I had an incredibly hectic stay in Italy a few weeks ago. The day I arrived in Florence, I caught the last day of the 48Ú Gift Mart at Fortezza da Basso. The exhibit consisted mostly of Christmas items but I was able to find Moroccan accessories. It was strange though that even before the fair ended, half of the stalls were already gone and most were already packing up way before closing time. How unprofessional! I wasn’t so impressed. Two days later, I came across precious stones in Vicenza.
Then the next day, I saw a few leather accessories – from belts to wallets, money clips, and other knickknacks in exotic leather from Florence. The next day, I took the train to Milan for MIPEL, an exhibit of finished leather goods. I only had a day to go through the entire fair as I was supposed to leave the next day for Manila. I was in a panic. There were so many things to see but I had so little time. It was just my luck that after rushing through the whole exhibit, I went to the train station only to find out that the trains were on strike. I couldn’t go back to Florence to catch my flight. It was a nightmare! I couldn’t get a hotel room to spend the night since the entire city was packed. There were several fairs ongoing simultaneously. I was lucky that the customer service people were nice enough to lend me a directory and their telephone. After many tries, I finally found a room. I went to my hotel with no idea of what was in store for me. You don’t want to know what it was! The room had all the traces of its former occupants. There were coffee stains on the bedside table, hair all over the toilet floor and the amenities were not replaced! No way was I going to spend the night there! Fortunately, there was another room available. It was not bad but I will never set foot in that hotel again. And it’s supposed to be a four-star hotel!
I was stuck in Florence for a few days. Fashion week had started, fairs were ongoing and flights were full! So, I decided to stay longer for the Moda Pelle by Pitti Immagine. It was the seventh edition of the leather industry’s preview event of collections featuring leather, textiles, accessories and materials. It is all about the industry’s research and innovations in the creation of footwear, accessories, clothing and design collections. It dictates the trend and style for the coming season. It serves as a reference point for the leather industry. Leather is fundamental to contemporary fashion. It’s amazing how leather is treated now. Now, anything is possible. They can make it look like lace through laser cutting, as soft as silk, burnt, distressed and finished in antique. The event was also held at the Fortezza da Basso. Through images, sounds and materials, it presented the outcome of the studies that define the trend for the 2003/2004 Autumn-Winter seasons.
So what do we look forward to? Again animalism is alive and roaring. The event highlighted man’s concern for the animal kingdom. Sensations, colors and images linked with our childhood like the teddy bear with its curly, compact fur, smooth and velvety surface were some of the themes. Materials were treated to create a used, aged and worn look in dusty tones that recall the past. They came in baby pastels, pale beiges, butter and chalk. Childish ornaments like accessories shaped like animals in a child’s drawing were also added.
Another trend was to embrace the traditional and the luxurious. Riding accessories in the tradition of master saddlers, the South American gaucho traditions, high society, elegance and beauty were inspirations. Sporty leather was enriched with fine finishes in dark, elegant and classic colors.
Other future looks were visible and raised stitching, macro details in buckles and studs, raincoats and overcoats, capes, high boots and short boots, caps and hats, leather patches on knits and wovens all in shades of the autumn forest, browns, warm dark colors, cognac, burl, Bordeaux and olive green.
Also look forward to extreme creativity. Primitive yet avant-garde. Punk yet romantic. Wild yet charming. It’s all about the extreme. Think materials in every type of reptile, furs with razor cut-like hair, monkey fur, leather that seems like paper to the touch, knitted leathers and furs and patchworks of different materials. Watch out for bomber jackets, blouson blouses, parkas, zipped jackets, overalls and work uniforms, biker boots and jackets, ponchos, cowboy hats, unusual volumes and drapings and multiple layers and pleats in neutrals, animal hues, red, orange, warm and burnished tones, aged gold and silver and metallic colors.
Then, dare to be different. It’s about the unique, the extraordinary and living on the edge – totally eccentric. Exotic hides like ostrich, crocodile, hippopotamus, elephant and unusual skins like stingray, angler, perchis, gurnard and gourami set the trend.
The materials are treated with beads, sequins, crystals, raised prints, patchworks and unconventional combinations, floral open work patterns and lace effects from openwork and punching. These new innovations will be seen on evening shoes and sandals, jewel handbags, stoles, boots, costume jewellery in dramatic colors, metallic red, glamorous brights, shiny black, turquoise, spotted cat colors, gold, silver and acid green.
There is a strange revolution brewing in the fashion industry right now. Despite the difficult times, creativity is flourishing. Fashion is fresh again. Excitement is back. Personalization and customization are taken to new extremes. Fashion is bringing about an eclectic array of contrasts – vintage paired with the contemporary, traditional fabrics combined with technical textiles, the handmade with the industrial, the understated and the decaden; mixing vivid colors with darks, matte with shiny and solid basics with decorative fabrics. With creativity and originality back we can have fun again with fashion. Remember: Never take fashion too seriously. Be yourself. Be happy and have fun!