Suede, fringes, ponchos: Burberry goes bohemian in London

LONDON  — Fashion is notoriously fickle but there's two things sure to be everywhere this fall: Suede and fringing — lots of it.

Reinforcing fashion's fling with all things retro, luxury British brand Burberry Prorsum showed off a collection Monday that was rich in patchworks of floral embroidery, bohemian ponchos and quilt-like textures.

The first look, a cozy turquoise and grass-green printed poncho laden with long suede fringes, set the tone. Then came folksy tiered, paisley dresses and hippie versions of the brand's bestselling trench coats, all tan suede and adorned with tassels.

A model wears an creation by designer Burberry Prorsum for their Autumn/Winter 2015 collection at London Fashion Week Monday, Feb. 23, 2015. (AP Photo/Alastair Grant)

A tan suede cape-dress, covered all over with tiers of fringe — and worn with tasseled shoe-boots, no less — won approving nods from the stars and models in the front row.

A model wears an creation by designer Burberry Prorsum for their Autumn/Winter 2015 collection at London Fashion Week Monday, Feb. 23, 2015. (AP Photo/Alastair Grant)

With the Oscars clashing this year with London Fashion Week, the past few days have seen a dearth of big names on the catwalk front rows. Not so at Burberry. Actress Maggie Gyllenhaal squeezed in with Grammy-winning musician Sam Smith, and all the top British models were here: Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne and Jourdan Dunn.

Naomi Campbell, sporting a fluffy white fur coat, arrived late and had to push through the crowds to get to her seat mid-show.

Backstage, design chief Christopher Bailey said he wanted to explore "all the different crafts that we have in the British Isles."

Burberry is the biggest and most successful British brand at London Fashion Week, and it's a fairly good bet that whatever Bailey sends down the catwalk will be copied immediately. The brand's blanket-like, oversized check scarves last season were a runaway success that spawned numerous knock-off versions.

"You know, it's always delightful when something really resonates with people," Bailey said of his fashion influence. "But you never really know when you do a show how people might express it or translate it."

Bailey said he was "intensely proud" that Eddie Redmayne — who had modelled for Burberry — won best actor Sunday at the Oscars.

"Not only is he one of the most charming people that you'll ever meet, but he's one of the most talented actors that you'll ever meet as well. So I'm completely delighted for him," he said.

Burberry's show led a the busy roster Monday, followed by displays from Hunter Original and Christopher Kane.

London Fashion Week winds down on Tuesday.