It’s all rare at Hai Shin Lou
September 16, 2004 | 12:00am
That’s a sea mantis!" exclaimed Hai Shin Lou Seafood King Chinese Restaurant general manager Ben Chong, as I awkwardly inquired about the extremely odd-looking creature that was on a plate before me.
I replied with a somber "Oh, how interesting," trying to hide my entomophobic tendencies (a general fear of insects). A larger and definitely more peculiar looking praying mantis would probably be the best way to describe this creepy crustacean.
"It comes from Palawan," Chong adds. "We serve it peppercorn-fried and we are one of the very rare restaurants in the country to feature it in our menu."
Rare is one of the words that would definitely be used in defining Hai Shin Lou – delightfully rare. Since this restaurant opened five years ago, it has consistently drawn praise from many of its guests. The restaurant was originally called Hei Shin Rou, and was changed to its current name as many thought the former sounded too Japanese. On the other hand, Hai Shin Lou means seafood restaurant in Mandarin.
It was definitely Chinese fine dining for me as I savored (perhaps gregariously devoured would be more apt?) on roasted suckling pig, seaweed century egg salad and a very tasty bamboo pith soup with homemade special fish meat for starters. The main entrees were spicy shrimp Szechuan-style, very moist diced fish fried rice with kutchay and shrimp paste, the Chinese staple sweet and sour pork and my personal favorite, oil-simmered lapu-lapu – vary tasty fresh fish fried to a crunchy crisp and simmered in a delicate oil sauce.
Excited to come back to try out their other dishes, I inquired about the favorites of regular guests. Chong mentioned that they are proud to have as guests on a regular basis a number of the country’s illustrious Chinese taipans who take their dining to a very haute level. I promised not to mention their names, but let’s just say that quite a number of major shopping mall deals were probably made over power lunches here. Chong replied that one of their taipan patrons always makes sure that they always have their large Palawan oyster before he comes for his meal. Other popular dishes are the prawn taro fried rice, roasted duck, pork asado, white chicken, pork brisket and lobster cooked in many different ways.
The restaurant also boasts offerings of unique and tasty dishes. Their seafood shabu shabu is served with a pot that contains two freshly made soup stocks in different compartments wherein guests cook their food. Chong said this is Hong Kong-style shabu shabu. Most restaurants in Manila that offer shabu shabu serve theirs on a sizzling plate or stone. Other items on the menu that piqued my curiosity included the bamboo pith with seafood thick soup, marinated pork intestine, steamed bakla crab with garlic (I wonder how one finds out if a crab is gay?) and peppercorned boneless eel.
Hai Shin Lou is also one of the very few Chinese restaurants that do not use MSG in their cooking. To make certain that repeat guests never tire of their menu, the restaurant’s three Hong Kong Cantonese chefs regularly offer chef’s recommendations, a monthly menu of special dishes not found on the regular a la carte menu.
Given this restaurant’s rare and divine offerings, one would think dining at Hai Shin Lou would be reserved for those with equally rare large pockets. I’m amusingly surprised that one would not need to spend a fortune to have a very satisfactory feast at this establishment. Starters average at P240 for small portions, while main courses average at P280.
To meet its ever-growing number of patrons, Hai Shin Lou underwent a major renovation late last year. The resulting look is pleasantly simple, modern and streamlined, not your typical Chinese dining establishment with the usual gold and porcelain decor. The place is large considering that it can accommodate over 300 guests — 120 downstairs and about 200 guests upstairs. There are also six rooms for private functions and parties.
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