‘Salon’: Tan Gan + Gaupo + Lloren + Lustico

Gaupo. Lloren. Lustico. Tan Gan. Four of Philippine fashion’s finest have come together to present a one-of-a-kind fashion show at The Peninsula-Manila on Sept. 12 dubbed “Salon.” This creative collaboration, a throwback to the time when guests were given buyer’s sheets to have a pick of the clothes as the show unfolded, is the brainchild of Lulu Tan Gan and Dennis Lustico. Convinced that four designers were better than two, the duo brought in their good friends and equally talented designers Cesar Gaupo and Jojie Lloren to form the formidable fashion foursome of Salon.

“We wanted the concept of the traditional salon show, something true to the nature of fashion. We simply wanted to go back to the roots of fashion,” explained Dennis Lustico.

For Cesar Gaupo and Jojie Lloren the decision to join came easy as Cesar shared, “We have a certain camaraderie, we understand each other and there were no complications.” Lulu Tan Gan said that Jojie answered in his trademark “ganon,” his way of expressing agreement as soon as the concept was pitched to him.

Purposely bucking current popular trends, the four designers avoided the large-scale commercial and marketing approach to fashion shows and instead opted for a more personal one, inviting only their clients and the media. Though their production is not big in scale, it is in idea and quality. They will do away with the usual runway, often hoisted high above the eye level of the audience and instead utilize the floor area of the Rigodon Ballroom, cover it with white carpet and swathe the venue in luxurious white. They will seat the guests almost within arm’s length of the models participating in the show and provide them with buyer’s sheets to mark their selections for purchase immediately after the show.

“Salon is about paying attention to details, making sure that the clothes are relatable and wearable and the close proximity of the guests to the models will translate that. We believe this is what women in Manila want to see and experience,” said Lustico.

In an interview with the four designers, they elaborate more on Salon, their muses and their passion for the job.

PHILIPPINE STAR:  The four of you must have pulled out all the stops to create 15 drop-dead gorgeous creations each for Salon; what type of clothes have you prepared for the show and what were your inspirations?

CESAR GAUPO:  I designed short and long evening and formal dresses with vests, jackets, and coats inspired by structural and graphic forms.

JOJIE LLOREN:  I will show short and long party dresses in an ode to Art Nouveau.

DENNIS LUSTICO:  Short and long formals, cocktail dresses to evening gowns; my pieces will reflect the work of Zaha Hadid, the world-famous Iranian, naturalized British architect whose works are completely modern, almost futuristic, very ahead of our time. I will interpret the sinuous quality, sleekness, geometry, and fluidity present in all her works in my collection.

LULU TAN GAN: My clothes will range from casual to evening with references to Asian costumes. I will present a collection that I believe is ideal for the modern Asian woman.

Is Salon a protest of some sort to the way fashion shows are currently presented? What do you hope to achieve with a show like this?

GAUPO: Personally, I just would like to express my innermost feelings about how couture clothes can be designed effortlessly, free of any commercialism whatsoever.

LLOREN: Not at all, we just want a show that would feature wearable pieces that will appeal to our clients. Since this will be the first of a series of annual shows, we hope to raise funds to send deserving individuals to fashion school. With the right foundation; these individuals could possibly become the future leaders of our fashion industry.

LUSTICO: In all honesty, I would like to veer away from the “entertainment” aspect of fashion shows, that is why Lulu Tan Gan and I came up with this concept. Our show will be more akin to a “buyer’s show” where clients can order whatever pieces they like with the help of a buyer’s sheet and sales assistants. Our hope is to be able to stage a show like this regularly and make it a vehicle for more designers to practice their craft and sell their clothes.

TAN GAN: It is definitely not a protest. We would just like to give our clients a venue to appreciate our clothes up close rather than on a big stage with gigantic props. As designers, we must go through the process of creating and innovating several collections annually. This kind of show will pressure us to design new collections like international designers do. By doing this, we will be able to set local trends, sustain our signature looks versus looking towards foreign trends to set the pace in the local market.

Are any of you nostalgic for the fashion industry of the past?

GAUPO: The idea may sound nostalgic but we simply want to present collections that are exclusive to our clients in an intimate manner.

LLOREN: No, I think Philippine fashion has progressed immensely.

LUSTICO: Not necessarily, but we would prefer to stay true to the true nature of fashion, which is primarily art with business — a standard practice in fashion abroad.

TAN GAN:  No, it is not about nostalgia but more about approaching fashion in a manner similar to international fashion capitals.

How long have you all been in the fashion industry? How would you compare this collection to your previous collections?

GAUPO: I have been in the fashion business for 45 years. I really cannot compare or contrast this collection with all my previous work; all I can say is this is by far the most challenging I have had to work on.

LLOREN: For more than 20 years now. I can say that like my past collections, this one will incorporate design details in the seam lines but will include details that are three-dimensional.

LUSTICO: I put up my first atelier in 1999, but I officially became a designer when I was accepted as a member of the Young Designers Guild in 1998. My collection for this show is more in tune with the needs and wants of a modern woman; the clothes are more sleek, less frilly, definitely not stuffy, travel- friendly and low-maintenance.

TAN GAN: I have been producing clothes on my own for 28 years; my collection for this show is made up of artisan pieces or what I call “Indigenous Couture,” literally handmade casual to evening wear.

You must admit that group shows can be quite tricky since the audience may compare one designer’s collection to another; was this ever a concern when you all decided to do the show together?

GAUPO: You know, whether it is a solo show or a group show, there is always the tendency to be compared; for me, that is acceptable.

LLOREN: No, but I must admit that it’s nakaka-tense to do a show with three very good designers!

LUSTICO: Group shows are a usual thing for Filipino designers and being compared cannot be avoided. We each have our own personal style and I think for as long as we deliver and continue to be true to our own styles, there is nothing to worry about.

TAN GAN:  It is normal and healthy so we do not mind being compared to each other.

In an industry where competition is fierce and true friendships are rare, it is wonderful to know you are all very good friends. How long have you all known each other?

GAUPO: Yes, the four of us are long-time friends, but I have known Lulu the longest. I just cannot remember how long I have known her.

LLOREN:  I actually met Cesar and Lulu in 1998 during the Young Designers Competition and I have known Dennis since the mid-’90s.

LUSTICO: I’ve known Jojie the longest since we used to be members of Young Designers Guild. I met Lulu later on when she helped us join design competitions here and abroad. I met Cesar the last (but not the least!). He is one of the most likeable (and most talented, continually evolving) designers in the industry.

TAN GAN: I have known Cesar the longest, not necessarily because he is the oldest (even though he is)! I met Cesar 37 years ago; he is “lolo” to my daughters! I met Jojie and Dennis about 15 years ago when I first became actively involved in co-organizing fashion design competitions.

Among the young crop of fashion designers, who do you like the most and who do you think shows the most promise? Did you mentor any of them?

GAUPO: There are so many young talents, it is not fair to mention just one. I mentored a young designer once, JC Buendia, and he is now very successful.

LLOREN: Jerome Lorico.  Aside from creativity, I see a lot of passion and determination in him. I hope he stays focused. Yes, I have had the pleasure and honor of mentoring a few of the current young designers including Jerome Lorico, Regine Dulay and Veejay Floresca.

LUSTICO: There seems to be a deluge of designers lately and I don’t know many of them. I am not so sure if Jerome Lorico is still considered young but he stands out from among his contemporaries. I am currently teaching my niece.

TAN GAN:  I’ve always liked Jerome Lorico even before he left for London. He’s consistent with his creations and he is also persevering in the knitwear business like me, which is not easy at all. I also consider Adante, a self-taught accessories designer, a very good one. I have mentored Puey Quiñones and Solenn Heussaff, although she is more known now as a showbiz personality. Several of the others I have mentored are working with big local brands; in the near future, I plan to set up an internship program.

Back in the day, when you were just starting out with your fashion design career, there were no stylists; what is your opinion of them? Will you be using any for “Salon”?

GAUPO: Personally, I believe as designers we are also stylists. I don’t really think we will need one for the show.

LLOREN:  Stylists offer a different perspective of a designer’s collection. This may or may not be agreeable to the designer and this may or may not be better than the designer’s vision. Ultimately in my opinion, using a stylist is the designer’s decision.

LUSTICO:  Stylists give our creations a different perspective and dimension and their expertise is welcome; they take some of the worries off the designers. I should add that one of their invaluable contributions is dressing up ubiquitous personalities and making them look good.

TAN GAN:  Stylists can be very helpful, but as a designer, you must know and use one who knows and understands your look.

“Salon” will be the first of its kind in Philippine fashion; what will the mood be during the show? What can the audience expect?

GAUPO: The mood will be very intimate and sophisticated. Expect each one of us to express our individuality.

LLOREN: We will have a white setting that will allow the clothes to stand out. The audience can expect wearable pieces, save for a few editorial ones.

LUSTICO: The mood of the show will be very relaxed and cozy. There will be no runway so the audience need not extend their necks to be able to see the outfits in their entirety. The models will be walking very close to the guests so they get to sit comfortably and watch.

TAN GAN: I imagine it to be luxurious, whether the clothes are casual or formal. I have yet to finish my collection as working with indigenous materials is delicate, they need more volume and ease in design to allow movement and no tearing of the material.

If you had the opportunity to collaborate with an international designer, who would it be and why?

GAUPO: I would say Stephane Rolland because I admire his design aesthetics.

LLOREN: If I could go back in time, it would have to be Alexander McQueen; he is pure genius.

LUSTICO: For me, it is Valentino because I would like to work with exquisite materials, not to mention imbibe the sophistication and refinement of the House of Valentino. My other choice would be Raf Simons of the House of Dior because I would like to learn his take on New Couture.

TAN GAN: At the moment Raf Simons. He is a Belgian designer who started out as a furniture designer, then became a clothes designer. He evolved from youth culture to shape and form, often blending tradition.

If you had the opportunity to change one thing in your fashion design career, what would it be?

GAUPO:  I will not change a thing.

LLOREN:  I would have also studied Business Management.

LUSTICO:  Live abroad maybe, but then again, I’m happy where I am now, so who knows.

TAN GAN:  I would have loved to live and work in a fashion capital.

Speaking of fashion capitals, in your opinion, which is truly the fashion capital of the world? The verdict is somewhat out on this.

GAUPO:  Commercially, New York but for high fashion, Milan and Paris.

LLOREN: Paris.

LUSTICO:  Paris for couture, no doubt and New York for ready-to-wear.

TAN GAN:  Paris, London, Milan, and New York. Paris is still the center of the fashion business. London, on the other hand, breeds creative thinking and expression. Milan has a long fashion history and is the hub for clothing and textile industries. New York with its garment district, showrooms and department stores says it all.

What do you consider a big fashion no-no?

GAUPO:  A woman who does not know who and what she is.

LLOREN:  Being a fashion victim.

LUSTICO: There seems to be no rule nowadays but I would still trust the eye because it easily knows what’s garish and not.

TAN GAN:  Conforming too much.

Who or what kind of woman inspires you when you create your collection?

GAUPO:  Women who know who and what they are.

LLOREN: A woman who is fashion-independent.

LUSTICO: Women with strong identities, women who became celebrated because they went for their dreams, and worked hard for them.

TAN GAN: Women with independent minds.

You were all asked to pick a muse to represent your collection for “Salon”; can you please tell us who they are and why you chose them?

GAUPO: I chose Apples Aberin out of pure admiration for how she looks and carries herself. I look for three qualities in a muse — social bearing, breeding and looks. Apples is the epitome of all three.

LLOREN: For me, Nina Herrera-Huang is the perfect muse and client; she is not afraid to experiment. She also has the body and height for clothes that most women wouldn’t be able to carry well.

LUSTICO: Mons Romulo was my immediate choice because she is not only a beautiful person but also a wonderful client. She trusts me and I am thankful for the freedom to design that goes with that trust. She is very thoughtful, always promoting my work to her friends.

TAN GAN: For me, Bettina Osmeña is the perfect example of the modern Filipino woman; her simplicity exudes youthfulness and elegance and is ideal for our “Indigenous Couture,” artisan fashion that is understated but strongly imbibes our traditional culture. She wears my designs effortlessly.

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All these women are known and respected for their fashion style, but more importantly for their personal and professional achievements. Apples Aberin, a former model, is the public relations manager for personal care products of Unilever-Philippines; Nina Herrera-Huang is an entrepreneur, active in socio-civic endeavors, who once ran the New York Marathon to provide several thousand pairs of sports shoes for children in need. Mons Tantoco is a Lifestyle writer for The Philippine STAR and is an active supporter of several charities and non-profit organizations including Habitat for Humanity. Bettina Osmeña, is a Senate wife, a breast cancer survivor and advocate who recently launched an all-natural hair care product line made from locally sourced aloe vera. 

Here’s what these impressive ladies had to say about their designers and the role of fashion in their lives.

Your designers are all praises for you and it is quite obvious why; how did you meet them and how long have you known them?

APPLES ABERIN: I’ve known Cesar for more than 25 years now. I met him when I modeled in the show of the renowned Fashion Design Group (FDG) of which he was a member.

NINA HERRERA-HUANG: I met Jojie around 2003, 2004; I cannot remember for sure, but I had already been seeing his work in dailies and I have always admired his work. I am very attracted to clean lines and Jojie’s work exudes a clear sense of form and structure; I sought him until I found him.

MONS ROMULO: I met Dennis 12 years go. Some of my friends wore his designs and I immediately fell in love with them. I used to have all my clothes made by the late Joe Salazar but during an event at the National Museum, I wore a Dennis Lustico. Joe Salazar saw me and immediately took notice of Dennis’s creation; he carefully looked at the details and the fabric and told me the workmanship was excellent.

BETTINAOSMEñA: I met Lulu 15 or so years ago, but I don’t quite recall how I met her.

On what occasions do you wear their creations?

HERRERA-HUANG: I use Jojie’s pieces anytime, anywhere. He has a range of work that can take me from a pair of T-shirts and shorts, to the top of a horse when I ride, to a ball gown!  For me, Jojie is “understated elegance.”

ROMULO: I wear Dennis’s designs for very special occasions. His designs are classic with a twist, they are clothes you can wear time and again. Dennis is a lot like Joe Salazar, they are both perfectionists dedicated to their craft. They are passionate about details and fabrics and are very shy, soft-spoken and humble persons.

OSMEñA: I wear Lulu’s knits when I travel; they are light, practical, easy to pack and very stylish. I wear her Filipiniana-inspired outfits made from local hand-woven fabrics when the occasion calls for it, especially because they do not have the lola or ninang look to them.

Will you be appearing as guest models in the show?

ABERIN: It will be my pleasure!

HERRERA-HUANG: No, I won’t be, but I will most likely watch.

ROMULO: No, I won’t be modeling on Sept. 12.

OSMEñA: No, I won’t be modeling, but I will definitely be wearing one of her creations to the show so I guess that is another form of modeling.

You have all appeared in best-dressed lists, do you wear more local or international fashion?

ABERIN: My wardrobe is a mix of local and international brands, but I always make it a point to wear pieces by local designers.

HERRERA-HUANG: I wear both local and foreign brands equally and that makes for a happy husband and a happy me.

ROMULO: On special occasions, I always wear Filipino designs; otherwise, I wear a good mix of both.

OSMEñA: I wear local designs for special occasions. I am also starting to slowly introduce local ethnic pieces in my everyday wear — hand-woven scarves, beaded necklaces, and other accessories. Wearing a barong dress is my little way of helping promote Philippine fabric and fashion as well.

Is it important to have a personal relationship with your designer?

ABERIN: Absolutely! It helps because a designer can then create clothes that really showcase one’s personal style. 

HERRERA-HUANG: I particularly enjoy my personal relationship with Jojie; he was born on Dec. 25 and Jesus Emmanuel is his real name. He has a wonderful sister and a wonderful set of friends. He loves pencils like I do and he loves architecture and is often inspired by this. He has pet cats in his atelier and Ging and Manang are my best friends there. Now, I am praying that God will find a way to bring Anderson Cooper to Manila, as that will make Jojie very, very happy.

ROMULO: First of all, when you choose a designer, you go to someone you can trust to create a dress or gown that will look good on you. Most designers, even without a personal relationship with their clients, have a gift of knowing what is best even at the very first meeting.

OSMEñA: Yes, of course. Your outfit is an extension of your personality.

Apart from impeccable design talent, what do you think makes for a successful designer?

ABERIN: The most successful designers are those who have vision, talent, technical skill, and professionalism all rolled into one. Cesar definitely possesses all these traits and that is why he continues to be one of the top designers in the Philippines, and even globally as proven by his stint with Shanghai Tang.

ROMULO: I believe it is important to have passion and dedication to your work plus talent to be a successful designer. You must also be responsible in delivering to your clients on time and must never, ever over-charge.

OSMEñA: A successful designer is somebody who is secure about his/her design and does not resort to copying. They are dedicated to their craft, always working on improving their design and production process.

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All of the above make for a successful designer and all four designers of “Salon” are just that. I am excited that these fabulous designers are staging a show like “Salon”; as Apples Aberin said, “It is a great idea! As much as fashion is all about inspiration and aspiration, it is also about focusing on the legitimate business of selling clothes to real women who wear them.” 

As a former model myself, I have always liked the whole vibe of the “Salon” type of show; being able to look at the faces of the audience when they view the clothes up close is priceless. There is a great sense of satisfaction and delight to see the expressions on their faces, smiling with approval and genuine appreciation. The energy during the show is raw and real and in the moment. There is no smoke and mirrors; what you see is what you get. This departure from the current fashion show norm is, to say the least, highly anticipated and this must-watch all-female fashion event of September, “Salon” may just set the pace for the new and refreshing direction of Philippine fashion.

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Salon will be held at the Rigodon Ballroom of The Peninsula-Manila on Sept. 12.)