Kebaya is killer, batik is beautiful

He has dressed celebrities like Mariah Carey, Kylie Minogue, and the Clintons. But Indonesian designer Adjie Notonegoro says he will always stick to his roots, doing modern wonders with the kebaya, a traditional women’s blouse, as well as batik, a textile considered an Indonesian art form.

“It is a traditional costume that we have made very modern for the line,” shared Notonegoro, who recently staged a fashion show at the grand ballroom of the Heritage Hotel Manila.

The event served as the grand launch for “Batik and Cuisine: A Heritage of Indonesia,” a cultural program sponsored by the hotel in partnership with the Indonesian Embassy.

“I want to tell everyone in the world that batik is not from Malaysia,” declared Notonegoro, “because the original comes from Indonesia.”

The Jakarta-based designer is an original in himself, with a fashion status paralleling fellow Asians Vera Wang and Kenzo, as well as close personal ties to Giorgio Armani and the late Gianni Versace.

Notonegoro, who revealed that he began in plus-size designs — “because nobody was thinking of the big woman,” — attributes much of his success to word of mouth. “If you have a good relationship (with the clientele) in Indonesia, it is easy for you to work,” he said.

Indonesian Ambassador to the Philippines Irzan Tandjung emphasized the importance of batik, a fixture in Indonesian art and craft for centuries. He described the intricately dyed fabric as a product not only of ancient tradition but also of cutting-edge innovation.

“Batik (is) a part of the unique and exotic culture of Indonesia,” said Tandjung.

Notonegoro was just as passionate about the kebaya. The long-sleeved blouse, reaching mid-thigh and usually made in a delicate material, is the perfect blend of modesty and sensuality. “If a woman wears the kebaya, she will look sophisticated, elegant, sexy,” explained the designer, who counts Indonesian actress Widyawati and American supermodel Christy Turlington as his muses. “Regal,” he added, after pausing to find the word. “Like royalty.”

The hotel went all-out for the fashion event, co-sponsored by Cebu Pacific, Beyond Exposition, Sabrina, and Millennium Hotel Sirih Jakarta. A runway in the classic T-shape was even custom-built for the occasion. Candlelit cocktails were followed by a scrumptious Indonesian banquet prepared by two chefs flown in specially from Jakarta. Foreign dignitaries — most of them conversing in Bahasa — wore their most vivid batik and kebaya ensembles, which prompted Heritage’s general manager Eddie Yeo to remark, “Tonight we will add brilliant colors to Manila’s fashion scene.”

Brilliant was right. “The woman wearing my collection is always eye-catching,” observed Notonegoro. The designer was accompanied by eight Indonesian supermodels who sashayed down the runway in stunning Notonegoro creations.

The fashion show was divided into two parts: the kebaya dresses and the batik evening gowns. The first segment highlighted the beauty and elegance of the kebaya — with a modern twist. The blouses were constructed in lace and embroidered with crystals. Paired with a complimentary batik skirt or worn over a long frock, the kebayas proved to be as effortlessly feminine as Notonegoro attested. “My specialty in design is very classic, very womanly,” explained the designer. A range of colors from bright hues to metallics showed off the garment’s versatility, while its glamour aspect was emphasized by beehive hairdos, large silk fans, and a bevy of diamonds.

After a trilingual musical performance from local pop sensation Lala (the artist sang in English, Tagalog, and Bahasa), the second segment of the show began. Through a blanket of fog, models emerged in sweeping formal gowns festooned with oversized bows and puffed sleeves. An observable trend in the collection was the voluminous, floor-length coat and trailing, old-Hollywood hemline. Other fabrics, such as satin and velvet, were contrasted with the batik to provide texture — a practice that harkens back to some of Notonegoro’s favorite designers, such as Yves Saint Laurent and Valentino.

With such major fashion feats, what more is there left to do for Adjie Notonegoro? The answer: Fitriani. The seasoned couturier will work on a series of exclusive collections under the Fitriani label. “I am very excited,” expressed Notonegoro, revealing that the first store of the stylish tandem will open in London this September. “And very lucky.”

Luck, however, seems to have less to do with the matter than honest-to-goodness talent. Asked for the source of his inspiration, the designer quickly replied, “Anywhere. Sometimes I’m in my bathroom, or in the car, and then—” He snapped his fingers.

“Just like that.”