Cargo Culture

There was a time when only photographers, Eddie Vedder, and septuagenarians in those LL Bean– type outdoor sport catalogs wore cargo pants.

Too many pockets running down your leg just didn’t cut it as a fashion must-have. Then the skater culture and No Doubt’s Gwen Stefani took over in the mid-’90s, and suddenly even women were wearing the baggy bottoms with tiny tank tops and retro-style sneakers. Late last year, regulars in Vogue’s party pages–from artist Anh Duong to Hollywood’s Heather Graham–stripped cargos off its rugged reputation by wearing the cropped versions with strappy stilettos.

This summer, every design house tried to give a more functional edge to fashion, designating the comfortable, practical cargo pant as the choice wardrobe staple. Earlier this month, at the first Fashion Festival, all brands included in the show featured every different variations of the utility piece–cropped, ankle-length, buckled, strung-up–and in every fabric possible. The original cargo pant was made of practical cotton, but shops now boast of updated versions which include pieces done in denim, stretch twill, and khaki. Some brands even have cargos in silk and satin–just in case you feel like taking utility wear to the fine dining circuit.