Designer Watch: Oliver Tolentino, secret designer no more

Everyone has a favorite fashion designer. Celebrities and famous personalities are always asked whose creations they are wearing. Some names are familiar while others are slowly getting recognition. One of them is Oliver Tolentino who recently did the country proud when he won in the Bali Fashion Week Festival and was recognized in the United States for his work as a fashion designer.

In a recent interview with Tolentino in his shop in Makati, he opened up about his experiences in Bali, dressing up a former First Lady and seeing his dress worn in the US red carpet.

Observing the US market

Oliver says that his work in the US started when he decided to travel and observe the market for possible opportunities.

“Four years ago, I traveled to see the market in the States. So I go back and forth. Then I did one wedding gown for a Filipino for her big wedding in the States. When others saw my design, they started becoming my clients,” Oliver says, adding, however, that others were hesitant at first.

“They were so afraid about closing deals with me since I’m based in the Philippines. For four years, I prove to them that I deliver on time, I give them clothes far more than what they expect,” he says.

It was during one of his travels to the US that he met his partner Andrew Caruthers, a businessman who has connections in Los Angeles and New York. Since then, Andrew has been advising him on his business.

His career in the US took a big turn when one of his clients from Accenture Consulting sponsored a trunk show for him.

“He has a beautiful pad in New York which is vacant. One time I made a barong Tagalog for him and he loved it. After that, he said: ‘Oliver I’m going to produce a trunk show for you in New York’,” Tolentino recalls.

The trunk show turned out to be a success and this paved way for another trunk show also in New York that took place last Nov. 7 and 8. Last Oct. 18, Oliver was awarded by the Chamber of Commerce in Los Angeles as outstanding fashion designer in the Philippines where he presented a 35-piece collection. He was also cited by Celebrity Chronicles, a Filipino organization in Glendale for his work.

Bali Fashion Week

While in New York, Oliver received a call from the people behind Philippine Fashion Week that he was chosen to represent the country for the Bali Fashion Week. Upon his arrival from New York, he immediately prepared for the show where he was asked to make a carnival outfit.

In Bali, Tolentino said that his carnival outfit drew a lot of attention not just from the media but also from some of the participating designers.

“When they saw my creation, they told me: ‘Oliver, how did you bring that huge eight-ft. wing to Bali? It’s huge’!” he happily recalls.

His carnival outfit won first prize and the other creations he presented during the grand finale were featured in various Indonesian newspapers the following day.

Imelda Marcos and Marjorie Bach...

It is not only the awards abroad that Oliver is celebrating in his career. He was also chosen to design the gown of former First Lady Imelda Marcos for her recent birthday. Imelda is one of the most glamorous fashion icons in the country. How did he find working with her?

“She’s very meticulous when it comes to gowns. Mrs. Marcos is an avid fan of Christian Espiritu and Joe Salazar. She keeps on looking for designers. One afternoon, her secretary called me and said: ‘Mrs. Marcos wants to meet up with you. She wants you to design the dress for her 79th birthday’,” he narrates.

 “I talked to her, presented sketches and she said: ‘Oliver these are the gowns other designers made for me during my years in the Palace and up to now. Can you make me a dress?’ I told her that I needed to get her measurements. She said: ‘Oliver, just get one of my gowns and get the pattern’,” he recalls.

“So I grabbed her dress and usual tunic and pants. After two weeks, I gave her the dress with no fitting. She tells me: ‘How did you make this dress? How come it fits so well? And I haven’t fitted one of your dresses’?”

Mrs. Marcos was so happy and pleased with his creations and has since been ordering clothes from him.

Another achievement for Oliver was when Marjorie Bach wore his cocktail dress to a red carpet event. Bach is the sister of former James Bond girl Barbara Bach (wife of the Beatles’ Ringgo Starr) and fiancée of Joe Walsh of the popular band The Eagles.

How did he meet Marjorie?

“It so happens that Andrew is a good friend of Marjorie and told him: ‘Maybe Oliver can bring some of his cocktail dresses so my stylist could choose what to wear in the red carpet.’ A lot of designers sent her cocktail dresses and finally she chose my dress and I was shocked. According to the stylist, I think she chose clothes from Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen and Dior. Mine is simple and hand-beaded cocktail dress.”

Bach also wore another of his creations to a party the following day. Tolentino said that many of her friends kept asking who made the suit and when she mentioned his name, they thought he was Italian, prompting Bach to say he was her “secret designer from the Philippines.”

He cites Vionnet, Christian Dior, Valentino, Ramon Valera and Joe Salazar as his favorite designers and would love to see Angelina Jolie, Nicole Kidman and Julia Roberts in his creations.

Recognizing Filipino creativity

With the recognition he’s getting and with Filipinos like Monique Lhuillier, Rafe Totengco, Josie Natori, Bea Valdes and Tina Ocampo recognized in the international fashion scene, what can he say about Filipino designers making it in the international scene?

“Filipinos are creative. I’ve been traveling around the world, been to fashion shows abroad. I’ve seen their creations and I can see Filipinos can compete in the international market,” he says.

“I hope that Filipinos will strive more or do anything to penetrate the market. And also I hope the country will support the designers because Filipinos are very creative, very genius when it comes to designing clothes, not only clothes but furniture. Also, I think Filipinos should recognize Filipino creativity.”

Finally for those who dream of making it to the international market, here is what the designer has to say: “Aim for your goal. Don’t surrender, don’t give up and keep updating yourself to fashion. Study hard and find your style. You should be different from the rest.”

From word of mouth to being known as the “secret designer,” Oliver Tolentino has proven that you don’t have to be a popular designer to make it in the international scene. He’s definitely not a secret designer anymore.