Gourmet treats for mall goers

Enter the lower levels of a mall, the deep recesses of retail heaven, and more often than not, that’s where you’ll find their version of a food court. It’s where the eateries that don’t enjoy street access and late hours have to ply their business –where the most common denominators of food concepts are comfort food and franchise frenzy. However, at the Rockwell Power Plant, one establishment is fast gaining a reputation as being the maverick of food court eateries, catering to the more discriminating palate, even if nestled near the center of the mall’s Concourse. Myron’s Steaks Ribs & Seafood is that oddity, a godsend for the "casual gourmet."

With my own tropa of "gourmets," my three sons, we recently enjoyed a lunch at Myron’s, one that had them eagerly hoping a second round would come very soon. The brainchild of Mon Eugenio, his wife Monica Papa-Eugenio, and partner Mel Resuma, Myron’s brings together a wealth of culinary experience and prowess. Mon used to manage the Cheval Blanc at the Shang, while Monica and Mel have had stints at The Tivoli of the Mandarin Oriental, Manila. Monica has even apprenticed under famed master pastry chef Jacques Torres of Le Cirque in New York. With this kind of brain trust, is it any wonder that despite its location, there’s kitchen wizardry and really inventive dishes at Myron’s?

For starters, my boys and I feasted on the coconut curried vegetable samosas with orange chili dip, the baked oysters Rockefeller and the one with foie gras, and the mesclun salad with seared sesame crusted ahi tuna and miso dressing. The curry flavor of the samosas was really mild, so the kids took to them with zest. Luca, who is seven, pronounced the salad great because the ahi tuna was "just like maguro sashimi." Quintin, age 15, and Matteo, 12, finished two orders of the oysters – a total of 12 pieces, just by themselves. So, I guess that’s approval enough! Matteo even topped his starter course with a mushroom cappuccino.

While the steak specialty of the house is the Angus rib eye, with one version topped by pan-seared foie gras, the one I really liked was the Argentinean beef tenderloin. The tenderloin was a generous slab and really hit the spot. The Australian bone-in lamb chops and baby back ribs with mustard-bourbon sauce also come highly recommended, as are the seafood and pasta menu items. Quintin was excited to return, and try the Surf and Turf Kebabs. Mon waxed rhapsodic about the Angus corned beef and how the corning, with its special seasoning, takes over seven days. This same corned beef is used in their Reuben sandwiches.

Leave room for the desserts that are all blessed with a unique twist, thanks to Monica. There’s an Earl Grey dark chocolate mousse with orange peel (the Earl Grey provides the whiff of bergamot), a Fourme d’Ambert crème brulée (D’Ambert is an extremely light blue cheese), and old-fashioned bread pudding with dark caramel ice cream. All really yummy!

There’s also an extensive wine list that proves food court dining does not have to be a plethora of franchised fast-food options and sodas, but can also be a genuine culinary experience. With price points that stay reasonable, given the selection and quality of their items, Myron’s is making very sure of that.