Modern branding: The power of pattern

Fashion has thrown out logos for exclusive prints.

Patterns are the new approach to logos. The modern and sophisticated shopper now goes for understated luxury. I have always been an advocate of quality and design rather than a sought-after label with a recognizable logo. So, if you are one to appreciate these, too, you’re in for a treat.

More-discreet branding is all the rage.

The more stylish set go for subtle trademarks rather than goods adorned with large logos. Buying habits of consumers have changed. Brand loyalty is decreasing. Many purchase from different brands considering price, appearance, function, features and performance. A label still plays a significant role in a consumer’s purchase decision but this time for different reasons.

Repeating patterns of shapes — from cubes to triangles, checks, stripes and zigzag prints — is the current approach to represent brands.

The shift was more apparent when Target hit it big with Missoni in September 2011. The much-anticipated clothing and home goods collection of Missoni for Target sold out at most stores in less than a day. The frenzy was even compared with Black Friday, the sale after Thanksgiving which is supposed to be the biggest shopping day of the year. Consumers could not get enough of Missoni’s trademark zigzag print, so much so that Target’s website even crashed due to online shopping traffic. Within hours, a Missoni chevron print tote for Target retailing for US$34.99 was listed for more than US$100 on eBay.

Aside from Missoni, there are a number of design houses already using patterns as trademarks since their establishment.

Take for instance Burberry, which is identified by its distinctive tartan pattern. This easily recognizable pattern, formally known as Haymarket Check or Burberry Classic Check, was introduced in 1924 and originally used as a lining of the house’s trench coats. Now, you see these checks everywhere — from bags to scarves, shoes belts, umbrellas, wallets and even watches.

Another worthy mark is Paul Smith’s stripes. It has become so iconic that even a Mini Cooper is striped in his signature stripes.

Then there’s Bottega Veneta’s weave that conveys understated luxury. No logo necessary. Once you see the house’s leather-weaving technique or intrecciato, you know what it is.

One of the oldest French manufacturers of suitcases and luggage or malletier de luxe continues to be a current brand. The house is known for its canvas with a repeating pattern of three chevrons juxtaposed to type a Y, the central letter of the Goyard family name. Goyard’s revival of their hand-painted monograms from initials to stripes or coat of arms was the answer to the recent clamor for bespoke products. Personalized monograms replaced the logo.

Not to be outdone, Marc Jacobs came up with eye-popping checks for Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2013 collection. Even the house’s Speedy bag was embellished in cubes. Jacobs took reference to the label’s Damier print first created in 1888. This heritage-cubed pattern was initially seen at Kim Jones’ debut menswear collection for the house in spring 2012.

More and more designer houses are taking this alternative. New York based, Proenza Schouler chose a repeating triangle motif to mark their brand. Its noticeable pattern but discreet branding is seen in the label’s latest womenswear and accessories line. Pierre Hardy, who takes inspiration from architecture and geometry, uses a cube pattern to hallmark his label. Then, at Roger Vivier, a pattern based on a prism was introduced in spring 2012.  Each piece is stitched together to form the pattern called Prismick.

Recognizable patterns have become the new fashion icons. Patterns have replaced logos and now represent the brand.

The market has matured. Consumers are more discerning. They have become less interested in logos and more interested in heritage and workmanship.

Understated luxury is all the rage.

After all, luxury is not about being noticed. It is not about being defined by brash logos. Luxury is about rich and superior quality. It is an indulgence that you desire but not having to flaunt it to others.

So the next time you’re out shopping, just buy something you like.

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E-mail Joyce Oreña at jo@joyceorena.com or follow her on Twitter @joyceoren