Cooking is at once child’s play and adult joy. And cooking done with care is an act of love. — Craig Claiborne, Craig Claiborne’s Kitchen Primer
We had just finished our morning culinary class at the Ecole Ritz Escoffier Paris, when our classmates Sachiko Okawa and Aimee Chee from Hong Kong wanted to have lunch at Alain Ducasse’s Restaurant at the prestigious Hotel Plaza Athenee. Knowing this is one of the best and premier gourmet destinations, this was a chance of a lifetime. The problem was you needed a two-month advance reservation for a small group and a year for a large party, but since we were staying at the Ritz, considered one of the best hotels in the world, we asked the concierge if there was any possibility we could get a table within the day. He gave us a huge smile and said, “Monsieur, this is the Ritz, may I give you an answer in 10 minutes?”
The Ritz being Ritz, it took less than five minutes for the concierge to call that we have a 12:15 lunch reservation. We thanked him for his effort and gave a huge tip for doing the impossible. Carlo Benedicto and I proceeded to our rooms, fixed ourselves, and met our lady friends at the lobby. We all hopped aboard a Benz limo and took the 10-minute drive.
The dress code was formal, where the men had to be in suits, in this 30-seater restaurant. We were warmly greeted by the receptionist who guided us to our table at the center of the restaurant. The restaurant has very high ceilings, tall mirrors at the center and sides of the room, huge glittering chandeliers, and classic French fixtures. The servers were in tuxedos, the cutleries sparkling, and the table setting perfect down to the last detail. The set menu was in French and all four of us decided to order everything so we could compare each dish and get the chance to try every item served — from caviar to truffles and foie gras. The presentation of each dish was impressive, an artwork with the plate as its medium of expression, highlighting the finest in the French culinary world. The taste, especially of the foie gras with pigeon, was exceptional, using an array of spices without overpowering the natural flavors of the food and still retaining its soft, creamy texture. No wonder he is the Alain Ducasse to the world!
To celebrate the occasion, Carlo ordered a bottle of Moet et Chandon while complimentary French macaroons and chocolates were given just before the dessert, consisting of the place’s three bestsellers. After our feast that set us back by 300 euros each or roughly P19,000, we returned to the Ritz and saw the concierge. We exchanged pleasantries and he asked how our lunch was. We told him it was the best! I had to go back to my room to get ready for my afternoon class, but before we left, we requested if he could reserve a table at Hotel Costes’ lounge bar for drinks that night. Again, with a huge smile, he said, “Monsieur, this is the Ritz, may I give you an answer in 10 minutes?”
We laughed and true enough, Ritz being Ritz, we got our reservation, but that’s an altogether different experience. is another experience all together.
French Vanilla Cream
Prepare 6-1/2 capacity ramekins or custard cups. You may also use 12 demitasse cups (tiny coffee cups available at the lower ground level, houseware section, SM Megamall B, Mandaluyong). If using custard cups, grease bottom and sides with softened butter.
1 vanilla bean, cut lengthwise and split into two. Scrape off the seeds (available at Santi’s, Rustan’s Fresh, Rockwell) or use 2 tsps. vanilla extract, 2 Tbsps. unflavored gelatin, 2 cups Magnolia fresh milk, 1 cup cold all-purpose cream, 3/4 granulated sugar.
Optional accompaniment: 1 jar (1/2 cup) Magnolia Best Fruits mango or apple cinnamon jam. Heat over low fire with 3 Tbsps. water. Put in a sauceboat.
Put the vanilla seeds or extract in a medium bowl with the unflavored gelatin, sugar, milk. Let stand for five minutes to allow the gelatin to bloom or expand. Then put the bowl over a pan with two inches deep of boiling water. Stir with a wire whisk until simmering. Remove from fire and add cold all-purpose cream. Mix with wire whisk. Pour on prepared molds. Refrigerate until firm, about one hour.
Dip the bottom of each 1/2 capacity mold in hot water for one minute. Unmold on dessert plate. Note: if using demitasse cups, serve as is with its accompanying underliner (plate) and a teaspoon. Decorate with mint leaves, if desired.
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