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Say it with 'flour-s' | Philstar.com
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Say it with 'flour-s'

WRY BREAD - Philip Cu-Unjieng - The Philippine Star

Bonifacio Global City continues to be the home of new, exciting eateries; and my three boys are party to this culinary journey of discovery. When excellent word of mouth is the reason for me hearing about new restaurants, we’re compelled to try them out pronto. Foodies like Malu Gamboa and Rajo Laurel were among the ones who mentioned Wildflour, and I have to admit, at first, I thought Wild Flower, and had visions of eclectic Chinese dishes. Well, I couldn’t be more wrong, as inspired by bastions of culinary adventure such as Thomas Keller’s Bouchon in the Santa Monica area in Los Angeles, Wildflour is all-day fare, comfort food with a rustic French slant, and prides itself on the artisanal bread-making that occurs daily on the premises.

Operating hours are from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m., with the savory side of the menu created by Walter Manzke (who has worked with Alain Ducasse in Monte Carlo, and Patina in LA), with the pastry and bread side handled by Walter’s wife, chef Margarita, and her sister, Le Cordon Bleu London graduate Ana de Ocampo. In fact, with the Manzkes now back in the States, it’s Ana managing operations. At anytime of the day, enjoy the baguettes, ciabatta and brioches that are produced without preservatives. Their wonderful tarte flambes, are their version of thin crust, flaky pizza — topped with bacon, gruyere and caramelized onions; or brie, arugula, apple and caramelized onions. The croque madame is another all-day favorite, as is its steak and frites, a skirt steak served with Bearnaise sauce. The bone marrow is served with mango salsa, and the baked escargot is a fluffy pastry top with the escargot swimming in its sauce in the bottom. And leave room for dessert, as the Yuzu cheesecake is something altogether different, a flan-like consistency, topped by the tartness of Yuzu. The peanut butter banana cream pie is my recommended must-try, as is the chocolate pot de creme and the pastel de tres leches — a super rich concoction of chiffon soaked in three kinds of milk, topped with dulce de leche. My boys loved the tarte, the escargot and the steak!

One block away is Las Flores, a tapas bar and resto that has already enjoyed well-deserved coverage. Founded by friends, both Spanish and Filipino, Las Flores has fast become the favorite pitstop of the young, party crowd. On the night I had dinner, the aforementioned Rajo, a lady named Solenn, Bianca Valerio, Norman Luna and Kitty Jacinto were enjoying the “floral” ambiance. I especially liked the risotto de legumbres, the tuna escabeche (served in a Mason jar), the bottifara (a sausage dish), and for dessert, the deconstructed berries cheesecake — served in a martini glass, you get the berries, the cheesecake and the graham crust as three separate layers — highly original! I know my carnivore, Luca, may have produced a pout, as there aren’t any hearty meat dishes on the menu; but I hear the constantly evolving menu may have some very soon.

I don’t drink, as I’m allergic to alcohol, but my friends vow that thanks to a Spanish mixologist who flew in from Hong Kong, the cocktails and drinks are to-die-for at Las Flores. So, that’s two newly-opened, unassuming eateries, both possessing a floral motif — although one in a misspelled manner! Wildflour (02-856-7600) can be found at the spanking new Net Lima, while Las Flores (02-552-2815) is at One McKinley. Enjoy!

Fantasy, folly-tics and unfamily (iar) territory

The three novels today are like a mixed bag of goodies and treats! O’Malley’s The Rook is the X-Men expanded to agency status, out to protect Great Britain as shadow to MI5. Taft 2012 may be Heller’s first novel, but it may be one of the best political satires of the year. And if you want to meet the family from conceptual and alternative hell, Kevin Wilson’s The Family Fang is up to the task.

The Rook — Daniel O’Malley (Available at National Book Store). Think graphic novel come to life as a regular novel, and then think of X-Men multiplied by an inordinate number such that a shadow agency to MI5 exists, dealing with the unnatural and supernatural. Our heroine, Myfanwy Thomas, awakes with letter in hand, explaining who she is, that she is now occupying a new body. The letter goes on with hints of infiltration of the agency, and of a conspiracy with evil forces seeking to dismantle the agency. Thomas holds a special position of power within the agency, as a Rook. Naturally, there are pawns, bishops, and knights, given the chess metaphor. Full of high adventure, mystery, superpowers on display, and creatures we would never want to meet, The Rook is a special one for all lovers of fantasy!

Taft 2012 — Jason Heller (Available at National Book Store). A highly entertaining political satire that’s especially timely given it’s an American election year, this debut novel works on the premise that somehow, William Howard Taft (Governor-General here in the Philippines) comes back to life in 2011. The “why” and “how” doesn’t really matter, what drives this novel is how this fish-out-of-water story develops, and how scathing and pithy commentary is achieved via the popularity the 100-year hibernating ex-President enjoys, how he strikes a chord with the electorate today. Coming from an era when it was simpler to be a proud American, the novel is punctuated by passages of media and public opinion, i.e. Tweets and blogs. A charmer that deserves to be read by all who like their politics with humor!

The Family Fang — Kevin Wilson (Available at National Book Store). Here’s a novel that’s both brainy/funny, and compassionate as well. Caleb and Camille Fang are performance artists, which means dysfunctional, super-weirdness for their children Annie and Buster, who are drafted as accomplices in their “works of Art.” Even if they’re now grown up, Annie an actress on the cusp, and Buster a writer with no roots; the shadow of their childhood and parents looms large. A strange wild goose chase ensues when the police think Caleb and Camille have been murdered, while the kids insist it’s just their latest performance. The dynamics of the relationships between all four family members and the hilarious flashbacks to the performances of the Family Fang through the years make for a diverting novel with “heart.”

ALAIN DUCASSE

FAMILY FANG

KEVIN WILSON

LAS FLORES

MDASH

NATIONAL BOOK STORE

NOVEL

WILDFLOUR

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