To some it means Make-up Art Cosmetics, the Canadian line of professional products created by Frank Toskan for his fellow makeup artists. To others, it’s a phenomenon that started in the Eighties with matte red lipstick–specifically Russian Red, the fire-engine shade that Madonna adored and wore throughout her "Blonde Ambition" world tour. To Filipinos, though, the arrival of M.A.C. means not only great makeup but much-needed relief for those living with HIV and AIDS.
Makeup with a conscience?
Yes, through local distributor Rustan’s, M.A.C. recently made a dramatic entrance in Manila with "Viva Glam," an event that caused a ruckus at one wing of the spanking-new RCBC Plaza, with its towering ceilings and gleaming chrome and marble. Models glided up and down a narrow catwalk, but it wasn’t your typical fashion show.
For one thing, guests were greeted at the door by a pack of gilded drag queens, who pinned red AIDS ribbons to their chests. Makeup artist Patrick Rosas, collaborating for the night and clad in a "M.A.C. Pro" T-shirt, watched from the wings as members of his team applied body paint to voguing models’ bellies and backs.
All the black leather and glitter remind you of how M.A.C. has always stood apart from other brands. What other makeup company would hire RuPaul or k.d. lang as image models? Or create a lipstick, Viva Glam, to raise money for those with AIDS? Not to mention M.A.C. has always made waves with fashion mavericks. After Madonna popularized Russian Red, Sharon Stone adopted Viva Glam as her favorite lipstick, while supermodel Linda Evangelista extolled the virtues of Spice, making the pink-brown lip pencil an instant and perennial hit.
For another, all the models were wearing one color: plum (or variations thereof, like plum-brown or plum-red), a tribute to the color of Viva Glam III lipstick. The designers of these gorgeous gowns aren’t up-and-comers looking for exposure, but megastars in the fashion world: from Oscar de la Renta and Richard Tyler to Vivienne Westwood and Carolina Herrera. The dancers and singers book-ending the ramp show were outfitted in leather bondage gear and tons of eye glitter.
"Viva Glam is not just about makeup, but art and fashion as well," says Sandra Main, M.A.C.’s senior director for Asia-Pacific. "We have 27 of these outfits, which were donated by the designers for the M.A.C. AIDS fund, and the outfits actually go on tour around the world to raise awareness for our M.A.C. AIDS fund and raise money to donate to organizations around the world."
And the show itself? Bass-booming house music accompanied the models as they paraded a bewildering array of haute couture and wild makeup: slashes of color across local and foreign faces, punk hairdos and a very glam look. "The theme is not ‘pretty, pretty’ but edgy and that is so M.A.C.," notes M.A.C. Pro Team senior artist Celeste Sng. "It’s glamour and street combined."
Meanwhile, celebrity host Joey Mead egged the crowd on, while at the end of the night, Rico Tantoco of Rustan’s presented the Reachout Foundation (which cares for AIDS patients) with a P100,000 check. Whoever said that fashion and beauty had to be superficial?
M.A.C.’s philosophy has always veered a little bit off the straight runway. Originally created for professional makeup artists by Frank Toskan and the late Frank Angelo in 1984, the M.A.C. line was first available only in North America and London. According to Main, M.A.C. was never out to cater to the mainstream, even though the brand was acquired by makeup conglomerate Estée Lauder in 1995. "It wasn’t a deliberate move at all," she says of M.A.C.’s mass appeal. "In fact, whenever we launch a particular market, our first customers are always professionals. Whatever we develop–in terms of product lineup, whether it’s tools, tool belts or makeup kits, things like that–we always have the professionals in mind first.
"We test-pilot in the backstage collections or fashion shows we do. Just this Fall, we did over 80 collections in London, Paris, Milan, Tokyo and New York with all the top designers." Main says the company uses the shows to test the products they’re working on. If the makeup artists like it, they know it’s good enough to launch into retail.
M.A.C. may be on the cutting edge of the makeup industry, but its approach is decidedly democratic. Asked who M.A.C. will appeal to, Main recites the company epigram: "All races, all ages and all sexes."
Bringing M.A.C. to Manila – a long-awaited launch, to be sure – has been a lot of fun, according to Main. "The people here in the Philippines are so helpful, the hospitality here is amazing, and the people are very, very talented so it’s been very easy for us."
Rustan’s paved the way for M.A.C.’s smooth entry into the Philippines this year. "We already have a very good long-standing relationship with Rustan’s," Main says, "so already they understand the company culture, they understand how we work and operate, and they’re very supportive in that sense. Plus, they’re the No. 1 retailer in the Philippines, so who else could you collaborate and market with than Rustan’s?"
Backstage, the mood was surprisingly calm. Large spaces were curtained off as dressing rooms: one for Joey Mead, two others for performers Hotlegs and Body Builders. M.A.C.’s artist training and development manager Celeste, who’s worked with models like Maggie Rizer and Audrey Marnay, and designers like Imitation of Christ, Luella Bartley and Catherine Malandrino, takes time out from gluing glitter onto models’ eyes to tell me what the upcoming makeup trends will be.
"For Spring, we’re basically going back to the basics," she says. "It will be clean makeup, like a subtle wash of color. In January, we’ll be launching Perverted Pearls, a collection that consists of a wash of sea colors, like pink, but the pinks have a gold or silver overtone, like when the sun hits the ocean.
"Towards mid-spring, we’ll be launching Peaceniks," she continues, "and I’m very excited about that. We’re bringing back the era of the ’70s, and the main collection revolves around hippie chic – that free-spirited, flower power, Hare Krishna kind of thing. The collection has a lot of peach shades. So for Spring, it will be very clean but pretty makeup," Celeste concludes.
So, all you M.A.C. addicts out there should know what to shop for when you visit the Glorietta store beside Rustan’s Makati. If you need help choosing from the hundreds of colors and textures available, don’t be afraid to ask the local staff – they were trained by a senior artist from M.A.C. New York and are qualified to give makeovers. And if, after all this, you’re still confused about what to get, pick up a tube of Viva Glam III. By this simple act you could be helping to save someone’s life.