Wining, dining, Darleng
September 21, 2006 | 12:00am
I am often asked why I am always with my Darleng. Is it me who tags along with her on her lakad or the other way around?
Well, to be honest, they’re mostly my lakad. I am the more sociable and peripatetic one. My Darleng often complains that my being outgoing (always going out, she says) could very well be grounds for divorce among most couples. For given the choice, she would never leave the house, and, in particular, the bed. (She’s got Velcro on her back, I say.) I have never seen anyone who can do so many tasks while lying down. And if she could only strap me to bed next to her, I know she would.
But with Darleng in the car, the long traveling time from Angeles to Manila and back always seems much more bearable. And with my bad back, sitting down long is literally a pain in the butt. It is my Darleng’s nonstop chattering that entertains me on the road, especially when the traffic becomes unbearable (though admittedly, at times, how I wish I could just click "mute" – he, he, he). And her natural character of always seeing the bright side of things really comes in handy. That is a big contrast to my emotional and impulsive character. In other words, she cools me down when I am about to overheat.
So, I will be honest again. I beg her to accompany me each time I go to Manila. And in exchange for disturbing her peace and quiet at home, I must take her to a movie or sit down for churros con chocolate at Dulcinea or to sip a small cup of Max Brenner hot spicy chocolate espresso. Thank God she is easy to please and far from the devil who wears Prada. (Which reminds me, I promised to take her to see this movie.)
Last week, we had a media invitation to a "Night of Wines and Fine Dining" at the Tivoli of the Mandarin Oriental, Manila. I knew I would have to coerce her, and even while I was reading my e-mail invite from the hotel PR Charisse Chiudian, I was already thinking of what promises I would have to make for her to say yes. To my surprise, she wanted to go and said yes even before I finished reading the invite to her.
"Just make sure, you either get a driver or a room for the night," was her only demand. I could not get a driver, and fortunately the lucky stars were on my side and, voila, we had a room.
The event aims to attract wine and food lovers to a splendid experience. Special guest was Australian senior winemaker Craig Stanborough, who brought in the award-winning Australian Grant Burge wines, while 25-year-old Swiss sous chef Stefan Trepp prepared all the dishes. Despite his young age and boyish looks, Stefan has worked for many years in Dubai, Switzerland, and California, and has won many professional cooking competitions in many countries.
Together, they meticulously paired the wine and the dishes for us to fully enjoy the evening.
While waiting for the first dish to arrive, Darleng munched two hot salt stick breads, her favorite at The Tivoli. I had to stop her because she would not have room for the promising seven-course dinner. The first wine was a Riesling, the Grant Burge Thorn Eden Valley Reisling 2005, which we drank with pan-fried potato terrine, beautifully served on individual small forks.
The Riesling was so smooth to the throat and the terrine so delicate to the taste. One sip and she asked me in a whisper: "Why are the wines that you buy not as smooth as this one?"
"Oh, my Darleng is beginning to have a more expensive palate," I thought and simply shrugged my shoulders, avoiding an answer.
Our lady friend next to her was raving about the potato terrine. But not Darleng, who has never been a potato person.
Then came the confit chicken leg and foie gras terrine. The name alone sounds very interesting and rich with potential for any gourmet. It was a four-colored terrine served on white rectangular plate with dabs of multi-colored sauces on the sides. In between the layers of the terrine was mango praline giving it a nice yellow touch.
"It looks like a painting," she said, and refused to dig in till I took a photo of it.
Next was a lobster crème bruleé. It was so thick it was almost like mouse than bisque. Interestingly, it had a sweet wine and vanilla sorbet in the middle, adding a pleasant contrast of temperature and texture to it. I had to pass on this one because of my allergy to crustaceans. This time, we had a red wine, the Grant Burge Eden Valley & Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2004. Instinctively, Darleng, pretending to be a wine connoisseur, took a sniff and as usual could not smell anything distinct.
The knowledgeable lady next to her immediately said, "It smells of oak."
Again Darleng sniffed and again she smelled no oak.
Craig took one sniff and asked, "Can you smell oak?"
Impressed, Mary Ann looked at the lady next to her.
A rich and creamy cepe mushroom ravioli with truffled celery was next. I thought she will not like this because, unlike me, she is never into white cream sauces, but she liked it and even asked me if I could cook exactly the same for her coming birthday party.
"But like this one, use only fresh pasta," she demanded.
Together with the ravioli, we sipped Grant Burge Cameron Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, which had a full-bodied smell (according to her, but then I guess I cannot really trust her amateur wine-tasting skills), but a mild nice taste.
And now, it was time to clear our palates, and we were both happy to be served carrot ginger sorbet. For the main course, we had nice, tender, pink roast venison loin medallions with creamed parsnips and green pea, sage foam. And we drank a wine with the most interesting name, The Holy Trinity Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2002.
"Why the name?" asked a lady.
"Because we put together three grape varieties in this wine," said Craig.
Then we had crispy fried goat cheese with tomato basil salsa and another Shiraz, the Grant Burge Filsell, Shiraz 2003. That was the last course before the dessert. I looked at Darleng’s plate, and it was clean, down to the last morsel.
"Where do you put it all?" I asked, looking at her hundred-pound frame in a snug-fitting dress.
"Shhh. Would you believe I am wearing a girdle this time and that is why I am turning blue on my earlobes," she said.
I looked at the menu, and I knew she would never pass on the next one, a warm chocolate fondant with white chocolate ice cream. This one you have to eat fast because the ice cream next to the hot chocolate would melt. But it was so deliciously rich, so it was not a problem for all of us.
My choco-lover wife was still eyeing the four pralines served on a mini plate.
"Will they slap my wrist if I put two in my bag?" she asked.
"No, but your girdle will burst open," I said.
By now my head was starting to go into a nice spin. I am not sure if it was from the wine or from all the food. But my near malfunctioning brain was sending me a message that I must now go to bed. Of all the wines, I liked the Riesling best. She insisted on the Holy Trinity. I was too sleepy to argue. Plus wine makes me sleepy, while wine makes her more chatty. So, I found it best to drop the issue.
"This is a big treat for all food and wine lovers," I said expecting us to close in agreement.
"Why do they have to be wine and food lovers? Even amateurs and great pretenders can appreciate this. And why not simply for all lovers?" asked my ever romantic Darleng.
Well, didn’t I tell you we seldom ever agree?
Come to The Tivoli every last Friday of the month from 6:30 to 9:30 p.m. and treat yourselves to hours of sipping unlimited refills of exquisite wine and savoring fine cuisine in a relaxed yet sophisticated ambiance for P2,300+++ per person. The seven-course menu and featured wines change monthly. Connoisseurs with discerning taste will be pleased while the amateurs can learn the intricacies of wine making.
Well, to be honest, they’re mostly my lakad. I am the more sociable and peripatetic one. My Darleng often complains that my being outgoing (always going out, she says) could very well be grounds for divorce among most couples. For given the choice, she would never leave the house, and, in particular, the bed. (She’s got Velcro on her back, I say.) I have never seen anyone who can do so many tasks while lying down. And if she could only strap me to bed next to her, I know she would.
But with Darleng in the car, the long traveling time from Angeles to Manila and back always seems much more bearable. And with my bad back, sitting down long is literally a pain in the butt. It is my Darleng’s nonstop chattering that entertains me on the road, especially when the traffic becomes unbearable (though admittedly, at times, how I wish I could just click "mute" – he, he, he). And her natural character of always seeing the bright side of things really comes in handy. That is a big contrast to my emotional and impulsive character. In other words, she cools me down when I am about to overheat.
So, I will be honest again. I beg her to accompany me each time I go to Manila. And in exchange for disturbing her peace and quiet at home, I must take her to a movie or sit down for churros con chocolate at Dulcinea or to sip a small cup of Max Brenner hot spicy chocolate espresso. Thank God she is easy to please and far from the devil who wears Prada. (Which reminds me, I promised to take her to see this movie.)
Last week, we had a media invitation to a "Night of Wines and Fine Dining" at the Tivoli of the Mandarin Oriental, Manila. I knew I would have to coerce her, and even while I was reading my e-mail invite from the hotel PR Charisse Chiudian, I was already thinking of what promises I would have to make for her to say yes. To my surprise, she wanted to go and said yes even before I finished reading the invite to her.
"Just make sure, you either get a driver or a room for the night," was her only demand. I could not get a driver, and fortunately the lucky stars were on my side and, voila, we had a room.
The event aims to attract wine and food lovers to a splendid experience. Special guest was Australian senior winemaker Craig Stanborough, who brought in the award-winning Australian Grant Burge wines, while 25-year-old Swiss sous chef Stefan Trepp prepared all the dishes. Despite his young age and boyish looks, Stefan has worked for many years in Dubai, Switzerland, and California, and has won many professional cooking competitions in many countries.
Together, they meticulously paired the wine and the dishes for us to fully enjoy the evening.
While waiting for the first dish to arrive, Darleng munched two hot salt stick breads, her favorite at The Tivoli. I had to stop her because she would not have room for the promising seven-course dinner. The first wine was a Riesling, the Grant Burge Thorn Eden Valley Reisling 2005, which we drank with pan-fried potato terrine, beautifully served on individual small forks.
The Riesling was so smooth to the throat and the terrine so delicate to the taste. One sip and she asked me in a whisper: "Why are the wines that you buy not as smooth as this one?"
"Oh, my Darleng is beginning to have a more expensive palate," I thought and simply shrugged my shoulders, avoiding an answer.
Our lady friend next to her was raving about the potato terrine. But not Darleng, who has never been a potato person.
Then came the confit chicken leg and foie gras terrine. The name alone sounds very interesting and rich with potential for any gourmet. It was a four-colored terrine served on white rectangular plate with dabs of multi-colored sauces on the sides. In between the layers of the terrine was mango praline giving it a nice yellow touch.
"It looks like a painting," she said, and refused to dig in till I took a photo of it.
Next was a lobster crème bruleé. It was so thick it was almost like mouse than bisque. Interestingly, it had a sweet wine and vanilla sorbet in the middle, adding a pleasant contrast of temperature and texture to it. I had to pass on this one because of my allergy to crustaceans. This time, we had a red wine, the Grant Burge Eden Valley & Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2004. Instinctively, Darleng, pretending to be a wine connoisseur, took a sniff and as usual could not smell anything distinct.
The knowledgeable lady next to her immediately said, "It smells of oak."
Again Darleng sniffed and again she smelled no oak.
Craig took one sniff and asked, "Can you smell oak?"
Impressed, Mary Ann looked at the lady next to her.
A rich and creamy cepe mushroom ravioli with truffled celery was next. I thought she will not like this because, unlike me, she is never into white cream sauces, but she liked it and even asked me if I could cook exactly the same for her coming birthday party.
"But like this one, use only fresh pasta," she demanded.
Together with the ravioli, we sipped Grant Burge Cameron Vale Cabernet Sauvignon 2003, which had a full-bodied smell (according to her, but then I guess I cannot really trust her amateur wine-tasting skills), but a mild nice taste.
And now, it was time to clear our palates, and we were both happy to be served carrot ginger sorbet. For the main course, we had nice, tender, pink roast venison loin medallions with creamed parsnips and green pea, sage foam. And we drank a wine with the most interesting name, The Holy Trinity Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2002.
"Why the name?" asked a lady.
"Because we put together three grape varieties in this wine," said Craig.
Then we had crispy fried goat cheese with tomato basil salsa and another Shiraz, the Grant Burge Filsell, Shiraz 2003. That was the last course before the dessert. I looked at Darleng’s plate, and it was clean, down to the last morsel.
"Where do you put it all?" I asked, looking at her hundred-pound frame in a snug-fitting dress.
"Shhh. Would you believe I am wearing a girdle this time and that is why I am turning blue on my earlobes," she said.
I looked at the menu, and I knew she would never pass on the next one, a warm chocolate fondant with white chocolate ice cream. This one you have to eat fast because the ice cream next to the hot chocolate would melt. But it was so deliciously rich, so it was not a problem for all of us.
My choco-lover wife was still eyeing the four pralines served on a mini plate.
"Will they slap my wrist if I put two in my bag?" she asked.
"No, but your girdle will burst open," I said.
By now my head was starting to go into a nice spin. I am not sure if it was from the wine or from all the food. But my near malfunctioning brain was sending me a message that I must now go to bed. Of all the wines, I liked the Riesling best. She insisted on the Holy Trinity. I was too sleepy to argue. Plus wine makes me sleepy, while wine makes her more chatty. So, I found it best to drop the issue.
"This is a big treat for all food and wine lovers," I said expecting us to close in agreement.
"Why do they have to be wine and food lovers? Even amateurs and great pretenders can appreciate this. And why not simply for all lovers?" asked my ever romantic Darleng.
Well, didn’t I tell you we seldom ever agree?
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