Let them eat bread

Blues is to jazz as yeast is to bread. Without it, it’s flat. — Carmen McRae, jazz vocalist

Bread deals with living things, with giving life, with growth, with the seed, the grain that nurtures. It’s not a coincidence that we say bread is the stuff of life.” — Lionel Poilne

Thirteen-time Olympic and European culinary champion and bread master Nicola Stratoti from the Italian Institute for Advance Culinary and Pastry Arts always told us during our classes in Italian dialect that “there was nothing more pure than a kitchen scented with the aroma of homemade bread baking in the oven, and lavishing it with butter just before the first bite.” Eric Gourmand of Moulin de Mougins said: “the bread is the key to excellent sandwiches.” Johnlou Koa, founder and CEO of The French Baker, says “its prized qualities of good flavor, mouthwatering aromas, and appetizing textures are always there for the consumer to perceive and enjoy.” The art of breadmaking has been around for thousands of years, since man first added flour or grain and liquid to instantly transform into a crusty piece that is baked, fried or steamed. Some examples include crackers and tortillas. As time passed the discovery of a one-celled fungus called yeast, baking soda and other leavening agents formed dough to expand, rise, to be softer in texture and lighter in weight. It further evolved when wheat flour was kneaded by hand or mixer with liquid to form elastic gluten or protein, which entraps carbon dioxide gas to form bubbles that enable the bread to remain soft.

The introduction of sugar, honey and milk added more flavor while salt helped neutralize the yeast from over-expanding. Breads are an excellent source of complex carbohydrates, contain B-complex vitamins, while whole grain breads are rich in fiber.

The main components to make yeast bread are flour, yeast, liquid, sugar, salt and fat. The most common type of flour used is all-purpose flour which is a blend of soft and hard wheat flour. There is also whole wheat flour, made from kernel, bran germ and endosperm. Delicious, but it turns rancid fast and is best kept in the refrigerator or freezer to increase shelf life. Bread shops often use bread flour which consists of hard wheat and the high gluten content adds a heavy texture with a longer shelf life. It also contains thiamine. Cake flour is not used for yeast baking because the gluten content is small and will create a crumbly texture, not strong enough to hold together. Weather affects flour as high humidity causes it to absorb the moisture in the air. Using the right amount of flour is crucial and most recipes will use enough to create a soft dough or dough that pulls away from the sides of the bowl to form a central mass. Excellent dough is smooth, elastic and firm. Too much flour is stiff, hard and difficult to handle.

Yeast is the tiny organism that increases in number when sweetness is added and placed in warm and moist surroundings. As it grows it produces alcohol (released in the oven to give that wonderful aroma) and carbon dioxide that forms bubbles and causes it to rise. In cold temperatures yeast will stagnate and not grow but will still remain alive. Keeping it in the freezer will extend the shelf life to one year. Too high a temperature will cause it to die, thus stopping carbon dioxide from being released. The best conditions for yeast is a warm bath — between 105 and 115 degrees Fahrenheit, or a liquid that is warm when placed on the wrist. The most common type is active dry yeast. Proofing — or the method of testing if the yeast is alive or dead — is done by combining a tablespoon of yeast, sugar and liquid. In five to 10 minutes, bubbles will form indicating the yeast is alive. If no bubbles appear, wait up to 30 minutes. If there are still no bubbles the yeast is not active and is therefore dead.

All dough has liquid that becomes steam while in the baking process. The steam forces the starch cells from the flour to expand, controlling the texture of your bread. The liquid is warm to dissolve the salt and sugar and to help the yeast mix well with the flour. Depending on the recipe, different types of yeast are used. Water gives you a wheat flavor and crispy crust. Milk, a more commonly used ingredient, gives a more tender texture, and keeps the bread fresher and browner. Eggs are also considered liquid as a whole egg is 75 percent water and holds the dough together.

Sugar is food for the yeast and energizes it to reproduce faster and in greater number. It also adds flavor, though too much will cause it to be overfed and inactive. Salt is a stabilizer, preventing it from producing carbon dioxide too fast. No salt in your dough will make it sticky and hard to handle, full of holes, and less desirable in texture. Fats such as butter, margarine, oil or vegetable lard can be added for a richer taste and crispier texture.

Culture and availability of surrounding ingredients have led to a variety of types of bread. White bread is made from refined wheat flour while multigrain bread is made from white flour with a variety of whole grains. Wholemeal bread contains mostly of wholegrain wheat flour. The difference between wholemeal and wholegrain is wholemeal is smooth-textured while wholegrain contains bits of the various grains used. The French have brioche and croissants; the Italians have ciabatta or slipper bread, pizza and foccacia; the Germans have their pumpernickel; the Middle East has pita; India has naan; and the United States produces multigrain and cornbread. The wondrous power of mixing ingredients and transforming it into a fragrant loaf is the joy of breadmaking.

Special Pan de Sal

1) Preheat oven 400º F or 200º C.

2) Grease a 14 x 16 x 1–inch baking sheet.

3) Put in a bowl: 1 cup tap water, 1 tbsp yeast, 1 tbsp sugar. Let stand 5 minutes.

4) Add 1/4 cup vegetable lard (shortening) or butter, 1/4 cup powdered milk, 1/2 cup granulated or white sugar, 1/4 tsp fine salt, 2 slightly beaten eggs. Gradually add 3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour. Knead, adding 1 cup more flour. Form into a ball and let rise on greased table or bowl for 25 minutes.

5) Make a 2-inch-thick cylinder (or baston) 24 inches long. Cut into 2-inch pieces. Put on prepared tray. Let rise 25 minutes. Dip your forefinger in all-purpose flour and poke into bread. If it leaves a dent and doesn’t spring back, bake right away at pre-heated 400º F or 200º C oven for 25 minutes. Makes 12 big pan de sal.

6) Note: For dark pan de sal use 1/2 cup brown sugar.