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Uniforms for chic people | Philstar.com
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Fashion and Beauty

Uniforms for chic people

CHUVANNESS - CHUVANNESS By Cecile Zamora -
I’ve been asked to write about what people should wear and not wear. The thing is, I love fashion, but I don’t believe in outfits all the time or telling people how to dress. For me, it’s like wear what you want.

On a recent trip to Hong Kong, the friendly Indian moneychanger mistook me for a domestic helper.

With apologies to Ben Chan, I was wearing my typical uniform of loose black Bench V-neck tee (I own four), jeans and trainers.

My friends tipped me off on the plain Bench tees.

I have friends who are obsessed with them, owning five or six in all-white, all-black, or different colors.

I do love to get dressed for certain occasions, but if you’re working and running around the whole day, who wants to be in an outfit?

I spoke to my stylist friend Michael Salientes and came up with names of some really chic people who don’t need to make an effort every day.
It’s Ok To Wear A Uniform
Yohji Yamamoto is my crush.

Never mind that he has funny hair and a goatee and looks like a candidate for Queer Eye. He’s one of the world’s greatest designers.

He’s also a martial artist and chairman of Karatenomichi World Federation Headquarters.

When not wearing his karate outfit, he’s always in a black uniform of long-sleeve top and loose pants.

Every time I bump into Margarita Fores, she’s in a simple white top, black pants and flats.

"It’s her work clothes, sort of like comfortable clothes, but if you look at her it’s different," said stylist Michael Salientes.

"It’s not Gap. It’s probably a Dior top or a custom-made Ascot Chang with her initials on it, Prada pants and Chanel shoes. She has a very deep knowledge of quality clothes. She understands the luxurious side of clothes, not necessarily the label."

I thought of Bill Cunningham of the New York Times whom I used to see at the shows when I was studying in New York.

He’s at the center of all fashion events and photographs the world’s most beautiful clothes and people, yet he’s always in the same blue parka.

"He’s beyond dressing," said Michael who met him while working in New York.

"I went to his apartment behind Carnegie Hall. It’s 80 percent books, just books piled up 10 feet high. And like six or eight pieces of clothing on a rod, pressed and hung.

"He’s been wearing those for the past 30 to 40 years. I don’t think he gained weight. Very Sears-Roebuck ang look. Completely non-designer. The essence is Sears, very American working class."

Marc Jacobs, who does wonderful things with Louis Vuitton and dictates to fashion-conscious women worldwide, is often seen in a favored blue shirt, khakis and Converse shoes.

While searching his photos on the Net, I found four pictures of him in the same or similar blue shirt: Untucked, tucked in, with a white T-shirt inside, and a gray sweater on top.

"That style with the Converse is so big now," said Michael. "That’s been his uniform for so long."
* * *
Sofia Coppola is my idol. She is also Marc Jacobs’ muse and is often photographed wearing him. When I saw the Behind The Scenes portion of the Lost in Transalation DVD, I was surprised to see Sofia, one of the chicest women in the world, in a simple long-sleeve shirt and pants to work. Not that she’s expected to wear a designer dress while filming, but I was really impressed by how normal and simple she looked.

Tadi de Leon who works at Paul Smith is "a really good example of a good straight dresser," says Michael. "Like a nice, untucked Paul Smith shirt and Margiela jeans. Somehow he looks great. Just one layer: Long sleeves, straight jeans, not too many details."

"Every day, it’s always an untucked shirt," said Tadi. "Basically the same shape, iba lang ang color. You never see me tucking in my shirt, because I have a flat butt. I don’t tuck in my shirt unless it’s really necessary, like a formal thing. I usually wear canvas shoes like Converse because I stand all day."

A friend of mine recalled an old Vogue article that said Tom Ford, when he was still at Gucci, would pick six pairs of jeans, five white shirts, and five black shirts and wear it the whole year.

"Fashion is the last thing I want to think about for myself," said Tom Ford in an interview with the Associated Press.

"I’m really quite classic. I wear almost the same thing every day, a dark suit and a white shirt. For evening, a velvet jacket, a white shirt and dark trousers," he said. "It’s almost a uniform."

ASCOT CHANG

ASSOCIATED PRESS

BEHIND THE SCENES

MARC JACOBS

MICHAEL SALIENTES

NEW YORK

PAUL SMITH

SHIRT

TOM FORD

WEAR

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