Did you know prisoners invented carbonara?

 “A good meal soothes the soul as it regenerates the body.” – Frederick W. Hackwood, Good Cheer (1911)   

During my classes at the Italian Institute for Advance Culinary and Pastry Arts under chef and director John Nocita in Calabria, Italy, the topic of modern Italian cuisine came up. One of the many recipes recently introduced was spaghetti carbonara. Not known to many, chef John explained that the term carbonara literally means “burnt spaghetti” and came about during the Second World War, wherein American soldiers would give bacon and eggs to their Italian prisoners for breakfast every day. The food became redundant and the captive soldiers decided to cook the bacon in a pot and later removed it, leaving the oil to be tossed with pasta and raw eggs while cooked over charcoal to give “the smoky, burnt flavor.” Leftover cheese and previously cooked crispy bacon were used for toppings to make the dish complete. This twist made the meal taste better and is another example of a recipe created by simple experimentation.

The “nouvelle cuisine” was brought to the United States and became an instant hit with cream, butter and other ingredients added to give variety and more flavor. Here in the Philippines the light sauce has evolved into a thick sauce, with flour, heavy cream and mushrooms added to give more texture. Whether traditional or the Philippine version, it is important to note that the pasta must be piping hot to help cook the raw eggs. The use of low heat or turning off the fire when stirring in the cheese will maintain its rich quality. Good instant pasta can stand on its own, without oil being added to the water, because this type has less flour content and will not stick together. For fresh pasta, oil can be added because this has higher flour content. Salt or an instant cube is mixed in boiling water to give the pasta more flavor.

Chef John Nocita’s Spaghetti Carbonara

1) 250 grams (1/4 kilo) bacon cut into 1-inch pieces, 1/3 cup butter, 1/2 cup white wine (optional), 4 eggs (1cup eggs), 1 cup all-purpose cream, 450 grams spaghetti, 1 gallon water with 1 tbsp. rock salt to cook spaghetti, 1 cup parmesan cheese, 1 tsp. each of fine salt and coarsely ground pepper.

2) Cook the pasta in boiling water uncovered until al dente. Drain. Cook the bacon over medium heat in a 12-inch deep skillet until bacon is crisp. Set aside the bacon. Add the butter and wine to the skillet and cook 1 to 2 minutes. Add the pasta and cook until hot.

3) Mix the eggs, cream, salt and pepper in a bowl and add to number 2. Turn off the heat. Keep mixing until pasta is coated with the cream.

4) Add half of the cheese and bacon. Toss well. Transfer to a platter. Top with the remaining cheese and bacon. Serves.

Philippine-Style Spaghetti or Fettuccini Carbonara 1

1) Cook 450 grams spaghetti or fettuccini pasta (cook in 1 gallon boiling water with 1 tbsp. rock salt, uncovered, according to package directions, then drain); 250 grams bacon (cook until crispy), leaving bacon oil in pan; 1/3 cup butter; 1 beef or chicken cube; 6 pieces Chinese or Japanese Shitake mushrooms (soak in water 15 minutes, drain, then slice into strips); 1/2 cup all-purpose flour, 2 cups water, 1 cup all-purpose cream, 1 tsp. each fine salt and pepper, 200 grams of Magnolia Quickmelt Cheese (grated).

2) Add butter to the pan with the bacon oil, chicken or beef cube, then mushrooms. Stir 2 minutes.

3) Add flour. Mix with wire whisk. Pour in water, all-purpose cream, salt, pepper. Mix with wire whisk until creamy. Turn off fire and toss in pasta and half the cheese and bacon. Pour on platter. Top with bacon and remaining cheese.

4) Note: 1 cup canned button mushrooms or asparagus or mixed vegetables may be used in placed of shitake mushrooms.

Easy Philippine-Style Spaghetti Carbonara

1) Use 225 grams spaghetti (cook in salted boiling water according to package directions; drain.); 1/2 cup butter; 290 grams cream of mushroom soup; 1 1/2 cups fresh milk; 1/2 tsp. each of salt and pepper; 1/2 cup Magnolia Cheezee Sauce.

2) For topping: 1 cup sliced sweet ham cut into 1-inch cubes or 1/2 cup cooked bacon.

3) Put in a deep 12-inch sauté (frying) pan the butter, mushroom soup, milk, salt, pepper, Cheezee Sauce. Stir over medium heat with a wire whisk until simmering. Toss in Pasta. Pour on platter. Top with ham. Serves 2 to 3.

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