Under the Ilocos sun

Last Holy Week, I found myself back in the arms of charming, culinary-rich Ilocos Sur. I was invited by my good friend, Ilocos Sur Governor DV Savellano, to visit his dream project, a 16- hectare farm he calls Barang-ay (rang-ay means progress in Ilocano). Situated in the town of San Juan, it will be developed as a progressive demo-farm.

The Governor explains that this project is not only aimed at improving farm productivity and increasing the income of farmers. It is also geared towards solving bigger problems such as lack of jobs, poverty, and malnutrition.

After my Ilocos Sur sojourn, I can either blame or thank Governor DV for getting me hooked on the Ilocano bug. This has bit me, so that I am now hooked on the taste of smoky poqui- poqui for breakfast. (Sounds naughty, but this is an absolutely tasty mashed eggplant.) I constantly crave for bagnet and Vigan longganisa, and long for the lulling effect of the sound of Cabugao’s ocean waves to put me to sleep. Whether Ilocos Sur likes it or not, I now want to be known as its adopted native daughter.

 When you talk about Ilocano hospitality, no one embodies it better than Winona Santos, the indefatigable, animated Chief of Staff of the Governor who knows Ilocos Sur tourism by heart. She was responsible for making sure that our stay in Ilocos Sur was immensely enjoyable.

Before the tour of the governor’s vast plantation, I enjoyed interesting conversation and a hearty Ilocano lunch showcasing the farm’s fresh produce. Among the conversation highlights were raves about the spread-eagled lechon or roasted native pig served with its blood turned into a dipping sauce. Sounds morbid, but it’s true. But once you get past the thought, it is actually really delectable. It was also my first time to taste malunggay stalks that were blanched in a slightly sweet broth.

I was with good company. My college batchmate Queenie, who is the governor’s sister, their relatives and close friends were there. Chef Luis, who teaches French cuisine in my cooking school, was also present. He might soon be tempted to teach Ilocano cuisine, seeing as he developed such an addiction to the lethal, but delicious bagnet. He had it for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Ayaw magpasaway!

It really is amazing how good food buoys the spirits and bonds people together. On that lovely afternoon, there was hardly any talk of politics or intrigues. Everyone was in good spirits. Naturally, picture taking was a favorite activity since there were smiles all around.

It was later on in the day when I found myself on Pinakbet Avenue. This is what Gov. DV proudly calls this strip planted to the components of the famous Ilocano dish. For me, however, it was more like a road to Nirvana. I stood, giddy like a kid on a field trip, amid row upon row of vegetables ripe for the picking. In this green field of dreams, ampalaya road turns to katuray lane that in turn leads to saluyot boulevard. As a staunch advocate of the miracle vegetable, I was especially happy to see an area devoted to malunggay. Although the farm is barely 100 days old, it has really grown quickly.

I was thrilled to find a field of sunflowers, with heads as big as my own, and an area devoted to sorghum. Gov. DV explained that sunflower seeds and sorghum are components of the feed for goats and cattle in the farm. It was also interesting to see native pigs grazing freely instead of being packed in cramped pens. Aside from stables for goats and horses, there are coops for poultry. Soon to be built are fishponds, green houses, a mini nursery, botanical garden, tree farm, livestock farm. There are also plans to go into mushroom production. It is definitely a return to Ilocos Sur’s agricultural roots.

But Ilocos Sur is not solely farmlands. The province’s Cabugao Beach Resort can be called the Boracay of the North for its white sandy beaches and crystal-clear water. It is heaven for the tribe of sun worshippers. And although I am not one of them, the roar of the ocean waves seems to have a calming effect on me.