmese cuisine. There’s less coconut, more egg noodles (khao soy) lots of accompaniments with different types of curry and sticky rice. Besides the stunning performances during our dinner, what still lingers in my mind is the delectable Chiang Mai-style pork curry, deep-fried chicken, crispy pork skin and crispy rice noodles. To cap off the evening we participated in a ceremonial rite, in which we released colorful paper balloons into the night sky. This custom, called Khom Loy, was our way of paying respect to the Goddess of the River and our deliverance from personal troubles, as we watched them drift farther away from us till it was out of sight.
The next morning right after breakfast, we walked across the street to Deck 1 for a cooking demo class focused mainly on Northern Thai Cuisine. After a quick lunch we proceeded to Baan Tawai Handicraft village. I was bowled over by some of the most intricate wood-carved handicrafts I’ve ever come across. If only the items I liked would fit in my luggage, I sighed in frustration. Vendors told me that a lot of Filipino movie stars order wood furniture and handicrafts from them. This community of brilliant wood carvers do their country proud by keeping the tradition of Thai craftsmanship alive, and they should be given due recognition. They are a boon to Thai tourism and economy as well.
Our itinerary that day was tight: we still had a cooking class to attend that afternoon and more shopping opportunities at the Night Market. However, upon the insistence of a good friend I wanted to — if only for a glimpse — see Khaomao Khao Fang Restaurant. He had raved about how beautiful it was. It was a virtual jungle in the city. I have learned that is was conceived by a botanist who designed the place to look like a rainforest. The place was amazing. It is a green thumb’s dream. Winding paths, massive trees, ponds and rocks. What better music to accompany dining than the gurgling sound of running water in the background. The soothing sounds come from different streams and waterfalls abundant in the verdant setting. I requested that we take a side trip to this famous paradise-like diner. And my request was heeded. Mao, the owner’s daughter, greeted us with dalandan quenchers. Inviting indeed. It’s a shame we couldn’t linger and soak up the view. However, Mao personally extended an invitation, anytime I am free, to visit her. And I am seriously considering her offer.
Classy but laid-back, ultra-chic but playful, trendy but smart. This is how I would describe D2 Hotel, a new brand extension of Dusit international chain of hotels. Sporting a bold and funky orange color scheme, its defiance against the conventional, formal and rather serious look of other traditional hotels has elicited positive feedback. Conde Nast Traveller magazine has included D2 in its “hot list” of top hotels, while Travel + Leisure has given it glowing reviews. Celebrity icons Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie made it their hotel of choice when they last visited Thailand. Luxe City Guides has given it a curious monicker: “Sophisti-kitten.”
Even the staff is anything but common. The waiters are called Service Agents, the managers are referred to as Whizzes. They are infused with this aura of high energy but nevertheless the service is still as warm and accommodating as can be.
D2 is starting the trend of hip hotels on the rise. And Moxie, their popular in-house restaurant, is keeping true to its dynamic spirit. That afternoon Moxie’s executive chef Chalong Sakkapalangkul gave us a cooking class on northern dishes given the Moxie twist. We learned how to whip up Kaow Soi Kai, the famous Chiang Mai curry noodle soup with chicken. And for dinner we had a bellyful of Moxies’ eclectic but lip-smackingly sublime entrees. We had cocktails before dinner and were served their signature spiced nuts which I instantly got hooked on. It was spicy, flavorful but not hot. I asked the bartender — er, service agent — if he could share with me his recipe, and he happily obliged. I was thrilled to have it. And the minute I got home, I was excited enough to make it, so I unfolded the paper the bartender gave me and found indecipherable scrawling that looked like a drawing of worms. Oh, no; it was written in Thai characters. I was not aware that they also had a style of writing of their own. I am appealing to anyone who understands Thai handwriting to translate this recipe. It will be much appreciated!
Right after dinner, we walked to the Chiang Mai night market located right in the heart of the city on the Chan Klan Road. The market is similar to the Greenhills Tiangge. Besides its handicrafts and portrait paintings, there is a wide selection of jewelry, toys clothing and high-tech items. I am haunted by a vivid food memory right at this very same place almost 10 years back. I tasted the most exquisite roti right here at the night market a long time ago and I have always hoped that I come across it once more. The roti — a soft flat bread — was not like its Indian counterpart, but more like a French crepe: delicately thin but moist. It was filled with sliced bananas and condensed milk and its glorious taste stuck in my mind like a sweet, sentimental love song I can’t shake off. Well, call it coincidence, or déjà vu but I spotted the very lady who sold me the roti that I had absolutely fallen for. And she was still selling her delicious wares at the very same spot that I met her. I felt like someone who has won the lottery! With that heavy feeling that it might all just be an illusion and that she might instantly disappear like a mirage I rushed to her stall, introduced myself and asked her if she could share with me her recipe. Mission accomplished.
The next morning we toured the city of Lampang in a horse-drawn carriage. It is the only city in Thailand that uses this form of transport. There we were awestruck by the sight of one of the most venerated temples in the north, the Wat Phra That Lampang Luang. Painstaking workmanship is evident in the beautifully carved façade and intricate decorations around the porticoes. But its main attraction is a small emerald Buddha.
That evening we ate dinner in one of the more popular eateries serving Northern hospitality with an exquisite variety of Thai and Lanna cuisine. Saen Kham Terrace Restaurant has an infinite choice of entrees from appetizers, soups salad, curries, fried food, northern dishes, special dishes and dessert. Once again one has a choice to stay indoors or enjoy the delicious offerings on the terrace overlooking hills and rice paddies. My absolute favorites were: deep-fried shrimp cake and deep-fried Shrimp seaweed and white sesame spring roll for appetizers; for salads we tried white curcuma with shrimp and papaya salad; for the main dish we had samplings of different curries like red curry with roasted duck, green curry with pork/chicken and beef. Our trip to Thailand started off on a high, and ended on a high as well as we relished the feast before us. We’d done nothing but eat, chow down, devour, any delicious thing set before us the whole five days, but with all the good food around, we never seemed to get our fill. Thailand will always haunt me with its ancient temples, towering skyscrapers, gracious hospitality and delightful cuisine and some day, pretty soon, I will be back to relish more! But for now let me share with you some Thai delights to enjoy at your table. Sawasdee!
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