Amo Roma!
Time and again, we all need to take a trip to somewhere magical in order to recharge and seek new inspiration. For me, the trip to look forward to for 2012 was Rome. Last December, my husband and I took our children to the ancient land — an opportunity to bond and to experience the Christmas season in the Eternal City.
In Rome, as far as location is concerned, it doesn’t get any better than the Albergo del Senato (check out www.albergodelsenato.it). Well-rated restaurants, cafes, shops and mini stops are within five minutes from the hotel. The Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, Colosseum, Forum and Palantine Hill are all within walking distance. Best of all, the historical Pantheon is about 35 steps (30 seconds!) away from Albergo del Senato’s front door. Noel and I took a room that overlooked the beautiful structure and it was an absolute joy to wake up to this magnificent view every morning.
The rooms at the Albergo del Senato are relatively small. However, the 19th-century charm of the hotel and its vaulted ceilings more than make up for the lack in space. The hotel (designed by Italian architect Gaelano Koch) is a perfect place to people-watch. From my window, I was able to witness how the piazza slowly came to life (by 7 a.m., the man selling souvenirs starts to set up in front of the Pantheon steps while the street sweepers finish their morning tasks).
In the mornings, one is greeted by the amiable receptionist Mauro and would look forward to a sumptuous Continental breakfast (served by our favorite food attendant Serena!) that would arm the staunchest adventurist with enough energy for the tours and the shopping that are certain to follow.
Months before our trip, I had taken time out to research on the best tour guide companies possible and had zeroed in on Bruno Tours — an award-winning outfit that specializes in private tours. Bruno Tours (check out www.brunotours.com) had a very comprehensive list of excursion choices (a list ranging from the standard Ancient Rome-Vatican tours to food and wine adventures in the secret gastronomic havens in the outskirts of Rome). Bruno Tours also had extensive experience dealing with children and teens (a must for me who is a parent of children with the attention span of fruit flies).
A tour guide can make or break a vacation experience and we were indeed fortunate to have Bruno himself as our sherpa. The first day, we explored the sights near our hotel as we walked by the Spanish Steps, tossed coins at the Trevi Fountain, visited various churches, and paid homage to the remains of Raphael in the Pantheon. Bruno made sure to bring us to some interesting shops and eateries as well. One particularly lovely store was the perfumery of Laura Tonatto — a “nose†that makes special commissioned perfumes for the likes of England’s Queen Elizabeth II and movie star George Clooney. Tonatto paired various scents with selected movies (Cleopatra, Belle du Jour, Chocolat and La Dolce Vita to name a few) in order to make a visitor identify with the corresponding fragrance more.
Another delightful find was the Gelateria Artigianale Corona at Largo Arenula. This gelato shop has been owned by a Sicilian family for several generations. Bruno struck up a conversation with the owner and after a few minutes of banter, the proprietor allowed me to enter the backroom where the ice cream was made.
The next day, Bruno brought us to the Vatican where the wealth and splendor of the Roman Catholic Church were on display. December days in Italy are incredibly short (it is still quite dark at 7 a.m. and by 4:30 p.m., the sun starts to set) and by the time we exited St. Peter’s Basilica, the exterior lights were already illuminating the surrounding structures. A few meters in front of the square, right before Caligula’s Obelisk was a temporary stage that featured a musical group playing modern jazz tunes. The lazy musings of what sounded like Kenny G’s Noel (yes, I kid you not!) against the great structures of the Vatican made for an unusual but interesting experience.
On the third day, Bruno showed us the Colosseum, Palantine Hill, the Forum and the Senate, which was to me the most awe-inspiring of all the excursions we had been to. Bruno’s use of an iPad as an audio-visual tool to further illustrate the importance of each site made for a more educational tour.
Walking along Palantine Hill, Bruno introduced us to various herbs that we would find by the pathway. He would pick up a few sprigs of mint, leaves of thyme and basil and make us chew on them. If Palantine Hill and the Forum did not just have such historically significant provenance, they would have found another use as beautiful picnic sites. My son Jaime who is of the age when one is rarely impressed by anything was in heaven.
Eating in Rome is another delight not to be missed and if one is booked at the heart of the city, one will discover that the most hearty restaurants are only a few blocks away. The streets are filled with criers trawling for customers and one cannot be sure if their “best pizza-pasta in town†claim have any basis so allow me to recommend a few sedate places that I have been to and enjoyed. Restaurant Agrippa al Pantheon for instance is located at the Piazza della Rotunda (a five-minute walk from the hotel) and serves excellent authentic pizza and pasta at very reasonable prices (considering this is Europe, the prices would be comparable to our local Italianni’s restaurant).
Another must-eat destination would be the Antonio al Pantheon (a two-minute walk from the hotel), a homey, casual dining eatery, which serves excellent pasta and meat dishes. When at the Antonio al Pantheon, make sure to say hello to the charming Filipinas, cook Sandra (from Capiz) and sisters Melly and Lody (from Pampanga) who work as food attendants. I will be the first to admit that these three ladies spoiled me and my family rotten. Antonio al Pantheon is best known for the black truffle pasta and it serves an excellent spaghetti Bolognese.
The rest of the days were devoted to shopping. If you like Italian brands then you will truly appreciate the significantly reduced prices that are about 30 percent cheaper than the same brand price tags in Manila. Tourists will also appreciate the additional price reductions that are given through VAT tax rebates (about a further 11 percent off your already lowered charge).
It is impossible not to fall in love with Rome and one does not need a coin tossed in the Trevi Fountain as incentive to come back again. In Rome, one is continuously besieged by the historical significance and staggering exquisiteness of the area as well as the passion and enthusiasm of the Italian people. Young and old travelers alike will find something meaningful in the Eternal City that will surely make for great memories for years to come. A trip to Rome is a pilgrimage to cultural civilization, an affirmation of all that is beautiful and a glimpse of how perhaps life should be lived.
Amo Roma! Until we meet again! Ciao!
(Visit www.uptowndowntownsite.blogspot.com for more articles.)
Bruno supplied me with a list of cafes and restaurants that are considered favorites among tourists and locals alike. The must-go-to spots are the following:
PIZZERIAS:
Bir a Fud — Known for its thick crust pizza and home-brewed beer. Via Benedetta 23, 06 589 4016, Trastevere
La Gatta Mangiana — Its classic thin-crusted Roman pizza and delightful toppings (pumpkin and creamy Gorgonzola are many patrons’ favorites!) are a must! Via Federico Ozanam 30, 06 534 6702, Monteverde
GELATO SHOPS:
Gelateria del Teatro — This shop is known for its experimental flavors such as chocolate with red wine. Via di San Simone 70, Piazza Navona
Gelateria de Gracchi — Rich artisanal gelato. This shop boasts the best pistachio gelato in town. Via de Gnacchi, 272, Prati
Il Gelato de Claudio Torce — Ever tried celery or taleggio cheese gelato? Its zabalone gelato is also great! Viale Aventino 59, Colosso, Piazza Monte D’Oro 91/92, Spanish Steps
COFFEE SHOPS:
Sant Eustachop — Every tourist guide book will tout this shop as being the most famous in Rome. Its Gran Caffe is a favorite. Piazza Sant Eustachio 82, Pantheon
Tazza D’Oro — A favorite among locals and tourists alike. Known for its cappuccino. Via degli Orfani, 84, Pantheon
RESTAURANTS:
Antonio Al Pantheon — A family business since 1934, the restaurant is known for its black truffles. The Filipina food attendants and cook will make you feel at home! Via dei Pastini, 06 6790798
Agrippa al Pantheon — Soft jazz music and delicious food is what this restaurant has. Try its Pasta alla Amatriciana! Piazza de la Rotunda 75
Armando al Pantheon — Famous for its Riso venere agli scampi and Calamari attufati. Salta del Crescenzi, 31, 06 6880 3034, Pantheon
Da Pancrazio — This restaurant is known for its Burrata, Ox tail meatballs and Ox tail sauce rigatoni. Via del Monte Testaccio, 06 574 4194, Testaccio
