The twists and turns of F.A.M.E.
October 26, 2005 | 12:00am
There’s nothing like the first day of F.A.M.E. The energy was palpable. You could feel it the minute you entered the World Trade Center, site of the international trade show that CITEM (Center for International Trade Expositions and Missions) has been organizing for more than two decades now to become Asia-Pacific’s hotbed of design in furnishings, gifts, holiday décor, fashion accessories, and fine jewelry.
Twice a year, export companies work on collections to present to the world market of buyers – distributors, retailers, and consumers. For the October edition of the show, the theme was "Beyond Words."
Ambitious, you might say.
With the fresh coat of paint on the booths barely dry, the carpet laid out moments before the opening, and prized prototypes just positioned on their pedestals by exhibitors who just came from their factories, the atmosphere was, indeed, a mixture of both excitement and apprehension.
Sellers were anticipating their clients’ reaction to the new products.
Are they worthy enough to modify desires for the coming season? Buyers, on the other hand, were all revved up to do the halls in search of the next big thing that would fly off the shelves.
First-timers may have been wondering, "Was the trip all the way to Manila worth it?"
For exhibitors, another source of apprehension was the selection of the KATHA awardees by judges who were going from booth to booth on the first day of the fair.
The award recognizes those who demonstrate outstanding ingenuity through their products, booth presentations, promo collaterals, and websites.
Quite a tough job, considering that over 500 companies and thousands of products were on show and were potential nominees.
We bumped into one of the judges, bag designer Bea Valdes, by the entrance.
It’s a wonder she found time to do the job, considering her workload of filling in orders for luxury retailers Barneys and Saks, among others.
But she was only too happy to see the new products on show and do her share in the development of Philippine design.
She has even agreed to be a merchandising consultant for the F.A.M.E show next April.
Another designer-in-demand who took time out to judge was Inno Sotto, known for his unerring taste not only in fashion but in decorating and entertaining as well.
He was equally on edge as Bea was, realizing the urgency of the job at hand.
Just finishing Hall 4, the fashion hall, was architect Joey Yupangco, whose iconic furniture store, Domani, now displays Carlo Tanseco’s "Full Bloom" chair alongside the Italian and French greats.
Other handpicked judges making their rounds were fashion designer Cesar Gaupo, architect Ed Calma, and Lesty Mijares, VP for hardgoods of the Foreign Buyers Association of the Philippines.
We had to congratulate Fe Agoncillo-Reyes, CITEM’s executive director, for managing to get these distinguished personalities out of their busy schedules to be able to judge for KATHA, which has definitely helped upgrade the quality of design and craftsmanship in the country.
Beaming in a vintage linen suit despite the taxing schedule of the past weeks, Fe arrived at the Fashion Hall with Vittorio Barba, award-winning fashion designer who was chosen as the F.A.M.E show’s merchandising consultant for fashion accessories and jewelry.
He had to work with leading exporters for the past few months to design and produce the quintessential fashion products for 2006.
These were displayed in a central setting which he entitled "Twists and Turns," somehow descriptive of the two decades he has spent in the fashion business, with several awards to his name, including the Designer of the Year from the Young Designer’s Competition in 1992.
Vittorio has definitely matured since then, when he was known for his show-stopping eccentric designs.
Not that he has gone totally mainstream, which is definitely not in his personality.
The quirkiness has just been tempered to produce desirable pieces which have trademark twists to distinguish them from the flock.
The booth itself is a case in point: Instead of standard, confining square walls, he opted for a more dynamic descending "S" shape in white with its oh-so-soignee curves on both ends to divide the setting into two groupings of all-white mannequins to better highlight the accessories he designed.
The collection was new and fresh, with Vittorio’s signature edgy but definitely wearable style.
Tough chic looks of chunky chain necklaces were reinvented with the innovative use of specially treated clay in super-matte finishes in basic black, red, and white.
This made for a lighter look which was made more interesting and ethereal with Buddha head charms – a delightful and whimsical touch of the Orient.
The same magic clay was used to fashion delicate flowers into necklaces and bracelets.
Real metal bolts and screws, on the other hand, were used for harder-edged jewelry.
As a tribute to the vinta of Mindanao, Vittorio fashioned handsome clutches with the stripes and triangles of the beloved sailboat, but in delicious colors of cafe latte, dark chocolate, and tangerine.
The stripes also appeared in multiple slim panels to form a foulard. For his woven shawls, he used a grid pattern which looked very modern and sculptural when worn.
Although some accessories were decidedly male or female, many of them were unisex, that allows the wearer a great amount of flexibility in styling.
Perhaps what makes Vittorio’s accessories so easy to wear is the fact that they have a modern, contemporary feel and a certain timelessness.
The designer does not believe in limiting oneself to particular trends or eras, after all, and feels that accessorizing should be "fun and should never be taken too seriously."
From the central setting, we headed on to Sharon Azanza’s Talimaya, where chic bags are coveted by top buyers from Europe, Japan, and America.
This season is no exception with her Marrakesh line of bags, sandals, and bib necklaces, all impeccably beaded to perfection in Talimaya’s casually elegant style.
The spirit of Talitha Getty was definitely there, but updated for the digital age. Also on show at Talimaya was Bettina Osmeña’s sleek jewelry which she will also be showing in Paris: gorgeous cuffs in galouchat with sterling silver and gemstones; necklaces of gold rings and horn with an Edie Sedgwick vibe, gold geometric earrings which were both Ancient Greece and swinging ’60s.
Just as we were concluding our conversation with Sharon and Bettina, we heard a commotion across the hall at Avatar, the celebrated jewelry atelier from Cebu which has won the KATHA and recently won an award for design at the Eclat de Mode in Paris. Designer and managing director Butch Carungay had just popped a bottle of his favorite Veuve Clicquot for his guests, which included long-time foreign buyers as well as friends like writer and loungewear designer Celine Lopez, also an Avatar fan and no doubt a major source of inspiration for those decadent jewels the world can never seem to get enough of.
Another guest was Oskar Atendido, director of the F show which covers all that is new and noteworthy in fashion.
Having been in the accessories business himself, Oskar couldn’t help but admire the chunky coral pieces mixed with stamped leather and wood from the Marrakesh maiden collection and the "Tropical Temptress" necklace of shell garlands, given a cosmopolitan edge with huge, blue-white crystals.
Other collections like the St. Tropez Siren and the Harajuku Princess also had stellar pieces with surprising, new combinations of materials and shapes (thanks to new laser technology which the company has invested in); and all perfect for the next hot date or cocktail party.
Butch always manages to capture the vibe of the moment, or rather the vibe to come, since this line is for Spring/Summer 2006.
A couple of champagne flutes and 535 booths later, we had definitely seen an eyeful and were ready to call it a day but noticed a jewel box of a booth on the way out and decided it was too good to pass up.
True enough, it was the Swarovski booth displaying works by commissioned designers like D’Oro Barandino for Jim Castler, Happy David and Amina Aranaz.
Swarovski is light years away, with designs for Fall/Winter 2006-2007.
Their theme, "Guiding Light," takes us to the next age with optimism and enthusiasm.
D’Oro managed to put light into the humble materials of his native Cebu with necklaces of wood, raffia, and horn, masterfully mixed with crystals.
Happy David’s Neon Lights collection used bits of computer chips and electronica to make some very hip accessories just right for the cyber generation.
Amina Aranaz had the most opulent bags ready for Stage Lights and the Moon Light, mixing silk taffeta, ormulu, ribbons, beads, and crystals for dramatic entrances as well as romantic evenings.
There were more than enough objects of desire even just in that last booth deserving of another toast to Filipino talent and ingenuity.
But the gates were closing and the Veuve Clicquot was another shuttle bus away.
We shall just have to wait in anticipation of the new twists and turns in Philippine design at the next F.A.M.E in April 2006 when Butch once again wheels in a couple of cases of his favorite bubbly.
Cheers!
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