Showbiz designer Francis Libiran goes solo

It is hard not to like Francis Libiran the first time you meet him; he is one of those people you just like instantly from the moment you shake hands and say hi. He has an aura about him that exudes calm, a demeanor that is respectful and humble and a character that is good-natured and passionate. As a bonus, he is easy on the eyes, with a body worthy of a model and a melt-all-your-troubles-away smile.

The architectural graduate from the University of Santo Tomas counts his blessings and takes to heart the valuable lessons he learned when he made the tough decision to leave the material comforts of his cushy life with his family in an exclusive Alabang enclave and pursue his love for fashion design sans the approval of his father.

In his 20s he moved in with friends, learned to take public transportation and live on a limited budget, do household chores and tread unfamiliar territory while going after his dream. It took some years before he reunited with his father but he says he will not change a thing. That momentary separation only helped strengthen his resolve to be the best at fashion design and today his father is his biggest fan, along with the rest of his family.

Described as simple, hardworking, shy, fun, prayerful and loving by the people around him, it is easy to see why Francis has found success where others have faltered. His design genius is evident and will be on full display in his upcoming solo fashion show. In an exclusive interview with The Philippine STAR, he talks about life and the ongoing affair he has with his first love, fashion design.

The designer comes of age: Francis Libiran is all set to take center stage in his first solo fashion gala show at The Manila Hotel.

THE PHILIPPINE STAR: This is your first gala fashion presentation since you began designing 15 years ago. Why did you wait so long?

FRANCIS LIBIRAN: I have participated in several group shows in the past, most notably the Metrowear Series and Fashion Watch at the Makati Shangri-La hotel spearheaded by Inno Sotto; that sort of put a fashion seal on my work since I was known as a showbiz designer — “designer to the artistas.” I guess I wasn’t prepared to come out solo then as a fashion designer; now felt like a good time to do that and celebrate.

Why is the show entitled “100 – The Francis Libiran Fashion Gala?” Are you presenting 100 pieces of clothes?

One hundred means perfection, 100 because I’ve got hundreds of ideas going on in my mind all the time and 100 because Manila Hotel is celebrating its centennial anniversary. I will be showing 70 pieces of short dresses and gowns, including 10 suits for men.

Supermodel-worthy: America’s Next Top Model host and supermodel Tyra Banks wears Francis Libiran to the Blossom Ball.

I have seen some of your work and they are very intricate. How long did it take you to come up with this collection? Do you have a color theme?

From sketches to the final nips and tucks, it took all of three months. I created designs mostly in nude because I love that color: it is sexy, it is pure, it is luxurious and it complements light and dark skin tones.

Wow, that is such a short time! You must have been especially inspired. How did you come up with the designs for the collection?

I found inspiration in architectural forms, which is why you will find a lot of linear detailing and layering in the clothes. I also wanted to celebrate being a Filipino designer so I applied callado to most of the pieces; I integrated it in a modern, young, hip and sexy way.

Short but sweet: The web-like linear detailing of this cocktail dress is both flattering and elegantly feminine.

That’s right, you were an architect first before you became a fashion designer. How did having the architectural background influence your work as a fashion designer?

Being an architect first gave me the discipline to respect and understand the process of design, from concept to reality. I am a big stickler for details and I also have a very technical approach to design; that is why my clothes are pulido.

At what age did you know you wanted a career in fashion?

I don’t remember exactly but when I was very young, I used to go with my mother to her costurera and she would try on all of these clothes that she had made and she would ask me, “Maganda ba? Bagay ba?” I was so excited even then watching her; I could say my mom was the first fashion influence in my life. Back then I also already loved reading fashion magazines so bata pa lang, I already wanted to be a designer.

You know, I had to do a double take the first time I met you; I thought you were a model or a TV personality. You are very fit; how do you keep yourself looking like that?

Nude but not bare: One of Francis Libiran’s exquisite nude gowns with intricate callado embroidery on the bodice worn by ANTM finalist Dominique. Photos by ASH REGINALD VELASCO Makeup by PONG NIU for MAC Hair by RAVEN DIZON and HERNAN DUMABOC of the Jing Monis Salon and Tresemmé Shot at THE MANILA HOTEL

I go to the gym every morning for at least an hour; that is my “me” time. I also don’t take carbs; that is why I am able to maintain a certain weight. It gets harder, though, as I get older!

So you are a morning person? Is that when you are most creative?

Absolutely! I use the time I spend in the gym to think of ideas, organize my day. When I go back to my atelier, I put everything down on paper. I can say that I am happiest when I am designing.

You are a favorite of celebrities and your designs are a staple at the Star Magic Ball. How many gowns and suits have you made so far since the ball started in 2006?

Easily over 100 pieces! I am so grateful to Mr. Johnny Manahan and Mariole Alberto for giving me the chance to dress their stars.

That’s a lot of gowns! Who are some of the celebrities you have dressed?

Anne Curtis, Kim Chiu, Kristine Hermosa, Jake Cuenca, Bea Alonzo, Robin Padilla, Sam Milby and the younger celebrities like Julia Montes and Kathryn Bernardo have worn my designs.

Are you privy to showbiz gossip?

Yes, but I make it a point not to say anything, my lips are always sealed. It is especially awkward when the chismis involves my clients.

You became sort of like a fashion household name when you designed the Hello Kitty-themed outfits for America’s Next Top Model. How did you land that gig?

Michael Carandang, the Filipino producer of America’s Next Top Model, is a very good friend of mine. One day I got a Facebook message from him asking, “Would you like to do ANTM? Without knowing what ANTM meant, I said yes!

That’s funny! What was your reaction when you found out it actually meant America’s Next Top Model?

Thrilled, nervous. After we discussed the idea behind the clothes, he told me I only had three weeks to put together the collection. I drew sketches right away, researched on the Hello Kitty products, ordered the pieces we needed for the clothes and worked on the clothes as soon as the Hello Kitty products arrived. There was so much pressure because not only did we have 10 days in total to produce the collection, the specifications of the products we integrated in the designs were different from the actual products delivered so we had to make major adjustments. Lumabas yung inner child in me; I don’t think I slept those three weeks!

But what an accomplishment, the clothes were over-the-top fabulous. How many did you make and where are those clothes now?

I made 12 Hello Kitty couture pieces but only eight were used because by Episode 8 of Cycle 18, there were only eight contestants left. The clothes were so fragile we had them shipped in life-size boxes — Tyra’s company spent about US$10,000 for the shipping! Sanrio, the company that owns the Hello Kitty brand, has all of the clothes now and they are planning to put them in an exhibit. I think the clothes are currently in New York.

How has ANTM helped you? Are you still in contact with the people behind the show?

ANTM gave a major boost to my career and has helped widen my horizons; now people talk to me like I am a huge fashion expert. I have also expanded my client base locally and internationally. I have clients who live abroad, who fly me in, all expenses paid, to attend to them personally. ANTM has also brought recognition to the Philippines via the Filipino designers, including myself, who worked on some of the show’s episodes, and I am very grateful for that. Yes, I am still very much in touch with Tyra and her crew even today.

What else do you enjoy doing apart from designing? Do you have any hidden talents?

I seriously enjoy exercising and I also love to shop — I can shop till I drop! I don’t know if you call it “hidden talent” but I have a gift for spotting good finds. I also enjoy reading inspirational and business books and, of course, fashion magazines. They keep me up to date on global trends.

Who among the local designers are you closest to?

Inno Sotto is a good friend and a fashion icon I look up to. I am also close to Rajo Laurel, who is always very helpful and is like a teacher to me.

Which international fashion designer would you like to meet the most and why?

Tom Ford because of his creativity and the subtle sexiness of his designs. Elie Saab, too, because his designs are simple yet appealing. I can relate to both designers because they clearly love to dress women.

You have been the subject of Fashionpulis.com’s Inspiration or Imitation; it points out how one of your designs is very similar to that of an Italian designer. Is there anything you would like to say about the issue?

Well-suited: Filipino heartthrob Jake Cuenca at the Star Magic Ball in a Francis Libiran black double-breasted suit

I respect the opinion of others, and I cannot please everyone. All I know is that I make my clients very happy with the clothes I make for them.

Fashion designers routinely get accolades from their peers in the industry. What is the best compliment you have received in your design career?

I have a whole range of clients and I love designing for women of all sizes. One time, a full-sized young woman came to me after being turned down by other designers because of her size; she wanted to have a wedding dress made. I designed a gown that accentuated her curves and made her look slimmer. After the ceremony she came up to me with tears in her eyes and told me, “Thank you so much for making me look and feel beautiful.” For me, that is the best compliment ever.

What is in store for the Francis Libiran brand in the future?

I am currently working on a new business venture; not too many people know but I actually started in ready-to-wear with the brand called Njork. I see myself going back full circle and returning to RTW. Of course, I will continue to create custom-made designs. Next year, I plan to open a stand-alone lifestyle store that will feature my clothes and accessories that I will source locally; 2013 will be a very exciting year for me.

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“100 – The Francis Libiran Fashion Gala, a Centennial celebration of Philippine fashion at the Grand Dame,” will be held this Friday, Sept. 28, at 7 p.m. at The Manila Hotel.