Grilled to perfection with leaping flames

If the peach-mint shake was to be the standard, we were almost certain that the dishes served at The Madison Grill in TriNoma would be superior. The pale green colored shake made with fresh mint leaves was light, delicious and refreshing, without the cloying sweetness that comes with an overload of fresh, overripe or canned, sweetened peaches. We sipped on the lovely drink while waiting for the entrees, and appreciated the bright, modern and airy feel of the place.

Unlike the usual cramped steakhouse that features dark wood, the interiors of the restaurant allow you to breathe. The “leaping flames” element of the light fixtures was deliberate to “allude to the grill aspect in most of the food preparation.” We were also informed that the design and interiors resulted from the collaboration between respected designer Ivy Almario and Strategic Brands Network (SBN), the company that also introduced brands like Oliver’s Super Sandwiches, Häagen-Dazs Ice Cream, Max Brenner Chocolate Bar, Zing! Juice Bar, Teas & Therapy, and Scoozu Cantina Italiana to the Philippines. The couple behind SBN — Arnold and Ruth Co — are known to be world citizens with impeccable taste; and thus, it was not unusual that their newest venture had a tasteful, upbeat and contemporary feel.

We were invited to assemble our own pizzas. One attraction of Madison Grill is that it allows diners to create their own “signature pizzas” using various toppings. For families with young offspring, this should be a welcome activity, especially since enthusiasm almost always whets the children’s appetites. However, one should exercise some degree of control in applying the toppings. Too much can make the thin, crisp crusts droop, making the pizza wet and soggy. Moreover, the flavors of the toppings may become indistinct or clash with each other with indiscriminate mixing of ingredients. For those who would rather let the chefs prepare the pizza, there are several combinations: Five cheese/arugula/Granny apple shreds/walnuts (P295 for 10-inch and P420 for 16-inch pizza); smoked Scottish salmon/herb cheese asparagus (P360 and P475 for 10- and 16-inch, respectively); and prosciutto/prawns/marinated artichokes (P295 and P420). One may also prefer a Philippine version with toppings such as Lucban longganisa/salted egg/quesong puti.

We tried an appetizer of warm salad asparagus, soft-boiled eggs and truffle hollandaise (P280 to share), seared tuna carpaccio, Niçoise salad and fried noodles (P280 for small) and an attractively colored smoked mozzarella, tomato, orange and arugula salad (P280 for sharing). The vegetables were fresh and crisp, and the tuna was seared to perfection. The spiced crab corn cakes with pickled cucumber and served with chili or kaffir dressing (P195) would be interesting to have next time, while the pan-seared foie gras with apple tart tatin and balsamic syrup (P750) would most certainly be excellent.

The house signature dishes that our group shared did not disappoint. Crispy duck confit with orange infused balsamic glaze and vegetable risotto (P595) was obviously slow-cooked to perfection, with the meat absorbing all the rich flavors and the risotto cooked to the right degree of doneness. Slow-cooked chicken breast, tomato tarte tatin, salsa verde and olive chicken jus (P365) transformed the ordinary white meat of chicken breast into a flavorful, yet healthy dish. Hearty braised lamb shanks in oriental spices (P440) was served with fragrant coconut rice and baked seabass (P795) was spiked by a lemongrass lobster sauce.

The menu shows various international influences and along with a classic lobster bisque (P295), one can enjoy pastas for sharing: squid ink linguini and vongole (P300), grilled seafood, pappardelle, tomato vodka sauce (P420) and others. The sandwich selection lists what is called an “ultimate burger” made with Angus beef, jack cheese, bacon and breaded onions (P695) and a healthy grilled eggplant, butternut and red capsicum with hummus (P295). One may prefer a sandwich of smoked salmon on cream cheese with caper raisin marmalade (P295) or grilled steak Wagyu and Portobello mushroom (P695). Whatever sandwich you choose, you can be sure that the bread is excellent. Soft multi-grain, ciabatta and sourdough are baked daily in the restaurant’s kitchen. Moreover, if one is unfamiliar with some terms or food combinations, the restaurant is a good means of gastronomic acculturation, which, in plain and simple language amounts to educating the taste buds. Expectedly, all entrees are delicious because the best ingredients are used and since chef Sau del Rosario heads the kitchen.

Still, the stars of the Madison Grill are its steaks, and discerning meat eaters have no cause to complain. Only the best cuts are available and one can choose from American-style Kobe, Australian, certified Angus beef and premium Wagyu. Although Wagyu was once raised only in Kobe, Japan, the cattle are now raised all over the world. Because of extensive marbling of the meat, it is extremely rich, tender and flavorful. It is no wonder then that the premium cuts of meat command considerable prices.

Since Wagyu is wasted if cooked improperly, one has to watch carefully while it is cooking. Overcooking dries up the steaks because fat leaches out, and the cuts become like any other ordinary piece of meat. Happily, the steaks are cooked perfectly at the Madison Grill and the diner is able to fully appreciate the excellence of his steak.

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The Madison Grill is located at the third floor, TriNoma Mall, Edsa corner North Avenue, Quezon City. For reservations and inquiries, call 934-1572, or e-mail themadisongrill@strategic brandsnetwork.com. Visit its website at www.strategicbrandsnetwork.com.