Something to wine about
Four letters make up a word that continues to inspire us, fire us up with courage, love and joy like nothing else on earth; four letters spell what is said to be the cause and solution of the world’s problems; it could be described as possessing an elegant softness, complemented by a firm and elegant body, long legs, beautiful nose and wonderful mouth feel. Four letters and it isn’t a lady, or a dame. The answer to the riddle, as romantic poet Lord Byron once claimed, “cheers the sad, revives the old, inspires the young, and makes weariness forget his toil!” It is W-I-N-E.
Wine could well be the lifeblood that flows through Juan Carlos de Terry’s veins, the soul of one of the premium wine merchants and deli shop owners in the country and the genius behind the success of the highly lauded gourmet restaurant Terry Selection, which was awarded 2008’s Best Spanish Restaurant award by the Manila’s Best Kept Restaurant Secrets Awards. And whether or not vino is the raison d’être for his exceptional talent, he certainly has a hearty passion for good food.
I have been a loyal patron of Terry Selection for years. There are a less than a handful of specialty stores where I can find rare items like my favorites, Tete de Moine, Chorizo Pamplona, Morcilla de Arroz and Jamon Iberico de Bellota. More often than not I find these in his outlets at the Podium or in Pasong Tamo Extension. Terry’s gourmet and wine shop is a wonderland for discriminating chefs, but anyone can delight in his assortment of cheeses, sausages, chef’s gadgets and kitchenware (such as Cazuelas, the finest virgin olive oil) and much more. Of course, wine connoisseurs will point you in his direction if you are looking for the best imported labels. And Doctor Terry (he holds a Ph.D. in oenology, which is the study of all aspects of wine and winemaking) certainly has a nose for it!
Of Spanish descent, Juan Carlos de Terry was born to a large family that has long been in the business of producing brandy and sherry in his native land of Cadiz, Spain. As a child, he enjoyed accompanying his father to work. It is not surprising that later on he took the reins of the family business. He earned his apron from his mother, who was the first to ignite his passion for cooking, further honed by work-related travels around the Iberian Peninsula. This wine master has a gift for fine taste and beauty. His culinary skills are exceptional.
A Spanish saying goes “Con pan y vino se anda el camino” (With bread and wine you can walk your road), and for De Terry, the two are inseparable. For him, food and wine make an ideal marriage, and he has an uncanny knack for pairing the ideal wine to perfectly complement each dish.
I know this all too well, for he recently invited me to a special dinner gathering in Terry Selection to launch a selection of fine wines from the Bodegas Marqués de Cáceres.
The bistro was transformed into a cozy, romantic setting; an indoor tent was set up adorned with flowers, chandeliers and candelabras. And instead of the usual floral centerpiece, a colorful vegetable arrangement, symbolizing bountiful harvests to come, was placed at each table. It was beautifully crafted, I understand, by De Terry’s brother in law, Antonio Garcia, who owns the Mabolo Flower Gallery. To watch Juan Carlos de Terry at work is a joy. A hands-on person, he acted as host, chef, supervisor all at once. In the kitchen, out of the kitchen, onstage, on floor making guests feel downright comfy, he possesses a joie de vivre that radiates through his persona. And if it’s only because of the wine, then, well, I’ll have what he’s having.
The menu was composed of sumptuous Spanish treats. For appetizers, sorbete de manga verde y Jamón de Teruel (green mango sherbet with Jamón de Teruel) was served paired with a Marqués de Cáceres Blanco Viura 2007. A delightful cold soup made with fresh tomatoes, almonds, Bacalao flakes and Jamón de Teruel chips was gratifying, and all those seated with me at my table heartily agreed. It made us look forward to the main course. And for the main course we had lamb shank confit in a tempranillo and thyme reduction with chilindron sauce and a fried garbanzo sage pilaf with a glass of Marqués de Cáceres Reserva 2001 and Marqués de Cáceres Gaudium 2002. The great wine loosened our tongues, gave me a pleasant buzz and made the conversation doubly delicious.
An assortment of fine premium chocolates made for an elegant and decadent finishing touch served with Marqués de Cáceres Semi-Dulce 2006. It was an evening of warmth and fun, with me finding a deeper appreciation of wine. I even learned that imbibing red wine is one of the reasons why the French in general stay fit despite their love for high fatty food, alcohol and cigarettes. What’s more, they have much lower heart disease rates than Americans despite their amour of rich food. It is proven that polyphenols in red wine and the intelligent French use of herbs in cooking help to break down fats in the food and aid digestion. The antioxidant properties of red wine and its moderate but steady intake are a contributing factor to French health.
Understanding the world of wine may seem complicated at first. Wine labels are confusing; everyone has a different opinion about what is best. So, when in doubt, you can always ask the expert himself: Juan Carlos de Terry. He always makes himself available to customers, and is ready to engage you with his magnetic charm, entertain you with stories and guide you into a whole new world of heady tastes. So if you are looking for a place to dine this Valentine’s Day, visit Terry Selection. I’ll raise a glass to that!
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