Mulberry labor of sibling love
When my three sons were mere toddlers, it was a policy to make them eat regular and varied food; ignoring the children’s menu when we would dine out. The reasoning then was to get them to appreciate food at an early age and make the issue of “What happens when the restaurant does not have a children’s menu?” disappear.
Now young adults (my youngest, Luca, turns 18 this year), it has meant countless years of enjoying shared meals and new food discoveries with them. I can only surmise that their respective lifetimes of food appreciation will come in handy as they roll up their shirtsleeves, and help out their mother in her newest foray in the food industry — the newly opened diner the Mulberry Door at 8 Forbestown Center, Burgos Circle, BGC. It’s situated right across the street from Tipsy Pig.
From the choosing of the name, suggesting the menu, lending a helping hand in the decor and running of the place, to inviting the first wave of patrons during the soft opening and setting up the music and ambience of the diner, my ex-wife has been more than proud to share that in varying degrees, my three boys have all played major roles. From her initial exposure via catering (nawwTy’s Kitchen) and then being one of the prime organizers of The Gourmand Market, Trish has always relied on the boys to lend the proverbial helping hand — my eldest, Quintin, has even done the promotional videos for the Market while Matteo, enrolled in Enderun, along with friends, operated one of the Market’s food stalls.
Given their mother’s culinary provenance, Mulberry Door is a luxe comfort food establishment. Occupying a trim 70 sq. m., it has tables complemented by a couple of al fresco options. While these are dishes my boys have enjoyed at home through the years, they’re now offered as regular mid-priced fare in a setting that while not stuffy, formal fine-dining, is still refined via the ambience, decor and high quality of ingredients and food preparation.
One little conceit of the eatery is that there are menu items named after my three boys. Quintin has an apple and chorizo salpicao re-christened Apple and Q-Rizo. As for Matteo, the Lamb- Burger is named in his honor. Served in a Dutch crust and smothered with Emmental and mozzarella cheeses, the lamb patty is garnished with lettuce and alfalfa sprouts with taro shoestring chips on the side. As for Luca, he gets a cocktail drink thanks to his love of mangoes (and alcohol?), the Mango Elixir.
To be found in the for-now limited menu are some of the dishes nawwTy has gained a loyal following for. There’s the grilled salmon with almond cream sauce served with mashed potatoes, cherry tomatoes and asparagus spears; and the notorious Crabfat Paella, with chicharon crumbles. Listed among the sidings is the olive oil garlic red rice, a healthy option amidst the sinfully indulgent main courses. Two of my favorites among the desserts are the Sticky Toffee Cake, and the popular twist on the traditional leche flan — the Strawberry Basil Flan.
It’s early days for the eatery, but my boys attest to the favorable reactions they’ve been getting from the patrons. It’s familiar dishes given little tweaks and flourishes that while “serving” nostalgia, also awaken the taste buds with something fresh or unexpected. Given the hyper-active participation all three boys have been taking in jump-starting the establishment, I can only play supportive father and enjoin you all to knock on, and enter, the Mulberry Door — a veritable (emphasis on “-table”) feast awaits, and don’t be surprised if any one of my boys is there to usher you in.
