• What do you need a suit for? Is it for work or for a party? Or, do you need it for work and dinner later? Is it for a job interview? Do you need to make a great impression? Are you looking for a fashionable one or do you need staying power? Be specific – It will be easier to find what you are looking for.
• Fabric is as important as cut. Remember: focus on your needs. Linen is perfect for an outdoor affair but not for a frequent flier. Wools are perfect. They are lightweight, durable and wearable all year-round. If you are looking for a heavy duty working suit, look for microfiber-wool combinations, especially any with stretch (usually around three percent, check the tag). They resist creasing, hold shape and allow freedom of movement.
• Get a second opinion. If you are unsure, listen to an expert. A tailor or a well-trained salesperson may give you handy advice. I know…you are already telling me that it is impossible to find this in Manila! Then the next alternative is to bring a friend who has dress sense and is brutally frank.
• Cost is not the only indicator of quality. With technology today, you do not have to invest your life savings to get a suit that flatters you. Surely, there will be one that will fit your budget. Of course, it still makes a big difference to know how a high-end suit feels and fits. If you have never tried one, do it now! I am not tempting you to take a loan. It will just provide a good benchmark on what to look for.
• Be well-equipped. Bring the shoes you will be wearing with the suit. If you also have accessories, try them on with the suit. Remember: you are building your wardrobe so don’t forget what you already have.
• Take your time. Fit as many suits as you want. It is the only way to know what suits you. Check yourself in all angles! Make sure you like what you see.
• How should it fit? This is the million-dollar question!
1. Neckline – The fit should be square with your neck. Make sure there is no extra space.
2. Shoulder – The shoulder seam should extend about half an inch past the shoulder. Your arms should be able to reach forward comfortably.
3. Body – The jacket should fit close without clinging. Try hugging yourself. Does it feel comfortable? Button up the jacket, raise your arms and bring them down. The jacket should fall down into place without being pulled down.
4. Sleeve – When your hands hang at the sides, the sleeves should hit just above the thumb.
5. Back vent – The vent should hang straight when you are standing. If it spreads open, the jacket is too tight. If it protrudes like a ducktail, it is too large. Never alter a jacket by taking in the back center seam. It will create a lump at the back. Take in the princess seams instead. They go down the back or side seams under the arms.
6. Skirt hem – A hem that hits the knee is the most versatile. It looks good with almost every jacket length at the same time it shows enough leg without being inappropriate. Rule of thumb: A skirt should extend more than two inches below the hem of a jacket.
7. Pants hem – If your trousers are wide, they should clear the floor in the back by a quarter-inch with shoes on. On the other hand, narrower trousers should touch the top of your heel if not longer.
• Perfectly suited. A perfect suit must work with your body. It is all about proportion – your proportion. Follow these tips to find the best style for you.
1. Small bust – Double-breasted styles enhance, while a shirt jacket with pockets over the breasts add a little extra padding.
2. Big bust – Go for a collarless V-neck jacket with contour seams. The V-neck draws the attention to the length of the body and the seams present a tailored look.
3. Petite figure – You will look best in a boxy, cropped jacket. Stay away from long jackets which will make you look smaller and shorter.
4. Hourglass shape – A single-breasted jacket with a moderate lapel and slightly nipped waist is what works for you. The lines should be simple. Opt for a length that is just below the hips.
5. Boyish figure – Try a belted jacket. A hem that flares slightly at the hips creates a smaller waist.
6. Ample hips – The perfect cover up is a fingertip-length (put your hands on your sides and base the length on your fingertips), subtly tucked jacket with just enough coverage. Another option is a car-coat style with a matching sheath. It will give you a long lean line.
When to wear it
1. At work – Stick to simple lines. The classic suit is the most versatile. A skirt with a collarless jacket has a clean, uncomplicated look. You cannot go wrong with solid colors. Start with basic colors like black, camel, navy, gray and olive. These can be easily mixed-matched. Remember: You have to give the impression of professionalism, efficiency and good taste.
2. Hot date – Try something fitted and a bit trendy. This season, try a tailored biker jacket with a sexy skirt. Also, anything in denim.
3. Dinner – What you want is the feeling of elegance and luxury. Fabrics like silk and crepe will give you that.
4. Day wedding – Light and pastel colors work best. A feminine suit with softer details like bracelet sleeves, Peter Pan collars make the suit dressier. The jacket works as a cover up during the ceremony. Then remove it during the party and reveal a fun and flirtatious get up.
5. Weekend – Comfortable and relaxed are key. Linen, denim and cotton blends give a dressed-down look. So does a top and bottom that are not perfectly matched. A suit in a sportier style will work for casual days and weekend getaways.
6. Day-to-night – A classic suit works wonders. It will take you from work to cocktails with just a change in accessories and it won’t look dated after a few seasons. Swap pumps with sexy mules or sandals, leather satchel with an embroidered bag or clutch, cotton shirt with beaded or metallic shell and studs with dangling earrings. The last touch is a change in makeup from dark lips to shimmery eyes and flushed cheeks. Another alternative is a suit with a subtle sheen. Look for a matted silk instead of more shiny fabric like satin. Sheen is now acceptable in daywear. Gone are the days when silk was only worn for dressy occasions.
7. Travel – A black pantsuit with a high Lycra content or the new techno fabrics is your best friend. Black is versatile to dress up or down, at the same time they can be worn as separates to extend your wardrobe. While the fabric retains its shape and does not wrinkle.
• Details – What you add on a suit will transform the look. It is also an expression of your personality. Here are a few must-haves to dress up your suit.
1. Men’s white fitted shirt
2. Basic Tee
3. Ribbed sweater
4. Tuxedo top
5. Peasant blouse
6. High-neck top with blouson waist
7. Corset top
8. Shell with a draped or asymmetrical neckline
9. Shift dress
10. Two-toned heels
11. Sexy sandals
12. High heeled pumps
13. Lipstick-red bag
14. Clutch bag
15. Python, lizard or ostrich skinned bag
16. Chain belt
17. Hip belt
18. Cummerbund
19. Wide belt
20. Pins, lots of them faux or real it doesn’t matter…so long as you can get away with it!
21. Pearls – earrings and necklace
22.Diamond studs…or cubic zirconia…who’s telling?
23. Studs in your birthstone or any colored stone that fits your mood
24. Scarves
Now, it is not as hard as it seems. Even an old suit can learn new tricks.