In defense of the pig

Yes, you’ve heard it right. I’ve come to the defense of these much misunderstood creatures. No, I don’t mean the guy who made a rather lewd remark about what you wore last night at the party nor the homebody who practically lives on the living room couch, loading up on junk food 24/7 as if he existed solely for this purpose.

Rather, this article pays tribute to the genuine article: the pig, the domesticated farm animal. To be used as a colloquial term, referring to a glutton, a sexist or a greedy, narrow-minded person, is a grave injustice, because they are actually innocent, guileless creatures without a hint of malice or a mean streak in their bones. And they have served our tables well, pork being a staple in most Filipino households, and tagged the label "the other white meat" by the Pork Producers Associations of the United States.

But why do I whine over matters regarding the swine? Well, I just had to bring it up because of my new found respect for it as a gourmet delight.

In my last trip to Italy, I stumbled upon this popular street fare called the Porchetta (pronounced POR-Ke-Tah), a suckling pig that has been deboned and stuffed with wild fennel, rosemary, white wine, salt and pepper then baked in a wood-fired oven. I saw it dressed up on display by a window and it surely looked appetizing. I assumed it to be the Italian version of the lechon, but after a bite of this meat, I assure you it’s much more than that. Its zesty taste left me craving for this tender and juicy treat.

Porchetta is popular throughout Italy, particularly in Rome. I actually had the first pleasurable encounter with it at Porchetta da Tonino, a quaint but highly frequented kiosk in Fiumicino near Rome’s airport.

"Add salt to the pig and you make money," is the philosophy of the food stand’s owner, who is already in a third generation porchettaro in the family business. The Porchetta is carved into slices and served as a sandwich. And indulging in one is indeed a food adventure worthy of mention, because it is too good to keep to myself I have to share it with you, fellow foodies.

You may call it déjà vu, but I had the gratifying experience of encountering it once again.

I was enjoying a stroll through the sidewalk of Megamall’s latest attraction, the Megastrip, glancing at the different restos that have made their home there, when, lo and behold, in one of the display windows, was a luscious roasted pig strung up and artistically decked into a mouthwatering visual delight.

It was a Porchetta staring back at me, as if beckoning me to come in and partake of it once again.

As I looked at the restaurant’s signage, I wasn’t surprised to discover that it was Cibo Rapido, Margarita "Gaita" Fores’ latest food venture, that was carrying this meaty treat. If somebody had to educate the Filipino palate on Porchetta and other things Italian, it would be this indefatigable lady, who’s such a connoisseur on Italian food, who, by the way, was also born in the year of the pig. No wonder she has also a soft spot in her heart for this delicious creature.

At Cibo Rapido, Porchetta is served two ways. It is either served sandwiched, inside duro or hard bread, which is a creation of Alvin Lim, Margaritas’ better half and Café Bola partner, or Morbido bread, which is soft and crusty, or with mushroom rice pilaf. It also comes with three different dips. There’s maionese (a zesty and spirited version of mayonnaise), the traditional liver sauce spiked with red wine, and a sweet and tarty fruit dip, which is made of chopped apples, pears and dried figs.

I sampled Margarita’s appetizing version and found it even much better than the one I tasted in Italy, for it had more flavor in it. And add to this the stylishly modern and pop look, which all Cibo outlets are famous for, and you have a truly fun dining experience.

The Porchetta, by the way, is the newest offering of Cibo Rapido and exclusive to this branch only. It is Margarita’s intention of celebrating this Italian street fare for what it is – honest, unpretentious and downright delicious – in the midst of a stylized, contemporary setting.

And true to Margarita’s artistic sensibilities, Cibo Rapido is just that – ultra modern, trendy, decked with steel chairs and tables and a hypnotic dotted wall to boot, hip interiors courtesy of Jorge Yulo.

Italian fast food is what Cibo Rapido promises to deliver to its customers, mostly coming from the working force at Ortigas Center. But when one enters Cibo Rapido and soaks in the atmosphere, sometimes one tends to linger long after lunch break is over. So for a reality check, a huge clock with gigantic numbers is mounted on the wall for everyone to see.

Other Italian food fare offered are pasta and rice creations, including Gaita’s one of a kind Risotto Balls, otherwise known as Arancini in Sicily. They come with a blend of cheeses and a rich meat ragu. Soon to be added in her menu is Pizza Rustica, which is now in the development stage.

Now busy catering to important functions, not to mention state dinners, it is a wonder how Margarita manages to maintain a serene disposition through all these. The buzz is that she, too, will open a fine dining restaurant in the near future. Well, that’s certainly a good news to hear!

But above all that, Margarita, through Cibo Rapido, has given the lowly pig its due recognition, elevating its stature to that of a gourmet delight worthy of the most discriminating of tastes.