Farm to table, heart to heart
In many of the best restaurants, food only tells half the story. The much more delicious narratives sometimes unfold beyond kitchens and commissaries, as in the case of The Fatted Calf in Tagaytay, which recently hosted the region’s food and wine festival.
The backstory: Chef Jay Jay and Rhea SyCip’s restaurant — in its old location in Silang, Cavite — faced a series of dispiriting setbacks shortly after opening in 2019: a volcanic eruption, the pandemic, health scares, an entire restaurant industry put in peril, etc. Adding to their woes, the couple learned that their lease would not be renewed as the landlord needed the property back. Faced with the closure of their beloved restaurant in 2023, Jay Jay considered returning to hotel work, while Rhea focused on their online bakery, Flour Pot Manila, started during the lockdowns.
In a turn of fate, Rhea reached out to Senator Loren Legarda in 2022, which led to an unexpected blessing. Senator Legarda, impressed by the couple’s culinary skills and advocacy for sustainability, offered them her grandmother Carmen Gella Bautista’s ancestral home along the Tagaytay-Nasugbu Highway. She envisioned transforming the space into a farmhouse kitchen using adaptive reuse principles, incorporating old yakal posts, red tiles, and antique woodcarvings. Senator Legarda’s commitment to sustainability was evident as she installed rainwater catchment systems, solar panels, and a material recovery facility.
The senator even mounted paintings she did as a young girl — expressive pastels and charcoals. The couple’s friends were astonished by Legarda’s generosity, but the senator explained her passion for supporting small businesses and sustainable practices. She says, “This way, the advocacy of chefs Rhea and Jay Jay in supporting local communities and promoting the slow food movement may continue.”
It was a dramatically fresh start for chefs Jay Jay and Rhea, but the tale was just unfurling.
Chefs are celebrated, championed and even GOAT-ed for conjuring the most celestial of banquets. But the true heroes for the SyCips are the farmers.
Jay Jay explains, “We want to direct the spotlight to the farmers and their produce. If we get directly from farmers, it would give them more livelihood, more earnings to better provide for their families and, of course, to encourage the younger generation to continue farming. They know the seasons. They know how to cultivate.”
The Fatted Calf sources its farm-to-table ingredients from the Mountain Province, Tarlac, Bulacan, Cavite, and as far as Visayas and Mindanao for seafood supplies.
The SyCips were brainstorming on the festival with colleagues when Senator Loren visited The Fatted Calf. Jay Jay recalls how they presented to the senator the plan and she outright made the commitment to support the festival.
A dream culinary team got their patron in the lawmaker from Antique. The SyCips found their co-players in farmers from Benguet, Mountain Province, General Trias, and Magallanes in Cavite. They also collaborated with Oleo Fats Inc., known for excellent steaks as well as dairy and oil products. Their coffee was Barlig rainforest coffee from farmers in the Mountain Province. For wines, they had AWC, PWX, and Vino Enoteca, and used Just Squeezed for their juices. A major partner and collaborator was Anya Resort. They were also privileged to collaborate with chef Jeramie Go of Pilgrim Davao, with whom they share many advocacies and practices.
Undertakings such as the Tagaytay Food and Wine Festival — with the support of the office of the senator, the Department of Tourism (DOT), Tagaytay Tourism Council, and the Tagaytay LGU — not only celebrate traditional dishes made from fresh, local ingredients but also inspire culinary creativity and innovation among local chefs. The senator explains, “By showcasing the versatility and richness of Filipino ingredients, these events deepen our connection to our culinary heritage and educate the public about sustainable food practices, attracting food enthusiasts eager to support local dining experiences. They are instrumental in preserving our culinary traditions, uplifting local farmers, and reinforcing our agricultural sector, creating a beneficial ripple effect throughout our community.”
The senator understands the value of farm-to-table dining because she has her own farm where she grows and sources her food. “Seeing firsthand where our food comes from has deepened my appreciation for this approach,” she says. “When we embrace farm-to-table dining, we’re not just enjoying fresh, high-quality ingredients; we’re also supporting local farmers and sustainable farming practices. This connection helps our farmers thrive and strengthens our local food systems. It’s about more than just food — it’s about preserving our agricultural heritage and ensuring a vibrant future for our farming communities.”
During the Harvest Dinner by The Fatted Calf X Pilgrim Davao, the guests were treated to creative culinary imaginings with humble yet laudable origins.
Chef Jay Jay created a modern take on “pan de sal at kesong puti.” The bread was toasted like a crouton and rubbed with a little butter. It was topped with Donburi sauce-caramelized red onions and caramelized Benguet cherry tomatoes in muscovado sugar. Kesong puti and milk foam made from carabao’s milk were added, along with dehydrated tomato peel powder, and finished with Kaluga Queen Caviar from Oleo Fats Inc. It was paired with sparkling wine from South Australia.
For the main course, an heirloom rice called chong-ak was used in making arroz meloso (wet rice). Smoked pork from Benguet was incorporated into the rice, topped with a wild mushroom called Bu-o that resembles a European truffle as well as sorrel from a farm in Cavite. The dish was washed down with wine from Rioja, Spain.
The chef amplifies, “We had the honor and privilege of cooking beside chef Jeramie Go and his son, sous chef Noah Go. For their dishes, we highlighted again the byproduct of carabao’s milk, which is paneer, an Indian type of cheese. Also featured, of course, was rabbit from Magallanes, Cavite.” The finishing touches were peach melba and chocolate hummus.
According to the senator, judging from the quickly emptied plates and the peppering of compliments to the chefs, the event at The Fatted Calf was rated fresh by guests.
“Witnessing the positive impact of our efforts — whether at events like the Tagaytay Food & Wine Festival or through legislative initiatives — reaffirms my commitment to ensuring the well-being of Filipinos now and for generations to come,” concludes Senator Legarda. “My motivation simply comes from my love for our environment and the diverse cultures that define us. Protecting these treasures is essential not only for our cultural identity but also for our prosperity as a nation.”
Chefs Jay Jay and Rhea would wholeheartedly agree. Jay Jay shares the reaction of their carabao milk farmer during the festival weekend. “Kuya Sam got very emotional (as to how) we were able to produce food in a different way using his products, showing him that there is more to just cheese and carabao’s milk. This is something that we wish to pursue and that it will continue to give hope to our farmers.”
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The Fatted Calf is located along the Tagaytay-Nasugbu Highway in Barangay Neogan, Tagaytay City. Reservations for breakfast, lunch, and dinner are accepted. Call or SMS 0977-6437477 or 0917-7892352, or send a direct message on Instagram @thefattedcalf_ph. Follow The Fatted Calf PH on social media.
