More and more, fashion is focusing on individual style more than specific trends. More and more, designer styles are becoming more common than distinct. Years ago, you would be able to spot a Dior, a Balenciaga, an Yves Saint Laurent or a Chanel without looking at the label. Now, except for some Japanese designers and a few other new trendsetters like Nicolas Ghesquiére or Alexander Mc- Queen, the rest look the same. One pair of pants can pass for any designer by just changing its label. Then I noticed that other brands pick up the most sought-after trend in the past season and reinvent it in the next. I’ve seen the two-year-old Balenciaga bag with grommets and leather fringes reinvented to this day.
I’m not sure if we Asians will embrace the Oriental influence that was all over the runways. It’s nothing new to us, but it was a big hit in the rest of the world. My faves this season were Roberto Cavalli’s and Gucci’s chinoiserie. Handpainted, intricately embroidered and pleated kimonos and cheongsams stole the show at Gucci. The Suzie Wong look with thigh-high hemlines was on the Milan runway. My favorite piece was a reversible silk bomber jacket with Oriental-inspired embroidery. Great with jeans or silk tube pants! Cavalli sent his girls out in colorful micro-mini cheongsams, corsets and printed kimonos in faux tortoiseshell stiletto heels. It was a chic and modern version of the Orient. On the other hand, Gianfranco Ferre wrapped his girls’ jackets with colorful obis. Even Miuccia Prada embraced this influence with crisp cotton shirts accented with cheongsam closures.
We have long-standing love affairs with certain trends and the military influence is one of them. In the Seventies, the military coat came marching down the runways. Outfits were accented with medals and belted at the waist. Gold chains and gilt buttons glamorized the military look in the Eighties. But in the Nineties, the focus was more on the utility and function of the military uniform. Now, we are still madly in love with its might.
I’ve been wearing my father’s military dog tags since my college days and would you believe it’s now a big trend? Personalize an ordinary chain necklace with your memorable charms. It’s individual and fresh.
On the streets of Milan, the hardcore trend was in full force. Modern collections mixed with vintage uniforms personalized with crystals, cutout lace, chains, paintings and patches ruled the streets. Yohji Yamamoto came out three months ahead of the usual schedule to show his spring ready-to-wear collection. "I wanted to show in silence, with less people," he said when asked why he broke tradition. He began his couture-like show with military-inspired royal blue jumpsuits topped with army caps. Designer Michael Kors’ love affair with the military of seasons past was as strong as ever at the Celine collection.
Chains are abundant in the accessories department. The new woman is strong yet still feminine. Zips and chains give an aggressive look. Like the pirates of Captain Hook, leather, antiqued metal and lots of chains were the hottest accessories this season. In Yohji Yamamoto’s finale, versions of the grand gown came as bustier dresses, sometimes with a twist in the sculptured bodice anchored with asymmetrically fastened silver chains or bone necklaces. Christian Dior’s most sought after cropped military pants were wrapped with chains encrusted with crystals. Moschino, Jean Paul Gaultier, Versace, and Chanel all showed up with the "bad girl" influence.
So go and search for the piece you most covet. It’s just what you need to shake off the gloomy rainy days. It’s just what we women need to brighten our day a little.
Note: Runway photos taken from March 2003 Italian Vogue