They call Patrice Ramos-Diaz Babaeng Bakla. And that is a very flattering comment.
Because in the kingdom of Filipino fashion designers, gay designers used to believe they – and only they – reigned supreme.
They thought that only the bakla were creative enough, daring enough, innovative enough. The others – the female wannabes – they would rather call modista. Or boutique owners. Or whatever.
Perhaps only a few designers with the touch of a Coco Chanel or a Vivienne Westwood... or a Salvacion Lim Higgins would make the gay kingdom stop, look and quiver.
But now, we have a new breed of Babaeng Bakla in the industry.
Yes, Patrice Ramos-Diaz made them quiver when she almost won the 1997 Mega Young Designers Competition. She made them quiver with her flirty clothes in velvet and lace in "Fashion Watch." And when she got good reviews for her "Sheer Realities" exhibition organized by the Asia Society at the Met Museum in New York; her FAD collection at the NBC Tent and the Asean Trade Fair in Bangkok.
A UP Diliman graduate (Bachelor of Fine Arts, major in Visual Communications) who went on to Central Saint Martins in London for a summer course in Experimental Fashion Design, Patrice is one of the best proofs that it takes a woman designer to know what a woman really wants to wear. And that women have equal chances to excel as fashion designers.
Describe your beginnings as a fashion designer.
Patrice Ramos-Diaz: It all started when I joined the Mega Young Designers Competition and became 1st runner up. Before that, I was going through a confused state as to what I wanted to do with my life. I owned a beauty salon, which I managed. It was a stress-free life, yet I wasn’t fulfilled. I prepared my curriculum vitae and decided I would try out graphic design. Instead, I found myself joining a fashion competition.
My first shop was a small, one-bedroom apartment, which housed two sewers, a cutter, and a finisher/beader. Unexpectedly, I got swamped with work and within a couple of months had expanded my production to seven workers and a secretary. After a year, I moved to a bigger space and hired more people.
What made you think you would be a good fashion designer?
Fashion design has always been an interest of mine – though I never really thought of turning this interest into a career. To me, it was simply something I enjoyed doing.
Who were your best mentors in fashion?
Digna Rosales, Ronald Mendoza, Rajo Laurel gave me valuable advice and encouragement when I was starting. I value the opinion of Ariel Lozada.
Who or what inspires you to design?
I draw inspiration from people – the uniqueness of some individuals. While it is an important exercise in so far as design research is concerned, I really enjoy "people-watching." I admire women who have an innate ability to wear either the simplest or the most outrageous of clothes with flair and elegance. It takes confidence and striking a balance between humility and egotism. I find this so powerful. I also get inspired by unusual forms, textures, and colors of anything from found objects to nature. Sometimes I get details from historical costumes, art, architecture, or interior design. Music and film are big influences in fashion too.
Which fashion designer influences you, if at all?
Akira Isogawa. His pieces are very artistic, quirky yet very chic and wearable. Sometimes when I need to conceptualize, I try to put myself in what I believe is his frame of mind.
What do you consider your best creations thus far?
It could be the "Pastillas Collection" that I created for Richard Tann’s Rated Now show about two years ago. I did cutwork on silk organdy and metallic tissue in bright colors. It was heart-wrenching to cut holes in such expensive fabric but I was happy with the outcome. We had a ball doing that collection.
I also especially like the collection I did for Preview Magazine which was shown at the Zu in Shangri-La a few years back. I presented womenswear in menswear fabric such as wool and other suiting materials. The look was "mannish" yet feminine and classic while maintaining a cutting-edge style.
What designs/show did you regret doing?
Honestly, I don’t regret doing any show or collection. I did have somewhat disappointing pieces. I try to digest every disappointment as my way of striving to better myself.
Name an unforgettable moment in your fashion life.
Being in the same elevator at The Ritz with Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune during "Fashion Connections" in Singapore in August 1997 where I represented the Philippines.
Which designer would you consider your nearest rival? What makes you different from other designers?
I never thought of that... I don’t know. I’m just doing my own thing. What makes me different? Some designer friends in the industry have branded me as babaeng bading.
Well, one difference I observe is that I have a family. In fact, I draw a lot of inspiration from my good husband and three wonderful little boys.
What would you consider the true Filipino fashion design?
A designer’s aesthetics and principles are partially formed by one’s background, values, experiences, culture, and lifestyle. This is the core – the source of a designer’s creative spirit. We combine this with other outside influences such as inspirations, trends, or expressions of the zeitgeist or spirit of the times. My basic design philosophy is "be true to oneself." It’s alright to be influenced by foreign designers much as it is to be influenced by trends. But it is more important for us to find our own style as opposed to subscribing to what is prescribed by others. I think the solution is we have to tap into our core – our personal "well of ideas"– almost in a meditative way. Therefore, anything that I design should be considered Filipino design for the simple fact that I am Filipino. It may or may not be a terno or a malong. (Issey Miyake doesn’t make kimonos and obi-sash.) What we designers need is a common direction to come up with good international recognition for the design talent of Filipinos This is the present thrust of the FDCP (Fashion Design Council of the Philippines).
Who are the greatest designers today?
Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Hussein Chalayan, Marc Jacobs, Martin Margiela.
Name your list of Manila’s best dressed women.
Celine Lopez, Jo Ann Bitagcol, Angel Jacob, Daphne Osena, Bea Valdes, Cecile Zamora, Chechel Joson, TP Ocampo, Claudine Sia. There is honesty in the way they dress – their fashion is about self-expression. It creates a look that is easy and relaxed. There are many who wear beautiful and expensive clothes, but very few carry it with style.
Which famous women would you like to do a fashion makeover of? How would you dress her up?
Imelda Marcos – she looks stunning in her ternos. She is an image of smart sophistication and majestic character. No one else can wear the Philippine costume the way she does. She has become an icon in Philippine fashion. It would be interesting to do a fashion spread with her in a new look. Also Cherie Gil – she’s got panache, and will not be upstaged by any outfit.
What is your favorite decade?
I love the 1920s’ filmy, diaphanous dresses in flirty and flouncy silhouettes and very vintage details. I also like the ’50s and ’60s – I like the elegant quality about the clothes then.
What is a fashion trend you wish to start?
Local designer denims and dressy T-shirts – wouldn’t it be great to wear something as comfortable as a T-shirt and denim, yet look dressed up for a special occasion or event. Hard to imagine but not far from reality, especially with the new washes, finishes, and fabric manipulation. I’ve seen tailored denim jackets in the Hugo Boss stores.
What is so wrong about the Philippine fashion industry?
Fashion designers in the Philippines have a lot of potential. However, while I believe that we are long in talent, we fall very short as regards the necessary coordination and support from other related industries (e.g. garment manufacturing and textile industries). For instance, we struggle to source our fabric. Local textile millers are, to a certain extent, ill-equipped. The domestic situation does not give designers the flexibility and cost-effectivity to incorporate ideas on textile design. To be competitive within the region, let alone around the world, local fashion designers will really need to hook up with textile companies abroad such as China, Japan, or Korea.
It’s been a long, arduous task to link designers with textile mills and manufacturers. We’re just taking the first few steps, with the support of people like Jigs Juliano, GTEB caretaker. Continuous efforts are being exerted, and I understand the predicament of the fashion industry in the country and the frustrations of our senior designers.
What is so right about it?
The oversupply of talent.
What is a fashion victim?
There are different types of victims. Streetwear in Japan, for example, is all about self-expression. They become an important source of inspiration for trends. Some victims call attention by dressing in outrageous outfits, which is also fine because they are aware of why they dress the way they do. Others simply want to impress in a self-indulgent way. They get seriously caught up with brand names and logos. There are also victims who are simply clueless about fashion that their shopping decisions are based on what is featured in the latest In-Style magazine or they stick to the safe fashionable labels. The true victim in a negative sense is someone pretentious and over-exertive.
What is most deplorable among fashion designers today?
Sad to say – professionalism. Our council is also working to improve the professionalism of designers by imposing certain standards and stressing the importance of discipline and word of honor. Attitude and sincerity.
Name 10 women who are your best customers. How do you describe the Patrice Ramos-Diaz woman?
Can I name 50? I love my regular clients. A lot of them have become my friends. Some I love because they give me the freedom to design without imposing restrictions, and others because they appreciate my work. Others simply inspire me with their beauty. Some I’ve bonded with during fittings and have poured their heart out to me. Cindy Yang, Nancy Binay, Maritoni Tordesillas, Tessa Valdes, Sandy Romualdez, Leica Carpo, Maribel Eusebio, Gov. Imelda Dimaporo, Menchu Concepcion, Dra Gamillas, Judy Uy, Ria Almendral, Cynthia Cortes, Cay Araneta, Maite Araneta, G Toengi, Pinky Webb, Angel Jacob….I can go on and on. My muse is someone who has an appreciation for easy, effortless style. To me, good fashion is easy, makes you feel attractive, happy, comfortable.
What do you do to de-stress?
I started boxing just recently. Sometimes I swim at night. I used to have a weekly massage but I haven’t done that lately.
How do you picture yourself 20 years from now?
Still designing clothes. Hopefully taking more vacations – traveling with my family. More leisure time. Regular spa or beauty salon visits. Shopping. Sports (golf or squash, which I really enjoy). I’d like to have a farm or a beach house to get away from the stresses of urban living. Just like Tom Ford – a stylish looking farm with black trucks and horses… gosh, dream on! I’d like to be involved in meaningful projects too, such as Bantay Bata or Bantay Usok or maybe something else connected with fashion.
What are your favorite fashion shopping places?
In Bangkok – Chatuchak market. In Hong Kong – IT, or Causeway Bay. In London – Portobello Market, Pineal Eye, or Harvey Nichols – not for shopping but for research. I can’t afford anything in this store but I can stay there all day looking at designer pieces. In Shanghai – Xin Tian Di or the Yu Yuan Market. In New York – I love the designer stores in SoHo but only when on sale. Of course, Collete in Paris. I also love bookstores and CD stores anywhere I go. Here in Manila, I like Mphosis. Sometimes I order clothes from fellow designers like Vic Barba, Randy Ortiz, Rajo Laurel, and others.
If they could give Patrice Ramos Diaz a title, what would it be?
I’m not into titles. I’d rather have a label or my own line of RTW. I am not the product, I’m just the designer. I’m actually uncomfortable with interviews, especially on TV.
What books are you reading right now?
Sophie’s World, Rich Dad Poor Dad, and The Good Son.
What is the biggest satisfaction you get from fashion designing?
The friends I gain. And the feeling of making people feel good and beautiful.
Your advice to aspiring fashion designers.
Grab opportunities, work hard, love and value your work, stay humble, don’t complain, be open to learning, innovate – look beyond what exists, have the courage to break the norm, have a vision and pursue it with passion, keep your eyes open – absorb any visual stimulants, do your research, and don’t be discouraged by criticism.
Your advice to fashionistas.
Live on!!! Check out the latest Yohji collection for Adidas. And also that of Tom Ford for Gucci.