Guam: The new shopper’s paradise
September 28, 2005 | 12:00am
For the typical Filipino traveler, Guam still has to pull its weight as a possible travel destination. Overshadowed by the packaged lure of cosmopolitan Asian countries, the image of Guam coincides with that of U.S. military bases in a barrack-ridden island. What the typical Filipino traveler doesn’t know is that Guam, though it doesn’t have the glamorous reputation of other destinations, has a lot more to offer than beefy men in camouflage. More importantly, this Pacific island has abundance of the favorite Filipino leisurely pursuit – shopping.
Considered an unincorporated territory of the United States, Guam is part of Oceania and is located between Japan and the Philippines (a direct flight from Manila takes about three hours). The island is small (barely 550 sq. km. in land area) and navigable in two and a half hours. Less than 200,000 people make up the population: 37 percent are native Chamorro and the remaining 63 percent are from different ethnicities. Filipinos make up 26 percent of the present population, which explains the suspicion from immigration and that creeps up the more you get to know the island. Americans consider it as their gateway to Asia and the Micronesian islands, as it is bordered by small islands such as Palau, Saipan, and Chuuk.
For a reference point closer to home, Guam echoes the atmosphere of Subic, or what it would have been had the Americans stayed. The fresh air, beach enclosure, and the distinct absence of high-rise complexes spell out an island just getting used to the cosmopolitan injections of wide, smooth roads, shopping malls, and luxury hotels. Since Guam is US territory, everything works pretty much the way it does in a Los Angeles suburb where everything is clean, the service is efficient, and people obey traffic rules.
In Guam, the lifestyle is defined by a laid-back vibe and a flip-flop dress code. Both are antithetical and at the same time symbolic of the contemporary culture in Guam, perceived and relied on to be the island’s biggest attraction. For an island that has no manufacturing capabilities, Guam’s GDP relies heavily on the US military bases it houses and its tourism industry. Approximately $15.9 million is generated each year by tourism alone (most of the tourists are the ubiquitous Japanese travelers who, in May of this year alone, reached a headcount of almost 100,000).
The opportunity for cheaper pricing has made Guam a viable shopping destination in the last few years and has lured bargain-hungry tourists, which in turn attract the big-name fashion brands. Heading the enticement committee is fashion house Louis Vuitton, now constructing a global store in tourist-central Tumon. This new Louis Vuitton, according to Dee Perez of Louis Vuitton Guam, Inc., "will carry the entire universe of Louis Vuitton." Large and small leather goods, shoes, Marc Jacobs’ heavenly ready-to-wear creations, accessories, jewelry, watches, and limited-edition items will stock up about 10,000 meters of selling space. Due to open by the end of the first quarter of 2006, this Louis Vuitton Global store is expected to bring in more designer-obsessed visitors, mostly from Asia and nearby countries. Right now, two Louis Vuitton boutiques stand in Guam: one at the DFS Galleria and one at the Tumon Sands Plaza. Though these are impressive enough in size and merchandise, these boutiques only offer leather goods, shoes, and watches. Other big-name brands proffering tax-free incentives (and that go on sale for as much as 50 percent off on certain months) are Chanel, Christian Dior, Hermes, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Tiffany & Co., among others. All these fashion biggies form a stylish row along Tumon Bay, the most luxurious stretch in Guam.
Tumon Bay is where the stylish tourist set converges and where the luxury hotels, duty-free stores, entertainments centers, bars, and restaurants continually crop up. At the heart of Tumon are duty-free centers such as the Plaza, Galeria, Tumon Sands Plaza, which all stand beside tourist havens Hard Rock Café and Planet Hollywood.
For Western-style bargain thrills, Guam has the world’s biggest Kmart (open 24 hours), which is an uphill 10-minute walk from Tumon Bay, and an average-sized Ross at the Guam Premier Outlets (GPO) located in the Tamuning village proper. GPO is your typical American outlet set-up; familiar brands such as Anne Klein, BCBG, Nike, Nine West, Max Studio, and Levi’s sell their merchandise at about 30 to 50 percent less than retail price.
Another must-see for shoppers is the Micronesia Mall in nearby Dededo, not much for its selection of stores but for the cheap thrill of knowing that you are exploring a foreign mall owned by a Filipino. Micronesia Mall is partly owned by Filipino-Chinese retail tycoon Henry Sy, who is chairman and developer of the SM chain of stores here in the Philippines. Though the Micronesia Mall is minuscule compared to Megamall, it is the largest American-style mall in Guam and contains two levels of boutiques, a Macy’s department store, a food court and several cinemas.
The best thing about shopping in Guam is how the local government has made each establishment easily accessible. Red trolleys and shuttle buses ply the shopping route every 20 minutes, with stops along Tumon Bay, Kmart, GPO, and the Micronesia Mall. Each ride costs two dollars, or you can avail of a one-day pass for five dollars. DFS Galleria also has its own DFS shuttle bus, which makes regular trips down Tumon Bay.
A search for local handicrafts and produce should bring you to the Chamorro Village in Hagatna. Created to promote local culture, the village is open daily and offers fresh fruit and vegetables, local handicrafts and curios (usually jewelry made of coconut shells and seeds), souvenir items, Guam-made chocolate, and delicacies made by the Chamorro, Chinese, Japanese, Greeks, Jamaicans, Mexicans, and Filipinos. Locals encourage tourists to visit every Wednesday, from 5 to 9 p.m. At this time, the Chamorro Village comes alive with performances of ancient cultural dances, reggae and live bands, demonstrations by master craftsmen, and costumes and exhibitions by Guam’s youth.
The flea markets and bargain markets in Tamuning are also worth checking out. Interesting buys include skirts worn by women from Chuuk, one of the islands in the Micronesia chain. The heavily embroidered and brightly colored skirts come in various designs and can satisfy bohemian inclinations. Don’t be surprised though if the Filipina vendor informs you that these Micronesian skirts are made in the P.I.
Far from the madding tourist crowd, within the suburban streets of Hagatna, stands a small store that some locals don’t even know about. Advertised by a big bright, inviting sign tacked underneath a trellis of vines, Guinahan Chamoru is a tiny establishment with substantial intentions. The store, owned by accessory maker and craftswoman Julie Benavente displays creations by almost 40 of Guam’s local artisans. Here, the wares are made with love for visitors who have come to love Guam and its heritage. Each piece, exquisite and one-of-a-kind, reveals a little of Guam’s history – jewelry made of spondyllus shells highly valued by the ancient Chamorro, ceramic pottery inspired by prehistoric pots found within Guam’s numerous caves, paintings that reflect Chamorro art. Part of this shopping experience is Julie’s hospitality; apart from giving you a welcome gift, a ritual common among Chamorros, Julie is more than willing to regale you about Guam’s rich history and its engaging folklore.
Pigging out in Guam should also be considered. The island’s cuisine is a rich mix of Spanish, Filipino and Pacific dishes, just liberally seasoned with spice. Delicacies include stews, whole roast pig, tropical fruits, yams, coconut crabs, and just about anything barbecued. A must in any Chamorro meal is finadene, a hot sauce made of red peppers, soy sauce, lemon juice and onions. Some versions include coconut milk, which greatly helps in toning down the spiciness.
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