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A tale of three women and a ‘carinderia’ | Philstar.com
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Food and Leisure

A tale of three women and a ‘carinderia’

A TASTE OF LIFE - Heny Sison -

Petra is a woman of unassuming elegance and simplicity. Her personality is a reflection of her down-home Ilocano cooking. Pilar has a flair for grandeur, evident in the rich, extravagant flavors that characterize her Spanish gourmet specialties. Katrina, their granddaughter, is the bond that ties them together.

Two remarkable women with contrasting tastes but one glorious passion: the desire to spread joy through the pleasures of the table. And this consuming passion, infectious as it is, has been passed on to their apo, Katrina Ponce Enrile, the charming, energetic, and beautiful CEO of JAKA Group of Companies. A world-class food lover with a fine eye for high style, from fashion to food, she still longs for the familiar and comforting aroma of home-style cooking served at her Lola Petra’s house and always recounts the big family gatherings, particularly  the delightful spread at Lola Pilar’s place during Christmas. Tidings of comfort food and joy, indeed.

These guilty food trip pleasures of her youth were the inspiration behind her newest baby, Petra and Pilar, a sophisticated carinderia in the heart of cosmopolitan Makati. It pays homage to her two grandmothers who initiated her into the indulgent art of eating and serves as inspiration to the casual diner’s menu.

I was invited to Petra and Pilar’s opening and true to Lola Petra’s taste, the interiors and tableware were chic yet simple in white.  Undoubtedly, the food was Filipino… the ultimate in Filipino comfort food, or dishes we grew up on. Lola Pilar would probably be proud of her grand daughter if she sampled a taste of what’s being served. During the packed press launch, we had a taste of what’s to come and it was indeed promising. There were the light-yet-filling embotidong bangus and adobo sa puti (yes, sans soy sauce; how often do you get to encounter this traditional Pinoy delish dish served that way?). What I personally liked among the dishes was the “Bombas.” This was ground pork and beef with raisins encrusted in mashed potato and breaded. Looks good, tastes divine!

Of course, I did not want to stuff myself and miss out on dessert because I had to satiate my sweet tooth fix. And the desserts, although not your basic native rice cake or halo-halo coolers, are stars in their own right! We were served a sampler plate of biscotti, San Marco and San Moreno, but what I loved among them all was the lemon squares.

I just realized how blessed I was to live in a time when families really found the time every day to sit down at the dining table together — and Petra and Pilar’s offerings rekindle those fond memories. It is kind of sad to think that, today, the average couple would find it hard to recall the last time their own family gathered around the table for a meal. Work schedules, after-school activities, television, computers, and even church obligations compete for our time.

The place is kind of inconspicuous, located at 2311 Pasong Tamo, Makati. But I feel it will become a regular dining place, likely to be frequented by the young all the way up to the more corporate set.

The prices were affordable at between P70 and P140. Service was fast, just like any turo-turo where you point at what you want to order and pay at the counter. But the food is served at your table.

Also inside the restaurant is Katrina’s Delimondo, a deli with food products produced by JAKA Food companies.

Dining at Petra and Pilar’s offers sophisticated Filipino comfort food that evokes memories of childhood, family, and home. What it feels like to me is the equivalent of a warm hug from my own grandmother — warm, inviting, and emotionally nourishing as well.

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You may e-mail the author at info@henysison.com.

CITY

FOOD

LOLA PETRA

LOLA PILAR

PETRA

PLACE

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