Dining without compromise

It’s a new restaurant at Greenbelt 2. It faces Esperanza St. and it’s simply called 12.

The brainchild of Elbert Cuenca, with interiors courtesy of partner Ed Calma, the other individuals involved in the enterprise are financial partner Jean-Henri Lhuillier and resident chef Noel Silverio.

It may seem strange to write about a dining establishment and start off with an architectural anecdote. But, read on, and you’ll understand why.

During one of their first meetings, Ed brought a scale model of the interiors of the restaurant. As he moved to pick up some papers, the model was inadvertently brushed off the table and, falling, it got dented. Rather than take this as some omen, Ed noticed the now undulating aspect of the ceiling and pronounced it a solution to the acoustic problems they were facing. This unconventional ceiling is now what you see when you enter 12. In fact, given the floor-to-ceiling glass windows, it’s in plain sight as you drive along Esperanza St.

Ed recounts, "We were ready to evolve as things progressed, to move with the changes that were necessary. But there was a vision and that vision was a constant. There is no compromise on that matter. We wanted the interiors to be sleek, very modern, but still comfortable. Other than shades of gray, black and white, the only color that punctuates the restaurant is the green in the vases hanging on the walls and the single stemmed red rose that’s by the door. As the waiters are also in black and white, we allowed the head waiter to be in another color just to mark him."

It’s all in the detail. Even the straws are uniformly black and white. The upholstery retains the gray motif and one almost feels this is a fine dining restaurant out of NASA, the upper floor akin to some capsule or space age cocoon. If Ed had planned something different, he’s certainly produced it. The contradictions fly – sterile yet warm, intimidating yet inviting.

As for the dining element, Elbert has this to say: "Again, the aim was to create something unique. Only time will tell if it will be successful, but we’re sticking to the vision. There are many good chefs in Manila who have never been exposed here in Makati. So, we have Noel as resident chef, coming up with the basic menu. But every month, starting in November, we’ll have a different chef supplementing Noel. They’ll be featured via their physical presence or through some dishes they’ll allow us to execute in their names. Gene Gonzalez, Henry Canoy, the list goes on. While the rest of Metro Manila may be aware of them, whether because of circumstances or just opportunity, they’ve never been showcased here in Makati. This we hope to change through 12."

It’s akin to the DJ culture that we now find in the clubs around Manila. You have resident DJs but on any given night, you give a different mood and variety to your patrons by having a guest DJ come in and spin for a couple of hours. Expand on that idea, apply it to dining and you’ll see this is what Elbert had in mind.

For now, it’s Noel’s menu that is piquing the interest of diners. A free-style philosophy rules 12’s kitchen. It’s a heady mix of various influences given novel twists and permutations by the chef’s creativity. It may be described as continental, still European, but not in the classic school.

"We don’t want to label it fusion or nouvelle, as there are already set ideas in people’s minds on what that cuisine will taste like. One really has to come, examine the menu, and let his imagination flow, just as the chef did. If you find elements that seem off your palate, we’re ready to modify or suit it according to your preference. The menu is there as your starting point," Elbert adds.

And what a starting point it is in itself. For starters, the petite ostrich steak tartare was my choice. I shared it with my 11-year-old son, and surprise, surprise, he actually liked it. The closest to a salad would be the bleu cheese tart with mesclun, grape and pistachio nuts with a balsamic citrus vinaigrette. The shiitake and button mushroom cream soup is one of the best in this town, and given that the dish is basic, that’s saying a lot. They don’t scrimp on the mushrooms, and the flavor is very evident.

For the main course, I can recommend the grilled prawn, scallop and halibut in crab bisque, sauce rouille and crabfat rice. The rice comes wrapped in nori, just like a temaki cone. The grilled Australian ribeye is in sauce espagnole, sea urchin butter and curried rice.

If I had to register an early complaint, it would be that the sauce for the grilled prawn etc. and the roasted salmon en croute with sauce armoricain, which a companion ordered, were too similar. Now comes the weird part, I also ordered the curry braised lamb shoulder with saffron rice and grilled vegetables. My three-year old son actually wiped this out for me. The lamb morsels were very tender and as the curry was very light, this dish actually became a child-friendly one.

There is no children’s menu. Inevitably, given its location, they will be entertaining family diners, so it’ll be each family’s resourcefulness that will decide which dishes will appeal to their kids.

For dessert, the baklava is sinful, so indulge. And if you come late at night or just want to drop by for a drink or to listen to modern jazz that wafts through the place, it’s the upstairs lounge (Ed’s floating pod) where you’ll be seated. The volume of the music is such that conversation is still given preference.

The price points aimed at are for having a full lunch for less than P500 and maintaining dinner tabs for less than a thousand.

With the unconventional choice of music, the interiors and the food that’s on offer, 12 is definitely making a statement. The jury may still be out on whether such a concept will click from a business point of view, but that it’s in our face and has made dining in Greenbelt notches more interesting cannot be denied. It’s thanks to visions such as this and execution without compromise, that dining can once again be an adventure.

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For inquiries and reservations, call 12 at 757-4568.