Old Hollywood made new

Ito Curata is, no doubt, comfortable with eveningwear. The designer, who, at one point in his career was based in San Francisco and was designing for the likes of Sharon Stone, clearly showed off to fruition his element in his turn for the third installment of Fashion Watch at the Makati Shangri-La’s lobby. Long and slinky evening gowns in fabric meant to really show off a woman’s figure — silk organza, jersey, jacquard — were the highlights of a collection reminiscent of Old Hollywood glamour. “That’s really my signature,” says the gracious designer, who is incidentally celebrating his 20th year in the fashion industry. “I love the glamour of Hollywood during the ‘50s and the ‘60s, but I, of course, try to keep my silhouettes updated and modern.” By modern, he is referring to the low sexy backs, geometric cuts and sheer chiffon tops that just relied on exquisite beading to detract from the showing of too much skin.

 Curata’s excellent use of detail also manifests his competency as a designer attuned to the times. Details such as intricate ruching, ruffle multi-layers and petal-style bundles complete evening dresses that would easily cross over from Grace Kelly to Gwyneth Paltrow. Plus, his abundant use of the sleek serpentine or fishtail silhouette would have done any of these style icons’ figures proud. “The serpentine style enhances the woman’s body. It’s a timeless silhouette that you still see a lot of now,” says the designer. Although, if you ask him, his timely use of predominantly aubergine and gunmetal shades was just coincidental.

Curata’s use of purple, one of the colors very much present in the fall collections this season, and its familial shades — plum, mulberry, eggplant — was actually inspired by a watch ad. He loved the color so much he decided to create a collection out of it. “Aubergine is my new black,” he quips. He also injects more fun with the use of hot pink, actually starting the show with the shocking shade on button-heavy structured peacoats and cinch-waist jackets that act as the perfect complements to black sparkly cocktail dresses and gray poufy skirts. He also ended with fuchsia, on a sleek, beautifully-constructed, high-neck gown with a profusion of petal details and a long train. That was actually Curata’s cheeky version of the bridal gown. “It worked anyway, right?”

The biggest buzz of the afternoon, apart from the clothes themselves, was the presence of President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo. Curata is one of the designers who habitually dresses up the President. He’s been providing formal wear and suits for GMA for nearly three and a half years. In fact, the dresses she wore to the State of the Nation Address in 2005 and 2006 were his creations. “I wasn’t really expecting her to come. I just sent her an invite,” shares the designer, “So it was really, really sweet of her to come.”

After 20 years in the business and for his very first solo show in the Philippines, Ito Curata deserves no less than the most prestigious attendance.

* * *

For inquiries on the Fashion Watch Quartet series, call Makati Shangri-La at tel. 840-0884 or 813-8888 ext. 7588/7599.

* * *

E-mail comments to ana_kalaw@pl-dtdsl.net.