A taste of Pampango, Bulakeño cooking at Ce

An eminent Chinese philosopher, Lin Yutang, once said, "If a man is sensible, he will count at the tips of his fingers how many things in life truly give him enjoyment. Invariably, he will find food is the first one."

Cebu Plaza Hotel, a firm believer that there can only be a few more pleasant experiences than an unforgettable meal, delivered just that to Cebuanos by recently hosting not one, but two memorable food festivals, showcasing Pampanga and Bulacan, at their popular Lantaw Seafood and Native Restaurant.

A native Pampango, Ener de Dios, Holiday Inn Resort Clark sous chef, headed the delegation of culinary experts from Pampanga. He prepared famous Kapampangan dishes such as kare-kare, relleno, sisig (the thrice-cooked pork cheek and jowl pica-pica), estofados, a variety of exotic buro (fermented rice, fish, shrimps and vegetables) and a variety of adobo.

Initially, I could not bring myself to partake of, not even just to taste, betute (stuffed frog’s legs) and kamaru (locusts fried to a crisp), but judging from the delighted faces of Kapampangan guests, such as Cebu’s favorite photographer Raul Arambulo, the city’s seaport top honcho Benjie Akol and the hotel’s dynamic PR manager Aissa dela Cruz, I simply had to dip my fingers into these. I even had seconds. No regrets.

A meal without dessert is simply unthinkable. Chef de partie Nelson Enriquez whipped up delicacies Pampanga is famous for such as tibok-tibok (maja blanca) made of fresh carabao’s milk or corn, puto seco dipped in carabao’s milk, espasol with bits of kundol, mamon tostado, kalamay na ube, rice cake and the mouth-watering pitisus (cream puffs).

We must remember that Pampanga was once the largest and richest province in Central Luzon. They were the main producers of rice and sugar, and from the Rio Grande came an abundance of freshwater fish. All these and more plus the Pampango’s zest for entertaining on a grand scale, with their lavish balls and fabulous meals, has contributed to the development of its cuisine.

On the other hand, food historian Milagros Santiago Enriquez shared with the Cebuanos her extensive knowledge and collection of Bulacan culinary treasures.

She admitted, "I gained my sense of nationalism from my father, Dr. Cristobal Santiago and the art and love for cooking from my mother, the former Enriqueta Cervantes."

Married to Jacinto Enriquez, a descendant of Bulacan Katipunero founders, Mila was motivated to research on Philippine history and, in the process, on our national heroes’ favorite dishes as well.

In between delicious bites of heavenly sweets Bulacan is famous for, such as pastillas de leche, turrones, pianono and leche flan and more, my ears were glued to Mila as she continued to say that Dr. Jose Rizal cooked guisadong monggo for his nephews and nieces who came to visit him in Dapitan, Emilio Aguinaldo, a vegetarian, preferred asparagus soup, pochero and pinalundag na bulig were Marcelo H. del Pilar’s favorite dishes, and that Trinidad Pardo de Tavera favored cocido.

Cebuanos once more appreciate the continuing efforts of Cebu Plaza Hotel, the talents of the out-of-town chefs and the entertaining food chronicler Milagros Santiago Enriquez for reliving history and for preserving our traditional regional culinary heritage.