Five Guys go In and Out the Nations

Did you know that if you say you want a hamburger in Hamburg, you might get a German from Hamburg and not a sandwich? That the first hamburger was made in America by Americans and not by Hamburgers in Hamburg? That the first hamburger chain was White Castle with five outlets in 1921? That today, there are over 30,000 McDonald’s in 121 countries? That in 2001, Indians threw cow dung and shouted slogans against McDonald’s when it failed to disclose the fact that beef fat was being used for frying fries sold in India? That even Americans now eat our Jollibee burgers in the States?

Growing up in the Sixties, I used to wonder what was so great about hamburgers. What kid then was not attracted to Wimpy in Popeye every time he followed the smell of burgers wafting in the air on their black and white TV? And what kid then did not wish he was waiting with the other blond kids as their dad grilled delicious-looking burgers on those American family picnics on TV? And who did not wonder why the only wish of Jughead of Archie comic books after finishing a high pile of burgers and winning a hamburger eating contest was to eat more burgers? "Kanyaman da siguro," I told my mom.

I thought then that hamburger was the best food on earth. For us then, to eat hamburgers meant to make them at home. McDo and Jollibee were still unheard of. Every family’s version of hamburger was different and, sad to say, there was none that got me hooked on it like Wimpy and Jughead were. So, I just concluded that only Americans liked hamburgers. And that the Kapampangan putung babi – literally pork bread – was far better than the American hamburger.

Putung babi (my husband Claude Tayag calls it palaman) is a comfort food for many of us in Pampanga. I do not know if other regions have something like it, but if one claims to be a true Kapampangngan and does not like putung babi, he is lying for sure. It is a sliced pandesal, topped with tortang babi (sautéed ground pork) and mashed potato, then dipped in beaten egg and fried. In our elementary and high school days, we paid five to 15 centavos for one putung babi and ate it with dripping catsup and cold soda. My mom loved it with her black coffee.

Years ago when I was based in Hong Kong, I often brought putung babi for my office snack. My Pinay colleagues, who were not Kapampangan, were seeing and tasting putung babi for the first time! I found it strange.

"We have been eating this since we were kids," I said.

The foreigners also liked it very much. My Japanese friend put on it togarashi, while my Malaysian friend put sambal. And since only us Pinays and the Indonesians could remember the name putung babi, they named it Philippine pizza. Pretty soon, we were eating putung babi with different spices, and my friends started to order them to bring home to their families. Putung babi transformed my ache (manang) into a businesswoman, an exporter at that.

Today, we put togarashi or Tabasco instead of catsup. And as Claude is guilty of exaggerating everything, especially with his food, he topped it once with Parmesan cheese, and we enjoyed it with Merlot. Until today, putung babi is one of my favorites. We bring it to the cemetery for snack on All Saints’ Day, and it is still commonly served in the barrios, especially during wakes.

And I was for many decades happy and resigned to my childish conclusion that Wimpy and Jughead only like hamburgers because they have not tried our putung babi.

That was until our Kapampangan friend Raffy Angeles told me recently that during his college days, he was dared to eat one Big Mac for lunch and another for dinner for two weeks. On the 10th day, they got tired of watching him devour Big Macs. "Pinaglihi yata ako sa hamburger," he said.

Until today, without fail, he hand-carries at least 20 burgers from his US trips. He separates the patty from the bread and safeguards them like precious possessions in-flight. When he reaches Angeles, he said, the 20 burgers are gone in 20 minutes, eaten by his brothers, wife and children waiting in the kitchen."

"Correction," he said. "I would bring home 19 burgers, because I would eat one on my way home."

I hate Raffy for disturbing my putung babi-versus-hamburger peace. On a recent US trip, I urged my LA-based cousin Cherie Perez to join me on a burger hunt, hoping to discover what it is that Wimpy, Jughead and Raffy find that escapes our palate. We agreed to try only family-owned burger joints in different cities.

In Washington, DC, our cousins Avita DLC and Gene Garcia took us to 5 Guys. Their patties are advertised as being shaped by hand and not by machine. I ordered a cheeseburger and it came bigger than a CD – each sandwich has two burger patties inside. All

5 Guys burgers come with two patties. They have a real all-beef taste, it’s almost like eating a pure burger steak. But they are greasy and the bun gets soggy even just after the first bite. The fries are fresh, not the frozen kind, and are served with catsup, hot sauce, barbecue, malt vinegar and Cajun dips. 5 Guys nicely gives free roasted peanuts while you wait.

5 Guys has had many favorable food reviews. And if you want your burger really big with real beef taste and do not mind the grease, you will certainly like 5 Guys. At over $4 a burger, it was voted the best bargain restaurant in Washington, DC for 2000 and 2001.

In Los Angeles, we tried the more popular In and Out with our cousin Jae Espanta. We all ordered double cheeseburger set meals. The burgers are much smaller than the 5 Guys burgers. The french fries are also fresh, though they are only served with catsup. The patty tastes much lighter and less beefy than that at 5 Guys, but the bun and lettuce stay deliciously crisp until the last bite.

If you prefer a lighter and less greasy burger, this will please you more than the 5 Guys burgers. An In and Out double cheeseburger costs $2.75.

In San Francisco, my cousin Fe Santos took us and our good friend Stephanie Dizon to Nations. I could tell by their faces that none of them was keen on having another burger. But they were just being nice to me, their demanding guest, and in exchange I should mention their names if ever I write an article about hamburgers. Hmm, my equally demanding nice friends.

Nations’ burgers are 3/4-pound patties each. Again, I ordered a double cheeseburger. As in 5 Guys, you can very well taste the beef, but Nations’ burger is not as heavy and greasy. And only at Nations do they serve Tabasco. But the downside is the french fries are the frozen kind. Nations’ double cheeseburger costs $3.90.

"I think I am beginning to like burgers because each tastes better than the previous one," I said."

"So, which one do you like best," my cousin Cherie asked.

"5 Guys is too heavy for my taste. I think I like best of all the beef patty of Nations and the crisp bread of In and Out. The rest are not even worth considering," I said while slowly analyzing.

"Wanna try another burger now?" Cherie asked on our way to the airport for my flight home."

"Please, I want putung babi now." I said fast without thinking. That is when I realized my taste buds are still very Pinoy. And sorry, Raffy, I will have putung babi anytime over American hamburgers, the Spanish pecadillo or even the French croque monsieur.