Trend Alert: Now it's rustic folkloric, sexy gothic or rock chic!
August 22, 2002 | 12:00am
In the middle of the summer heat, fashion is already thinking of the cool nights of the next season. If you ask me, the industry is moving way too fast. Just when you’re starting to enjoy the outfits you bought for the summer, they’re already passé. Stores are already carrying the next season’s collections. How you can think of buying a leather jacket or a cashmere sweater during summer is beyond me. I want to buy things when I need them, not when the market dictates. It’s partly our fault as consumers. It is true that we have become more and more demanding. When we want things, we want them right now. We don’t want to wait. Mobility and technology have changed our lives. Every day, we experience the multitude of effects that technology has wrought on our daily activities. We want a faster and more efficient world. And fashion has answered this call. But I think it is moving way too fast. I want time to enjoy my goodies!
The mood for the moment is still for individualism. It is still about following a trend and personalizing it. After the tragic events of September 11, optimism is back in the catwalks. A sense of rebirth and rejuvenation was present in the recent shows. Designers went back to their roots and the familiar. They focused on creating their own distinct style. In the aftermath of the September 11 tragedy, many have re-evaluated their priorities and given emphasis to what’s essential in life.
There’s a revival of handmade looks, from youthful embroideries to patchworks, smock treatments and decorative appliqués, which remind us of our childhood. There’s an emphasis on hand knits as well. The trend is focused on the handcrafted and the traditional. The return to traditional crafts promotes a feeling of comfort and safety in these uncertain times. Oscar de la Renta, Anna Sui, Marni, John Galliano, Hamish Morrow, Christian Dior, Luella, Balenciaga, Hussein Chalayan, Antonio Marras and Issey Miyake have gone back to these age-old crafts.
After the summer’s hippies, the rustic folk are coming next season. References vary from Inuit civilizations to Russia, Hungary and the Austrian Tyrol. Sexy rock chic meets Gothic. This hardcore sex appeal is achieved with a simple palette of black on black, layered skinny drainpipe pants under relaxed tunics and oversized knits topped with a flowing cape. Costume drama is also high on the list. Designers used flounces, fancy frills, furbelows, ribbons and bows for Rococo-inspired silhouettes. The focus is on appealing blouses with sleeve details, sexy skirts and slim pants. Or the Napoleonic swirling greatcoat, knee breeches and military embellishments for added costume appeal. The military influence is still strong. This time, it’s toy town braids or frogs. Think Sergeant Pepper.
Black continues to reign as the key color for the next season. It plays on shades, lights and textures. It’s about black on black. Textures are achieved through combining matte and glossy or light and heavy fabrics. Black will always be a wardrobe basic. Remember to mix opposing fabrics to make the look current. Now, the emphasis is more on the fabric rather than the color. Black ruled the runway collections of Chanel, Comme des Garçons, Ann Demeulemeester, Gucci, Givenchy, Narciso Rodriguez, YSL Rive Gauche, Costume National, Hermès, Alessandro Dell’ Aqua, BCBG, Junya Watanabe, Atsuro Tayama, Martine Sitbon, Mila Schön, Sonia Rykiel, Prada, Alexander McQueen, Martin Margiela, Ralph Lauren, Helmut Lang, Krizia, Lagerfeld Gallery, Calvin Klein, Chloè, Donna Karan, Giorgio Armani, Dirk Bikkembergs, Céline, Hussein Chalayan and Alberta Ferretti. White is carried over to the next season. It is also focused on texture. The white palette of the season ranges from arctic white to softer shades of ivory and cream. Make the look distinct with black or gold detailing. It is the key to sharp pantsuits and contemporary outerwear. Silhouettes for coats are clean and lean with kimono or bathrobe style or military elements. YSL Rive Gauche, Ann Demeulemeester, Jil Sander, Chanel, Helmut Lang, Costume National, Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti, Fendi, GFF Gianfranco Ferré and Louis Vuitton used this palette. Luxury is back in fashion with white cool again! Deep wine reds add a splash of color to the dominant black season. The rich palette of intense shades was used in velvet, velour, lustrous satin, leather and fur. Again, the play of opposing fabric mixes is key. Play with glossy-and-matte combination for a tone-on tone effect. Burgundy and Bordeaux are great for tailored cuts and party wear as shown at Donna Karan, YSL Rive Gauche, Christian Lacroix, Gianfranco Ferré, Oscar de la Renta, Jil Sander, Alexander McQueen, Chloé, Versace, Anna Molinari, Missoni and Alberta Ferretti. Forget-me-not blue, Yves Klein blue, ultramarine, sapphire, deep ink and intense midnight blue are also key hues of the next season. Deep ink or midnight blue is the new alternative to black for evening. Treat the mix like you would the wine color palette. They work best in rich velvet, lustrous satin, lightweight sheer fabrics and plush fur as featured in YSL Rive Gauche, Chanel, Donna Karan, BCBG, Alessandro Dell’ Aqua, Cacharel, Anna Molinari and Versus. This time, design duo Viktor and Rolf showed next season’s key bright, Yves Klein blue in their entire collection. Thanks to Miuccia Prada’s successful summer collection featuring gold brocade, the gold rush is still hip next season. Subtle and understated gold is for next season. The perfect mix of minimal cuts with elaborate materials is the key statement. Gold shades from plissé gazar in spun-white gold were at Marc Jacobs, so were subtle lamé at Veronique Branquinho, low-lustre brocade tuxedo at Viktor & Rolf, and antique tone at Givenchy. Even the master of understatement, Helmut Lang, used gold for his simple and sexy new look. This reiterates that luxury is back in style. Go for the glitz or add a subtle touch with gold leather boots, belt or bag for accent. Neutrals and browns also make a strong statement. But whatever the color this coming season, it’s all about the tactile factor. Velvet, corduroy, silk, shearling, satin in every weight and wale are significant fabrics. It’s all about the soft touch. Velvets and cords from outerwear to tailored suits, day dresses and evening wear are the strongest fabric statements. It feels perfect for the mood of the moment, the mix of luxury together with comfort.
Leather was all over the runways. For the season, designers used natural hide and pelt colors with rich browns and tans, pale honey and soft winter whites. The look is again about luxury. Cutworks, patchworks, burnished and distressed, add indulgence to super-fine skins. Outerwear is focused on easy and oversized silhouettes or long, lean and military cuts. Gucci, Martin Margiela, John Galliano, Prada, Oscar de la Renta, Sportsmax, Alexander McQueen, Givenchy, Burberry Prorsum, Roberto Cavalli, Céline, Alessandro Dell’ Aqua, Etro, Fendi, Gianfranco Ferré, Vivienne Westwood, Ann Demeulemeester, Dirk Bikkembergs, Bally, Balenciaga, Jean Paul Gaultier, Genny, Iceberg, Christain Lacroix, Lanvin, Max Mara, Mila Schön, Lawrence Steele, Emanuel Ungaro, Trussardi, Moschino, Sonia Rykiel and Jil Sander created luxurious leathers.
Today’s woman is more confident and wants to play with her identity. Mixing – what goes with what – has become so extreme. The next season is about a multi-facetted woman. Again, there are looks to suit every woman’s desire. Whether it’s rustic folkloric feast, sexy gothic or rock chic – make the style your own!
Here are the window displays in Florence, Italy in the middle of the summer heat! The pressure is on to always be current. But why the rush? I still want to enjoy my goodies from summer!
BrandSpace Articles
<
>
