The women of Ilocos Sur

I am amused by Manang Biday, the classic character that Gloria Romero charmingly brought to life in the glorious days when black-and-white motion pictures were in fashion. The tobacco-chomping Ilocana is the lead character, a no-nonsense woman who gets the job done, whether it’s in the kitchen or putting up with the kontrabidas in her life.  Manang Biday is definitely not your typical demure probinsyana, nevertheless her boldness and gumption are very much alive in the hearts of today’s native Ilocanas, sans the tobacco — in most cases, that is.

Last week, I took a five-day trip to one of my favorite places in the world, Ilocos Sur. I’ve been there countless times. At first, I was captivated by the romantic grandeur of Vigan, but little did I know then that I was just scratching the surface. I am hooked on Vigan and I have made it my mission to visit each of its 32 towns and two cities to explore its unique culinary offerings.

My account will be documented in a book that will not only focus on its food, but will also pay tribute to a breathtaking land of mountains, fields of green and sea, a rich in history and culture, and a fun-loving, hardworking people who are proud of their heritage. Photographer Neal Oshima will shoot the pictures for my book project.  I am always at awe watching him at work.  Neal has such a beautiful and adventurous daughter who, just like dad, would snap shots of anything that piqued her interest.

Our itinerary consisted of visiting mostly the uplands of Ilocos Sur. It was a bumpy trip from Del Pilar to mountainous Sigay but it was worth it. We crossed Buwaya River nine times, traveled through rough terrain and winding roads. We soaked up the scenery, the lush forests, the endless skies, breathing in fresh air and admiring God’s masterpiece.

I marvel at how God has molded the Ilocana. These local women bear their work with such grace.  I saw a woman balancing on her head a bilao loaded with the day’s laundry.  Her walk uphill is tiring but she takes each stride with such poise and nonchalance as if she was strutting on a catwalk. 

At Sigay (its climate and scenery can be likened to Baguio during its pre-commercial days), breakfast was served at the house of the barangay captain. It consisted of delicious and aromatic mountain coffee partly made of soya beans, sapsapuriket,  which is the Ilocano version of dinuguan, tinapang palaka (smoked frog), and  pinaksiw na pikaw, a root crop close to the gabi. The stalks of pikaw were cooked in an earthen pot with bagoong and a can of sardines. These   thick stalks can also  be prepared kilawin style and cooked inside a bamboo (this process is called tinungbo). And guess what the secret ingredient is? A packet off all-flavor seasoning mix! The food is simple but delicious.

In the same afternoon, we headed for Cervantes, the highest point of Ilocos Sur. Its culinary claim to fame is its longganiza called pinuneg and watwat. What makes watwat exceptionally good is the tenderness of the meat and its savory broth. The pig is also blackened (what the Ilocanos refer to as tinuno, where the slaughtered animal is blackened or roasted black). The  woman in charge works for the municipal office and for over 20 years has been catering for the munisipyo.

Here is a classic example of the Ilocano virtue of being masinop in practice. Nothing is spared, nothing goes to waste, as all parts of the pig are cooked and served. The meat is chopped and served as watwat and the innards such as the intestines and liver, too. Even the pig’s blood is used in the pinuneg blood sausage, which tastes like morcilla, a blood sausage you’d find in a deli.

When I was there I saw Cervantes’ colorful women lording over the scene as they went about preparing the dishes.  And to think that they braved the weather and got soaked in the rain while waiting for me and my research team to arrive. Our schedule wasn’t followed because of the weather, which made for an animated and amusing time as the ladies cracked jokes and hammed for the camera.  

At Sta. Lucia, I was amazed at the deftness of Manang Cleofe’s hands as she minced onions for the ampalaya salad — it put the knife skill technique that I teach my students to shame. She would slice the onion with one hand, lengthwise, then proceed to chop it crosswise. Not only did she do it with sheer precision, she was so quick it seemed effortless. And she did it in her hand, which meant she had no need for a chopping board. No mess, no clean-up. Now, how cool is that?

It is innate for the Ilocana to have a healthy sense of humor. Manang Cleofe has been a bookkeeper for quite some time now but has a passion for creating incredible edibles such as her much-requested ampalaya pickles.  When I asked her why not turn her skill into a business, she pondered for a moment and said, “Sometimes, I have no time.” She added that maybe when she stops working, she will have time to take formal cooking lessons…or when the right man comes along.

The maxim that “behind every man’s success is a woman” is not true in Ilocos. What is more accurate is that “for every manong’s success lies in the shadows Manang Biday.”  

In Alilem, Manang Biday is personified by Josephine Bistoyong, wife of town Mayor Onofre Bistoyong.  Among all the towns I’ve visited in the past few days, Alilem got my attention the most.  They prepared a genuine small town feast to make us feel  right at home.  I was so impressed by our sweet hostess who, although she has never taken formal classes in cooking, is a consummate entertainer, friendly yet soft-spoken, commanding and regal, and blessed with a keen sense of aesthetics and an eye for what’s beautiful.   

Late lunch was served by the riverside surrounded by  mahogany trees and accompanied by the chirping of crickets. At that moment — while enjoying natural buko juice and banana sweetened with taga-pulot or organic red sugar in the company of sincere ladies who wanted nothing more than to share their time, blessings and talent — I felt that if there was heaven on earth, this was it. 

In the weeks to come, I will be writing more about the charms of Ilocos Sur and the making of my book, which I’ve tentatively titled Naimas. Meanwhile, enjoy some of the recipes that the women of Alilem shared with me. 

Kalabasa (Squash) Fritter With Ground Meat

Fritters:

6 to 8 cups kalabasa, grated

1/4 kilo ground pork

2 cups all-purpose or cassava flour

4 large eggs, slightly beaten

5 pieces shallots, diced

1 teaspoon black pepper, ground

6 cloves garlic

salt to taste

cooking oil for pan frying

Sauce:

Calamansi

Brown sugar

Chopped garlic

Procedure:

Peel and grate the kalabasa. Saute garlic in little oil. Add ground pork and simmer for five minutes. Remove from heat, then transfer into a mixing bowl and let cool. Add the grated squash and onions.

Prepare batter by mixing the flour, eggs salt and pepper. Form the mixture into small patties then dip in the batter. Panfry until golden brown. Make the sauce by combining the ingredients until blended. Serve with the fritters.

Dinakdakan

1 kilo pork (assorted internal organs: small intestines, liver, tenderloin and brain)

6 pieces shallots, diced

2 tablespoons young ginger, grated

1 teaspoon black pepper, ground

2 to 4 tablespoons calamansi juice

Salt to taste

Procedure:

Boil meat and internal organs for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat. Drain then roast until almost brown. Let cool then slice meat and liver thinly. Cut small intestines, 1/2 inch crosswise. Put sliced meat in a  mixing bowl then add all other ingredients. Mix thoroughly.

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E-mail the author at heny@henysison.com