BANGKOK — At the recent opening of the immersive show Gucci Visions, fans were lining up to get a glimpse of their favorite stars, which included the Philippines’ Liza Soberano and James Reid, all dressed in the Italian house’s signature fineries.
At the exhibit, the first in Southeast Asia after successful debuts in Florence and Tokyo, guests were able to see that there was much more to what they were wearing — a rich, 103-year legacy, in fact, of unparalleled ingenuity, craftsmanship and virtuosity of imagination that rebounds through time, articulating an ever-evolving and enduring vision.
Add to that a spirit of adventure that started it all when Guccio Gucci’s travels in 1897 led him to London, where he ended up working as a porter at The Savoy, one of the most luxurious hotels. There the teenager found himself at the heart of international high society, observing firsthand the codes and customs of this rarefied culture. He came to understand what the jet-set expected from the finest luggage and how the form of these functional pieces was of utmost importance, acting as a potent signifier of taste and status.
The London experience was life-changing, broadening his horizons and giving him a visionary ambition that he took with him as he returned to his native Florence, where he began to hone his craftsmanship and way with leather, setting the foundation and raison d’être for the House that would bear his name: “Creating the most elegant and ingeniously designed luggage, brought to life by skilled local artisans using the very highest quality materials.” The first Gucci boutique opened in 1921 on Via della Vigna Nuova.
By the 1930s, in response to the lack of fine leathers in Italy at that time, Gucci innovated with the Diamante canvas luggage, distinguished by a diamond motif and made of a specially woven hemp highly regarded for its durability. It became one of the first signature elements of the house and the precursor of the GG monogram.
The 1940s ushered in another icon through bamboo, molded into a handle crowning a saddle-shaped leather handbag in 1947. It exemplifies a non-traditional approach to craftsmanship and an expression of artisanal flair, coming into play after many rounds of experimentation that was ignited by Vasco Gucci, Guccio’s fifth son, who was inspired by walking sticks.
Then as now, artisans forge bamboo stalks over an open flame into a distinctly curved handle with a glossy patina, each piece with its own hue and contour. The new bag easily became a fixture among Hollywood stars and established itself as a House signature that was reinterpreted through the decades.
The bamboo detail has also been reimagined in various contexts, from belt buckles and loafer accents to statement heels. The Bamboo 1947 bag has remained the most famous and coveted iteration, however, with the exhibit dedicating a whole room to it with different interpretations, from a charming raffia version in the 1950s and early ’60s Leonardo and Baladera prints to a glitzy red patent leather one from 2024.
Taking a cue from its clientele who were fascinated with horseback riding, the House adopted equestrian accoutrements as decorative motifs, which appeared in the highly successful horse-bit loafer in 1953. The double ring-and-bar hardware later appeared on saddle-stitched bags and belts, among others. The ’50s also saw the arrival of the Web stripe, a green and red reinterpretation of the strap that holds a saddle in place.
As Gucci expanded across the globe in the 1960s, emblematic designs emerged, like the 1961 Jackie named after Jackie Kennedy. Originally called the G1244 bag and later the Constance, it was renamed after the former US First Lady after she was seen using it all the time in different versions.
The 1960s gave birth to another Gucci icon, the Flora motif designed by Vittorio Accornero de Testa in 1966 for a collection of scarves. An interactive room with a kaleidoscope of flora is one of the popular sections of the show, where the scarves as well as bags feature the motif that defined the decade of flower power. The GG monogram was also introduced later in the decade, as an homage to the House’s founder.
Lifestyle became paramount in the 1970s and ’80s as the House expanded its line of lifestyle objects that it began producing many years prior. Alongside custom automobiles made in collaboration with various car manufacturers, there were home accessories, cards and boardgames, tennis accessories, umbrellas and dog carriers.
Tom Ford’s appointment in 1994 as creative director marked the beginning of an era when designers were called upon to bring their unique perspectives to the brand. Ford’s bold and provocative aesthetic that combined overt sexuality with sleek modernity catapulted Gucci to the forefront of fashion, reinventing it for a new generation.
Frida Giannini took over in 2006, concentrating on the brand’s Italian craftsmanship and reimagining its archival iconography.
A new tone was set by Alessandro Michele in 2015, both in the House and across the industry, embracing inclusivity and self-expression while reclaiming the brand’s creative authority.
Sabato de Sarno, appointed in 2023, continues the legacy of mirroring and defining the times.
A room with custom-made gowns worn by stars for the red carpet and another with star creations by designers through the years complete the world of Gucci Visions, reflecting how over a century after Guccio first set out on his travels, Gucci remains on a never-ending creative journey its founder initiated.
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Gucci Visions is ongoing until July 21 at EM Glass, G/F EM Tower, EMSphere Shopping Center. A reservation has to be made online at https://www.gucci.com/th/en_gb/st/capsule/gucci-visions-bangkok. In the Philippines, Gucci shops are located in Greenbelt 4 Makati, Shangri-La Plaza, Solaire Resort and NuStar Cebu.
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