Alex Bitong seeks a new kind of sexy

If we were to follow the predilections of international catwalks for spring/summer ’09, it seems that the flatter-every-figure shapeless silhouette is one of those emerging for next year, poised to be the new classic, especially if the global economy persists in the dismal state it is in now. Devoid as it is of cinching or form, this new silhouette is also usually free of embellishment or overt detailing, relying instead on bursts of brilliant color just to prove that fashion still makes leeway even for the least bit of frivolity and glamour.

In his collection for Fashion Watch, the four-series quarterly show housed at the Shangri-La Makati’s lobby supported by Nokia and Metrobank Femme, the designer showed the worth of being a veteran in his field by coming out with a clean and well-constructed collection that updated shapeless into an entirely different status, as well as proved that shapeless does not come with a no-brainer conclusion that it’s also unsexy. Which is ironic, especially since Bitong has been vocal about his inspiration being Sophia Loren, probably one of international cinema’s sexiest women, who, even now in her 70s, can turn heads.

Prioritizing the rather bulbous definitions of Oriental lanterns, Bitong’s solid-colored dresses relied on sleek construction, good fabric choices and discreet pleating and tucking here and there to subtly impress. His dresses, whether floor-length or cut at the knee, easily fall on the female figure and promote sexiness, not through tightly-nipped waists or a mighty show of cleavage, but through the classy baring of the shoulders and the clavicle. He uses strapless styles and Sabrina necklines to also leave the neck exposed, as if to say that this woman is confident enough to court attention just by a simple upsweep of her hair. Sleek is sexy and in Bitong’s case it is also very now.

To cut the monotony of his unadorned shifts, save for one beaded orange dress with a funnel neckline that seems insignificant to the collection, Bitong goes for a bit of drama by attaching feathers to bodices and hemlines. And even these frilly accents, instead of being deemed too flamboyant, add a bit more polished glamour to his shifts. There’s the one dress that is completely made of feathers topped by a structured waisted jacket — frivolous, had it been made by amateur hands; made by Bitong, however, it comes off as very sophisticated and very promising. Then there’s also that black layered strapless dress that relied on strings — attached all over — to add some sway and flaunt, appropriate for a finale and stunning in its simplicity.

Like every other designer, it seems, Bitong is not discounting timeless black going into the holidays and the upcoming summer season, using it heavily among brighter shades of fuchsia and orange. He is a practical designer, one who, more importantly, realizes the even more pragmatic sensibilities of his clients. He makes clothes for women to wear, without discounting trend and vision, discreet their manifestation may be. All in all, Alex Bitong’s collection is like the designer himself: discreet, understated, but ultimately effective.

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