Mini skirts and trapeze dresses are back

Memories of childhood’s beloved stories are woven into ensembles rich in folklore, embroidery and other embellishments.

The party season is upon us and we will face it with all the glamour we can muster, from swinging ’60s dresses to fairy tale fantasies and the extravagance of gold and velvet. We need not be stiff party poopers, however, and still look cool with sporty looks, knit pantsuits, relaxed tailoring, and the nonchalance of the season’s hot cover-up cloaks and ponchos.

Overdose on knits

You don’t have to be shy with knits this season — you can wear it shamelessly from head to toe:  all covered up at Celine and Stella McCartney, with extended sleeves draped long over your hands, paired with matching trousers.  Stella even has a matching shoulder bag with a bow that accents the ensemble. Marc Jacobs shows a little more skin with a sleeveless top and dangerously low neckline. The only way to do this is to stick to neutrals like nude, beige or crème anglaise. You can store your skinny jeans for the moment and try their gently flaring knit trousers.

Swing with the ’60s

Revisit the London of Jane Birkin and Twiggy with mini skirts and trapeze dresses. The look is young and carefree with pastel shades at Gucci, color blocks at Louis Vuitton and enigmatic black at Saint Laurent. Patent Mary Janes can make the look sweet but these three houses opted for go-go knee-high boots. At the Verona branch of Gucci we saw a black trapeze dress with a leather biker bib, which gave it a harder edge. There’s a tinge of ’90s street wear in the mix and new fabrics like neoprene so it’s a whole new cocktail altogether which Penelope Tree never had during her time. If the baby doll or short skirts aren’t your thing, you can still feel the love with ’60s prints that have been rebooted for the digital crowd with more modest lengths. You’ll be in the swing of things with Valentino’s psychedelia as well as Prada and Chloe’s reworked vintage prints. 

Be a good sport

Which means retire the hip-hop sportswear and opt for something more polished but having the athletic aesthetic. Fleece, mesh, neoprene and perforated leather in bright colors and geometric patterns channel the active lifestyle.  Louis Vuitton has a tailored take on the sweatsuit with a color-blocked triangular neckline top and wrapped mini skirt, worn with ankle boots. Fendi goes all- black with shorts matched with a cropped kimono top and white wedge sneakers. Miu Miu has quilted parkas over mini dresses in primary red and blue with pink boots.

Have an Aspen High

The chic mountain getaway comes to the city as the ’70s cult argyle sweater makes a comeback in new combinations. Louis Vuitton emblazoned it diagonally like a sash over a blue top, matched with an orange leather skirt and strappy sandals. Tommy Hilfiger fringed it for more fun and Maison Martin Margiela cinched a graphic black and white one with a skinny belt in cognac. 

Felines are eternal

The feline beast has been a lady’s best friend for as long as fashion historians can remember and it won’t leave us this season with beautiful dresses in leopard at Celine, black print tops at Giorgio Armani, and decadent coats at Givenchy.  Saw a lot of them in the boutiques in the Veneto region of Italy like at Max Mara where leopard and tiger coats reigned.

Optical Illusions

Black and white is dazzling this season as it takes the form of geometric patterns, trompe l’oeil effects and Rorschach ink blots.  Balmain’s chevron top with a zigzag print peplum comes with a horizontal striped pencil skirt.  Bottega Veneta has the stripes whirling around a dress while Dries Van Noten’s coat makes the stripes behave like Vasarely optics. 

Cover up with a Poncho, a Cloak or a Cape

When temperatures drop, a stylish option would be the poncho, cloak or cape. The iconic poncho with its folk roots has been appropriated for urban glamazons by the likes of Roberto Cavalli who did it in shades of black and gray with a fur hood; and Burberry and Etro who just draped it nonchalantly over the shoulders in a couldn’t-care-less attitude. Gareth Pugh borrowed from the Brother’s Grimm with his poncho worn like a cape. Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino’s capes went folk with beautiful embroidery.  

Fairy tale dreams

Memories of childhood’s beloved stories are woven into ensembles rich in folklore, embroidery and other embellishments. Dolce & Gabbana’s Little Red Riding Hood is all grown up in a flowing chiffon gown with folk prints. Alexander McQueen’s Snow Queen is regal in embroidered white tulle while Valentino’s Queen of Hearts rules in black organza.  

Classic men’s tailoring

Men’s tailored overcoats and suits are the way to go for the fall. The three-fourth length coat is a bit longer, though — done with white buttons and an hourglass shape at Celine, softer and more feminine at Dior, and sumptuously Belle Époque with pleated details at Lanvin. The suits have a relaxed look, worn with straight leg trousers. The jackets tend to be boxy at Haider Ackermann and Hermes, while at Ralph Lauren they’re closer to the body. 

Luxe up with Gold and Velvet

To shine this party season, go for gold or velvet. Saint Laurent has a fitted stylized militaire gold jacket worn with black tights and suede knee-high boots in cognac. Prada’s boxy gold jacket with black shearling lapels and trim is worn over a vermillion mini dress.  Chloe’s black tunic and cropped pants is a stunner appliqued with gold hieroglyphs. The look is very laidback, even with velvet, not like the stuffy ensembles of seasons past.  Chanel even had jumpsuits in velvet with ribbed accents to nip the waist. Nina Ricci’s little black velvet dress is cut on the bias with lace shoulders and sleeves exposing some skin. Tom Ford’s long velvet skirt has a matching casual top with a V-neck.