Petite luxe skincare

I’ve always been a closet Japan-ophile, fascinated with Nihon culture. I envy Japanese women, in particular, for their style, strength (Yoko Ono is a prime example of how they’re not submissive geishas), slenderness, and ageless appearance. While you can attribute their trim figures to a healthy diet, the agelessness may have something to do with the fact that Japanese women start using skincare by the age of 16, according to Saori Nakagawa and Harumi Sugawara of Junkisei, a Japanese skincare brand now available in the Philippines at Rustan’s Essenses.

Of course, at 16, it would be overkill for Japanese teens to be applying anti-aging creams. Rather, they look for moisturizers to combat the dry air of Japan’s temperate climate. In that light, Junkisei can be viewed either as a starter skincare line for young women, or as very affordable moisturizers for the more mature set: it’s readily available in Japanese drugstores at low prices, but still boasts that Japanese safety, sterling quality and touch of luxury.

In the Philippines’ more humid clime, Junkisei Prime, the brand’s line of high-tech hydrating products, is aimed at more mature women suffering from dry skin, or 20-plus office workers who’d like to start maintaining their youthful looks.

“The air is dry in the air-conditioned environments we work in,” observes Sugawara, a regional manager in the marketing and sales section of Kosé’s international operation division. “The oil in our skin stays, but the water in our skin evaporates, so applying moisturizer is very important for beautiful skin.”

Made for home use, Junkisei Prime offers the concept of “petite luxury,” which means that even if the line is affordable, the quality, packaging and technology behind the products make you feel like you’re using a luxury brand.

“Junkisei Prime fuses Eastern and Western medicine,” says Nakagawa, who’s also a regional marketing and sales manager in the international operation division of Kosé. “It penetrates deep into the skin to maintain moisture.”

She goes on to explain that while the oriental approach addresses the causes of an illness to cure it and create balance, the Western method concentrates on the rapid recovery of the body parts affected by the “illness” — in this case, a lack of moisture.

Six elements that go into each Junkisei Prime product:

1. Ingredients – These include two Asian herbal extracts: rehmanniae radix and tree peony (used in oriental medicine to heal and treat skin ailments) and three Western extracts: rooibos, echinacea and rosehip oil (antioxidants rich in linoleic acid, a component of ceramides).

2. Technology – Junkisei has two types of capsules: one for speedy delivery that creates a pathway for ingredients, facilitating quick infiltration of the skin; another for deep delivery into the skin, which enhances effectiveness.

“Skin becomes moist and supple without a sticky feel,” says Nakagawa.

3. Texture – All of the products in the range have light, gel-like textures, which suit more summery weather like ours.

4. Effect – Results of studies show that following use, Junkisei retained three times more moisture than two competing brands. Skin texture was also visibly finer and smoother.

5. Fragrance – The collection has a pleasing, herbal scent. The brand pays special attention to fragrance to give its skincare an indulgent, cosmetic-like feel.

6. Design – Junkisei’s elegant fuchsia and maroon packaging has the look of a much higher-end brand.

The basic lineup follows the typical four-step Japanese beauty regime of two types of cleansing, toning, then application of the treatment product. Demonstrating the Japanese love for ritual, Sugawara applied the products in succession on my hand, ending with a soothing massage. The six steps:

1. Oil Cleansing – Of all the cleansing oils I’ve tried, this is the lightest. To remove makeup, apply to dry skin. Add water and it becomes a milk you can rinse off.

2. Cream Wash – A foaming wash to achieve the cleanest clean. Squeeze out two centimeters of the cream and lather it up with your hands first, adding water to create bubbles. Never lather it up on your face, which irritates skin and makes it more sensitive. “You need the bubbles to scoop away impurities,” advises Sugawara. “Wash your T-zone carefully.”

3. Lotion – This toner is water-based to replenish moisture (alcohol strips and dries skin out). Pat on with a cotton wool and blend in gently with your fingers.

4. Milky Lotion – This light moisturizer completes the basic four-step routine. “Its formula is very unique; it penetrates very fast and deeply,” Sugawara says. “Penetration very important — if you have all the ingredients but they don’t penetrate your skin, it does no good.”

5. Cream – A special product with a richer texture for very dry skin.

6. Mask – Another extra for drier skin. Use once or twice a week (after the lotion) or whenever your skin looks tired. Leave on for five to 10 minutes. Blend the excess into your skin. One box contains four pieces.

In Japan, Junkisei launched Prime about five years ago. In addition to the Philippines, the brand is now being sold in Taiwan, China, Hong Kong, Singapore, and next year will expand to Malaysia.

The products are an easier sell in China because the Chinese can also read the Hiragana and Katakana characters on the label, says Sugawara. FYI, the first character means “moisture” or “hydration, “ the second means “skin,” and the third means “essence.”

Junkisei is under Japan’s Kosé Corporation, which is known for beauty brands such as Sekkisei, Awake and Fasio. If Junkisei is Kosé’s more affordable, mass-market skincare line, Sekkisei is her high-end sister. “In terms of price, Junkisei would cost US $15, versus Sekkisei at $50.” (In the Philippines prices range from P495 for the cleansers to P1,200 for the moisture-intensive creams and emulsions.)

According to Sugawara, Kosé, which was founded in 1946, was the first in the world to pioneer two-way powder foundation in 1976. Prior to that, only liquid and cream foundations were available. Until today the company is trading on the popularity of this innovation — watch out for Junkisei’s much-vaunted base makeup coming soon, housed, of course, in a beautiful compact that gives you that all-important touch of luxury.

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Junkisei Prime is available at Rustan’s Essenses stores in Makati, Shangri-La Plaza Mall, Alabang Town Center, Gateway, Robinsons Place Manila and Cebu.