Denim domination
Who would have thought this fabric with humble beginnings would reach iconic status? This 18th-century indigo fabric originally worn by workers, farmers and miners for its durability has come a long way. In 1853, German immigrant Leob Strauss, who then changed his name to Levi, started a dry-goods wholesale business. During the California gold rush, a customer suggested that he make his rough canvas tents and wagon covers into pants instead. He did but the miners found the fabric irritating. So he replaced it with twilled cotton from the French town of Nîmes, from which “denim” is derived. Then, the idea for the rivets came from Jacob Davis, who used metal rivets to hold the pockets and the jeans together. Miners needed pockets that would not easily rip. Due to financial difficulties, he offered the idea to Strauss as long as he would pay for the patent. The deal was finalized and copper-riveted “waist-overalls” with leather labels of a picture of a pair of jeans that was being pulled between two horses were made and sold. This became the unofficial uniform of the coal miners.
Technically, jean and denim aren’t the same, although both have European origins. Denim, the more expensive and stronger of the two, was woven with one colored thread and one white thread, while jean was twilled with two threads of the same color. “The word “jeans” came from the French phrase bleu de Gênes, literally the blue of Genoa. Take it from the Italians who were already fashion-forward then: this fustian — a blend of cotton, linen and/or wool was used for topcoats and trousers finely tailored for working men not engaged in manual labor. The fustian was so popular that it was imported to England in large quantities in the 16th century. Then another name, dungarees, came from Dungha, India, where sailors’ trousers were made of denim material.
The popularity of American western movies brought denim jeans to the public. The rugged lifestyle portrayed on the big screen added to the denim identity. Then, thanks to James Dean’s movie Rebel without a Cause, it became a statement. It was for those who wanted to defy culture and tradition — the non-conformists. It symbolized the carefree lifestyle of the Sixties and Seventies. It was all about rock glam, from acid wash to torn cutoffs and embellished in the Eighties. Then the Nineties paved the way for clean and classic lines. High-fashion houses created their own labels in different cuts and washes, which became status symbols. Remember Brooke Shields wearing only Calvin Klein jeans? The once-affordable working-class uniform became exclusive, expensive and coveted. The humble jean has reached the height of status symbol.
Denim has transcended time, genre and status. Who doesn’t have at least one item in her closet made of denim? Close to none. Denim will always be part of any woman’s wardrobe essentials and will continue to be a main player in fashion. This season, denim dominates the collections of the late Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Ralph Lauren, Louis Vuitton, D&G, Chloé, Just Cavalli, Versace and Chanel, to name a few. Head-to-toe looks will no longer land you on the worst-dressed list. On the contrary, it’s hip and stylish this season. Who would have thought ripped denim would make a comeback? This grunge look of the Nineties resurfaces this summer, from skirts to shorts and jeans. More than the piece itself, it is updated through its combinations. Forget the rebellious look and go for sexy. Too revealing for you? Go for patched. Who would have thought this way to mend a hole would be a trend? Patched denims in skinny jeans and flared cuts are hot this summer. Like the torn-denim trend, the denim shirt and jacket gets updated with the mix. A denim jacket paired with a floral dress, a denim shirt with a light fabric skirt or a denim vest combined with a feminine dress makes the difference. Another dominant trend is dyed jeans in all shapes and forms. The boyfriend jean of seasons past is still current, while there are more blue fashion picks from overalls to dresses and accessories.
Now’s the time to do some spring-cleaning. Check out your closet for those forgotten denim jackets, vests, shirts, skirts, shorts and pants. You will be surprised at what pieces you can resurrect. If you think your favorite worn-out jeans are ready for the throwaway pile, think again. Patch them to add summer’s latest detail. Or cut them to create shorts or a mini. Keep the top and attach a cool fabric to make a prairie skirt. Reinvent your resurrected pieces with the latest summer accessories. It’s the quickest way to update your look. Creativity and technology make the latest collections modern, appealing yet functional and comfortable. Here are quick tips to get into the summer’s cool blues:
• Invest in basics before indulging in trendy pieces.
• Try different styles to find the perfect fit for your body type.
• Lightweight fabrics work best for our weather.
• If you want seasonless pieces, choose basics with subtle details.
• One must have a dark, straight-cut pair of jeans. This classic can go from casual to party mode with just minor detail changes.
• Update your old pieces with current accessories. Invest in versatile accessories you can maximize to get your money’s worth.
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Send queries and suggestions to jo@joyceoena.com.
