Lulu Tan-Gan: Knit Wit

Think knits and only one name comes to mind: Lulu Tan-Gan. She has earned the title "Queen of Knits," an honor that recognizes her mastery of a craftsmanship, and her ever-evolving grasp of fashion trends. Her designs are global, definitely four seasons, yet distinctly Asian with threads of western practicality.

Her wit when it comes to knits is unparalleled. For instance, a basic top comes with a shrug that can be converted to a shawl, a scarf, one sleeve, two sleeves or a neck muffler. Her creations have been presented in Europe and Asia, and are exported worldwide. But her creative energy and passion transcend the runway and retailing.

In the Philippine fashion industry, Lulu Tan-Gan has become a leader, a provocateur, an educator and a doer in a field that sometimes has an oversupply of all-show and all-talk elements. Together with other fashion frontliners, Lulu has designed projects, tying up with the Philippine government and searching all the way to the world’s fashion capitals for opportunities to improve the local industry. She has been Philippine fashion’s French connection, working hard so that young designers may reap recognition in Parisian design contests, and promoting a bond between French and Filipino designers.

Since 1992, she has led Philippine fashion associations – Filipino Designers Group (FDG), then the Fashion & Design Council of the Philippines (FDCP) – to organize missions and support the industry through continuous participation in the International Young Fashion Designers Competition in Paris, partnering with the Department of Trade and Industry.

One of her missions is to professionalize and strengthen fashion designers’ educational foundation, and to reorient garment and textile manufacturers’ view on product development.

For such achievements, Lulu Tan-Gan will be awarded the title of Chevalier dans l’Ordre des Arts et Lettres by Jean-Jacques Aillagon, French Minister of Culture and Communication, on July 8 at the residence of French Ambassador Renee Veyret.

The Queen of Knits certainly has a well-knit view of the fashion industry.

PHILIPPINE STAR: What is it about knits that got you excited and focused?

LULU TAN-GAN: I love texture and color. I love crafts. Knitwear allows me to innovate, not just design garments. If I were into woven, I feel I would be restricted to fabrics sold in Manila. With knits, I can custom-order yarn colors I want. By mixing yarns and colors, I can play with a range of patterns with the knit loom machine. I then design the garments.

Knits are a constant in every generation, and there is always something nostalgic about them for everyone.

Nostalgic knits are mostly hand-made or hand-loomed. They are softer and timeless. The use of natural fibers further adds grace to its age, giving it the vintage look.

Are we speaking about wine, women or knitwear?

Oh yes, they are all the same. If they come from good stock and are well cared for, they all age gracefully. Ha ha!

Knits regularly experience a stylistic revival. The kaleidoscopic knits by Missoni in the 70s, for instance, were reinvented by a younger Missoni – Angela – in the 90s.

Yes, the Missonis are an Italian family engaged in the manufacture and retail of beautiful knitwear. Angela modernized Missoni and her designs are new in form but stylized in print and pattern. I have not seen anything new the past two years though. Perhaps the younger generation is not as interested? Or maybe the older generation still has a stronghold over the next? It is their design that has sold!

Angela Missoni’s parents were into knitting. Was your interest in knits rooted in anything "hereditary"? I know you started out as a designer for shoes at SM.

Not at all. My father was into oil refinery. My job at his company was easy, like issuing checks, but I would always make mistakes. Well, that hasn’t changed! I could not type either. My dad was most understanding to give me the freedom to explore and pursue my passions.

Was fashion your first interest?

No, my first choice was to take up Political Science in college. I wanted to work for the UN. As a student, I had the passion for History and Geography. Arts came second. But I loved crafts as well. I loved working with my hands. I enjoyed classes in embroidery and rug-making. A former schoolmate of mine reminded me that I created leather neckpieces and my school mates loved them. They started ordering from me, and that was perhaps my first entrepreneurial attempt.

Who is your icon when it comes to knits? Sonia Rykiel?

I admire her staying power. She has a very practical and feminine line, and her collection is consistently appealing even up to today. I am sure she is youthful in mind and passionate in spirit, although I love two other labels that are not as commercial and of course, higher end – Spadafora and Jan Carlos. They are Italian and their knits are beautiful! They design and produce with the best of yarns.

You mentioned yarns. What’s the difference between the French and Italian yarns?

Personally, I find French yarns elegant, classic and refined. Italian yarns have more texture and are more raw and natural, although Loro Piana of Italy carries the most avant-garde yarns and materials. They even have yarns made from steel. Japan has very unconventional quality yarns, but they are just too expensive.

Does the Philippines have a knitwear industry? Or a fashion industry to begin with?

In my opinion, we do not. The fashion industry consists of different sectors: Textile, garment manufacturers, fashion retailers and designers. We need to have one vision, we need to know our mission, and we need to have common objectives. And of course, we need to implement them. The day these sectors collaborate, Manila can be the "Fashion Capital of Asia." This industry needs government support to solve each sector’s problems. An example would be to lower power costs for textile millers and manufacturers. Assisting legitimate retailers versus illegitimate ones could be another. In connection with the agricultural sector, it also helps to have your own raw materials. There are a host of other things, but we need a master plan and we need leaders who will be able to mobilize all towards the same direction.

Same old problems! Let‘s talk about what you’ve done. You have done so many things with knits, including long coats for travel. What is next?

Knit accessories such as scarves and bags. You’ll see them in three months’ time. As for clothing, popular demand has made me decide to continue my men’s line . . . only for fashionista men. Ha ha! For women, I’ll have a draped line for the last quarter of the year. I have other things in mind, but I’d rather not say until I am sure it will happen!

Knitwear used to mean sweaters in the local market, and you’ve revolutionized it as a fashion item. Were you ever afraid that it wouldn’t sell in Manila?

I was designing for women who travel, as well as expatriates and balikbayans who come and go. I guess I travelled and found knits most practical. I found it quite a bother to iron during trips or to have to worry about creases all the time.

What have been your all-time bestsellers?

Basics. Short sleeves. In RTW, basics like that don’t need too much designing; what is crucial is knowledge of accurate proportions. But that is a bore to most designers, me especially! So, so as not to be bored, I design clothes that make me happy, even if they might not sell. Ha ha! Well, so far, my merchandise has been balanced with both basics and fashion styles. They’ve also remained reasonably priced. My latest original design is this asymmetric top that you can wear in several ways. Believe it or not, it can be worn sleeveless or with a sleeve or two! It is an original pattern. Maybe I should have it patented!

You are in SM Department Stores, aside from your own boutiques in the malls. How much of your clientele is the mass market?

My design caters to young career women all the way to older cosmopolitan women. My materials are more delicate compared to t-shirts, synthetic wovens and jeans, which cater more to the mass market. SM Boutique, a section in SM, was the first to offer a venue for designer labels. At the moment, it might look like the boutique is in limbo, but I am quite certain it will have a comeback. Perhaps it needs young designers too. I think it is always good to have the young. It is healthy competition. They keep me alive.

You have been in the forefront of the fashion industry as president of the FDG (Filipino Designers Group) and the FDCP (Fashion and Design Council of the Philippines). Whatever happened to the FDG? And what is the FDCP into now?

The FDG members are still very close to each other but have been inactive as an association for several years now. The FDCP, on the other hand, is quite busy with fashion events. Randy Ortiz is president, whereas I am advisory chairperson.

In these past years, you have organized and supported the International Young Designers Competition, sending winning entries and designers to Paris. Why was that your focus as president of the FDCP?

Initially, it was just a project I supported as a member of the Filipino Designers Group. When I attended the competition the first year, I felt it was important for young designers to be exposed and further to be exposed at the right place, which is Paris, no less, the fashion capital of the world. I also thought that there were hardly any young designers after my generation.

What has been so far the outcome of these competitions?

First, we succeeded in creating a venue for yet unknown aspiring designers. Second, we also succeeded in attracting designers to street wear design rather than couture designing. We need more commercial-oriented and RTW designers for the local market, and even for export. Third, local brands had young designers to tap when they needed the young trend in their shows. Fourth, fashion shows have become the desired vehicle to promote other consumer items, such as mobile phones, beverages, and beauty products, among others. Fifth, more and more young people now want to study fashion and fashion-related courses. They realize that in order to remain successful, one has not only to be a technician but also to understand the business of fashion. I think in the near future, we will have a generation of creative and educated designers that connect with the market. Richard Tann’s Fashion Watch, a series of designer shows also revived and created a venue for designers in the early ’90s to showcase their talent. It is a pity that we do not have a biannual fashion trend show that has lasted for more than three years.

Fashion designer groups come and go. Is it really difficult to keep designers intact in a group?

Designers are artists. Most artists are non-conformists. To belong or to be accepted by conforming is not our prime concern. Artists are also moodier and have a lot of ego.

As a leader in the industry, what do you wish you could do?

I wish that our sectors could work more closely together. Manila has the potential to be the Fashion Capital of Asia. As I mentioned earlier, creativity is native to us. We need Filipino brand builders with non-restrictive global vision. We also need investors who believe in design and product development in order to create Manila-Wear as well as a "national" fabric, like the batik of Indonesia and the Thai silk of Thailand.

You have been very active with the Alliance Francaise lately.

I was invited to join Alliance Francaise in year 2002. Being a Francophile, I immediately said yes to Philippe Normand, the energy that vibrates in Alliance Francaise. It was also timely that Randy Ortiz took over the presidency of FDCP.

We heard the great news about your being awarded the French Ministry of Culture’s Chevalier dans l’Order des Arts et Lettres, on July 8.

Yes, there will be a short ceremony of the award hosted by the French Ambassador Renee Veyret. She is one super woman, full of energy.

So this is a recognition of your contribution to fashion?

I am not even aware there is such an award for fashion. But I was told it isn’t just for fashion but for promoting a relationship between the designers of France and the Philippines. I am happy the French government truly supports arts and culture.

Will we see a more Frenchy Lulu Tan Gan line soon? Oui?

Mais oui! Maybe that should be a good theme for the next season!

I know you love Paris! It’s your favorite shopping place?

I love to shop in Paris! And I love the flea market too. There are more choices in Paris than in any other fashion city, fashion-wise. Well, London too.

How do you describe your personal style?

Easy, spontaneous. Not studied.

What would you never wear?

Grunge.

Your advice to fashionistas?

Have fun dressing!